Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[bourbonbasted]

Kicked over to Napoli for a forward fitting of the LP seersucker.

Made some tweaks to the standard Pastena silhouette -- lowered the gorge and chest pocket, extended the shoulder and minimized padding, increased the length and swept the skirt a bit. Antonio is also nipping the waist slightly and giving me a tad more breathing room through the shoulders and chest, but I'm digging the progress.

The LP seersucker is also an absurd cloth. Feels like I'm wearing a t-shirt and shorts.

 

[Marshak]

Kicked over to Napoli for a forward fitting of the LP seersucker.

Made some tweaks to the standard Pastena silhouette -- lowered the gorge and chest pocket, extended the shoulder and minimized padding, increased the length and swept the skirt a bit. Antonio is also nipping the waist slightly and giving me a tad more breathing room through the shoulders and chest, but I'm digging the progress.

The LP seersucker is also an absurd cloth. Feels like I'm wearing a t-shirt and shorts.

View attachment 2001183

Looks good!

 

[CLH03]

What would you all consider to be a good alternate hopsack blazer color to navy? Have a navy one that I absolutely love, and want to get something similar that sort of works with everything (within reason, of course.) Grey? Brown?

 

[symphvaria]

What would you all consider to be a good alternate hopsack blazer color to navy? Have a navy one that I absolutely love, and want to get something similar that sort of works with everything (within reason, of course.) Grey? Brown?

Gray blazers look like orphaned suit jackets, in my experience. On the other hand, I really love the look of chocolate brown for a less austere and grave looking suit/jacket that’s still appropriate for evening hours.

 

[xizenta]

How are people feeling about tuxedo trousers without an outseam stripe these days?

I ordered a pair from my tailor to wear with some of my cream dinner jackets and received them with no satin stripe. They do have a satin waistband. I did not specify that I wanted a stripe. Kind of wondering whether any tailor could reasonably assume that tuxedo trousers would be preferred without an outseam stripe. I have seen that trend on some fast-fashion tuxes and dislike it.

 

[gimpwiz]

I'm not super into a satin waistband, but the satin stripe down the leg seems standard. I would guess your guy forgot tbh.

 

[comrade]

What would you all consider to be a good alternate hopsack blazer color to navy? Have a navy one that I absolutely love, and want to get something similar that sort of works with everything (within reason, of course.) Grey? Brown?

Maroon, dark green.

 

[gimpwiz]

What would you all consider to be a good alternate hopsack blazer color to navy? Have a navy one that I absolutely love, and want to get something similar that sort of works with everything (within reason, of course.) Grey? Brown?

Gray blazers look like orphaned suit jackets, in my experience. On the other hand, I really love the look of chocolate brown for a less austere and grave looking suit/jacket that’s still appropriate for evening hours.

Navy is the obvious color for the blazer, but not the only one. Other solid-color no-pattern jackets I like are: ivory, sand, some olives, some ochres and mustards, and yeah some browns. That pink sport coat thread we have here has shown a number of hopsacks in various pinks and pink-adjacents, like coral, that can look pretty great.

Also, hopsack can be ... more, or less, obvious. The more obvious it is, the more texture it has, the easier it is to use for a solid-color blazer. Subtle is harder, because the closer it is to a smooth wool, the more it looks like a suit jacket. If that makes sense. Same with linen, some things work just fine in linen but can be odd in a smooth worsted wool.

 

[CLH03]

Navy is the obvious color for the blazer, but not the only one. Other solid-color no-pattern jackets I like are: ivory, sand, some olives, some ochres and mustards, and yeah some browns. That pink sport coat thread we have here has shown a number of hopsacks in various pinks and pink-adjacents, like coral, that can look pretty great.

Also, hopsack can be ... more, or less, obvious. The more obvious it is, the more texture it has, the easier it is to use for a solid-color blazer. Subtle is harder, because the closer it is to a smooth wool, the more it looks like a suit jacket. If that makes sense. Same with linen, some things work just fine in linen but can be odd in a smooth worsted wool.

Yup, makes sense. If it was logical to just own 5 blazers, I would, however, I’m not a very minimalistic person, and I like to switch things up. I’ve got my eye on a couple of different colors, so I’ll go through the rest of my closet and see what works best.

 

[hpreston]

What would you all consider to be a good alternate hopsack blazer color to navy? Have a navy one that I absolutely love, and want to get something similar that sort of works with everything (within reason, of course.) Grey? Brown?

Gray blazers look like orphaned suit jackets, in my experience. On the other hand, I really love the look of chocolate brown for a less austere and grave looking suit/jacket that’s still appropriate for evening hours.

Green or brown

 

[Crispyj]

This is the ongoing bespoke thread, not the unfunded liabilities (cloth discussion) thread.

 

[The Chai]

How are people feeling about tuxedo trousers without an outseam stripe these days?

I ordered a pair from my tailor to wear with some of my cream dinner jackets and received them with no satin stripe. They do have a satin waistband. I did not specify that I wanted a stripe. Kind of wondering whether any tailor could reasonably assume that tuxedo trousers would be preferred without an outseam stripe. I have seen that trend on some fast-fashion tuxes and dislike it.

I think it is "appropriate" if you are wearing it as an odd trouser with a dinner jacket. Not as part of a dinner suit. Good thing tacking on a silk stripe/braid is not that difficult. Your tailor should be able to do it.

 

[lordsuperb]

Cross post from the Cloth Thread:

Has anyone had any items made up in Harrison's Sea Shell? If so, what are your thoughts on it wears/has held up?

Thinking of using it for some summer trousers with I Sarti on their next set of trunk shows. I particularly like the marled effect that occurs in the greys...

 

[The Chai]

Navy is the obvious color for the blazer, but not the only one. Other solid-color no-pattern jackets I like are: ivory, sand, some olives, some ochres and mustards, and yeah some browns. That pink sport coat thread we have here has shown a number of hopsacks in various pinks and pink-adjacents, like coral, that can look pretty great.

Also, hopsack can be ... more, or less, obvious. The more obvious it is, the more texture it has, the easier it is to use for a solid-color blazer. Subtle is harder, because the closer it is to a smooth wool, the more it looks like a suit jacket. If that makes sense. Same with linen, some things work just fine in linen but can be odd in a smooth worsted wool.

I always felt most plain grey linens are weird.

 

[gimpwiz]

I agree, I didn't include it in my solid-color list I love linen in ivory, sand, and it's not bad as tan, but I'm not really into it for any sort of dove, light gray, mid gray ... dark gray ... solids. It never feels right to me for some reason.