Non-Rule "Rules"

[Manton]



It was an 80's cliche to wear a white collar and cuffs, blue shirt, yellow tie for the "Power Look".

FTFY

 

[in stitches]



It was an 80's cliche to wear a white collar and cuffs, blue shirt, red tie for the "Power Look".

why do you hate the winchester collar? that is whats called right?

 

[Gus]



why do you hate the winchester collar? that is whats called right?

It looked sharp when worn properly (a classic suit), but when everyone started wearing it to large business gatherings, like trade shows, with ill fitting blue blazers, baggy gray pants and spotted ties it was time to move on.....

 

[JPHardy]

I always think they look great in the RL ads, but I know it real life I would hate it.

 

[sugarbutch]

That's because they're hateful.

 

[JPHardy]

I just re checked the RLPL ads. I would like to retract my previous statement.

 

[RJman]

It was an 80's cliche to wear a white collar and cuffs, blue shirt, yellow tie and suspenders (American English), ideally red, for the "Power Look".

FTFY

FTFYFY.

I love you, man. I mean it.

My non-rule rules:

Only linen handkerchiefs or RJ cat pocket squares.

Try to wear at least one vintage item each day.

Side adjusters on all trousers, no belts or braces.

Never buy shoes you can't try on.

Cashmere rollnecks in winter to avoid fussing with scarves.

If you are concerned about matching your watchstrap, belt, briefcase and shoe leather, you have too much time on your hands.

If you are concerned about matching all your metals, you are a moron.

Lined robes a la Sulka or Charvet are wonderful in concept but clammy and slithery to put on.

Match socks to trousers or to my fancy. Pantherella sized Sea Island cotton socks (properly sized in increments of your exact shoe size plus 3), available from Woods of Shropshire or Tricker's in London, are a favorite, or the rainbow of colors of OTC cotton or cashmere socks from Charvet. Gallo has a half-life like that of one of those elements they create in a lab.

Only flexible plastic collar stays (thanks Gavin) or none (thanks to a canny shirtcutter). Brass ones are awful, bone ones snap...

No cuffs on trousers, ever -- that's not a rule I'd impose on others, but it's a rule I live by.

No monograms, anywhere, on anything, unless you are afraid of forgetting your initials.

No visible logos or identifiable gimmicks, except for the Hermes Quentin (not the ******* H, Google it) belt buckle (yeah, I know I said no belt above, but I still wear a lot of RTW trousers) or the Hermes clou de selle cufflinks.

Edward Green pwns JLP RTW. Every time.

Steel toe plates on all shoes. RTW, bespoke, whatever.

Personal experience is always better than what you read on the internet.

 

[DocHolliday]

i agree with nearly all those, RJ. Good to see you back.

 

[oldog/oldtrix]



Hardy: those jackets have a windowpane. The prohibition is SOLID gray odd jackets.

The exception that proves ... nothing.

 

[Manton]

Steeeeeee-rike threeeeee!

 

[hendrix]

the good taste thread reminded me that I will never ever wear a rep tie.

 

[TheFoo]



Only linen handkerchiefs or RJ cat pocket squares.

This surprises me. No unicorns or hunting scenes?

Cashmere rollnecks in winter to avoid fussing with scarves.

Interesting strategy--but I like wearing scarves. I would have thought you'd also like to take advantage when the weather gets cold.

No monograms, anywhere, on anything, unless you are afraid of forgetting your initials.

You might also be incredibly vain about how awesome it is to be Foo and not someone else.

Edward Green pwns JLP RTW. Every time.

This can't be a legitimate opinion because it is factually wrong. No standard EG stands up to the Philip II.

Steeeeeee-rike threeeeee!

Is it really striking out when you aren't trying to hit the ball?

 

[RJman]

@doc: I will be back as long as I keep drinking tonight. Rangpur + Fever Tree.

Only linen handkerchiefs or RJ cat pocket squares.

This surprises me. No unicorns or hunting scenes?

I still have those PSs and am not getting rid of them, but am not wearing them. Might even get rid of that Rubinacci PS I groupthought.

Cashmere rollnecks in winter to avoid fussing with scarves.

Interesting strategy--but I like wearing scarves. I would have thought you'd also like to take advantage when the weather gets cold.

I like and still wear the cashmere-silk neckerchieves that RSS and I have poasted about elsewhere, but I find myself leaving the Begg aside for my turtlenecks when it gets really cold.

No monograms, anywhere, on anything, unless you are afraid of forgetting your initials.

You might also be incredibly vain about how awesome it is to be Foo and not someone else.

"RJman est un autre." -- Rjmbaud.

Edward Green pwns JLP RTW. Every time.

This can't be a legitimate opinion because it is factually wrong. No standard EG stands up to the Philip II.

These are subjective rules. But EG does the welt better than JLP and doesn't have their "failed attempt at Berluti" design esthetic.

Some other non-rule rules:

You should spend as much on your shoes as on your suit. Not to have the flashiest name, but to get the right size and width in a last that fits you from a quality shoemaker in shoes that you can try on before you buy.

Blazers suck, although I happen to own the Manolo-prescribed two; I tihnk I've only worn mine over the last four years when I was cold in my office (used to keep one there).

 

[james_timothy]



Try to wear at least one vintage item each day..

Now there's a rule to live by....

 

[edmorel]

Of the high end British RTW guys, Lobb has, hands down, the ugliest collection. Some of those shoes are uglier than what Kenneth Cole does.