Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[jonathanS]

It still is, I use it all the time.

Off topic, do you have thoughts on a cashmere-silk lining for an overcoat? I have a fabric length idk what to do with (it’s 50/50, I believe). Seems pretty lightweight.

 

[David Reeves]

Off topic, do you have thoughts on a cashmere-silk lining for an overcoat? I have a fabric length idk what to do with (it’s 50/50, I believe). Seems pretty lightweight.

Sounds like an odd one, perhaps warm but the durability would worry me.

 

[jonathanS]

Sounds like an odd one, perhaps warm but the durability would worry me.

So maybe not, haha. Maybe stick to a normal lining or silk if I wanted something more elevated.

 

[David Reeves]

So maybe not, haha. Maybe stick to a normal lining or silk if I wanted something more elevated.

I use the Bernstein silk a lot, I was always told not to use silk linings in a bespoke suit because it wears out, I have produced high 100s over the past 7 years and had no complaints

 

[Marshak]

Well said. Here, a couple of new commissions are funded (small adjustments, and I get them in a few days).

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Don't want to be nasty but your tailoring is problematic as the wokes would say.

 

[circumspice]

So maybe not, haha. Maybe stick to a normal lining or silk if I wanted something more elevated.

What is the handle on the cashmere-silk? All the wool-silk squares/scarves I have handled are the opposite of what you want for lining = wet, slutty. Life is too damn short for a coat that is a chore to put on.

 

[jonathanS]

Don't want to be nasty but your tailoring is problematic as the wokes would say.

You’re not the first person to mention it.

What is the handle on the cashmere-silk? All the wool-silk squares/scarves I have handled are the opposite of what you want for lining = wet, slutty. Life is too damn short for a coat that is a chore to put on.

It’s not chalky / dry. Hard to describe. Maybe I’ll bring it to the tailor and let him decide.

It’s not as smooth as bemberg or 100% silk.

 

[bernoulli]

Don't want to be nasty but your tailoring is problematic as the wokes would say.

Would you care to elaborate?

 

[David Reeves]

Don't want to be nasty but your tailoring is problematic as the wokes would say.

That is nasty! Its almost good, needs a bit more attention or a good alteration tailor.

 

[CLH03]

Finalized product of this bespoke ulster coat from W&S. Loving fit after wearing it all day. The fabric is on the lighter side for coating but it is spongy and drapes well. Excited to get some good uses out it for the coming winter!

Looks great! Love that fabric

 

[The Chai]

Was that from the 1st edition of Harrison's Sea Shell book, from around 2016-7? I remember people started complaining about its linen-mohairs soon after the book hit the market, although I think those complaints were more about the fabric peeling, or something like that...I now see the book's 2nd edition has seemingly pared it down to 55/45 poly-linen blends only. The poly cuts down on the wrinkles and repels moisture, the linen expels the moisture and makes the cloth breathe. Sounds worth a try for a daytime suiting.

Agree with D. Reeves that linen with some silk is a good option for hot-weather black tie.

I do not know but I bought the length circa 2020/2021 from a retailer. It just reminded me of bad polyester that wrinkled alot. It looked very plasticky aka poor mans sanitation worker handle. I actually prefer their poly-linen blend, not that I have tried it. But I have had odd summer trousers made out of viscose/linen which I do like.

 

[jonathanS]

That is nasty! Its almost good, needs a bit more attention or a good alteration tailor.

I’m glad it wasn’t just me. I thought maybe I was missing something.

 

[bernoulli]

I don't mind the snark but would prefer direct criticism, especially regarding the tailoring. Stylistic details? I will mostly ignore those, as it seems I already know who prefers more conservative details and those who are more adventurous.

 

[Marshak]

Would you care to elaborate?

I'll just talk about the linen suit (your James Bond vilain jacket is from another universe), which is fairly representative of the recurring stylistic errors in your suits: buttoning point way too high, odd positioning of your super curved patch pockets and super-high lapels that spill over the back. It breaks the balance of the jacket. The balance of the pants, on the other hand, looks good. A three-piece in linen seems like an odd idea to me, but that's artistic license, so okay.

No offense.

 

[The Chai]

I use the Bernstein silk a lot, I was always told not to use silk linings in a bespoke suit because it wears out, I have produced high 100s over the past 7 years and had no complaints

Best lining I had was some silk lining used to line fur coats. Thick and bulletproof! Not to mention lux.