Neeraj Joshi
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View attachment 1669869I know that there has been talk about this before, but when I started my sartorial journey, I've started to notice a lot of things that should have been easy to pick up, but I guess I was too distracted with the latest "fashion trends", a few years ago, to even notice the obvious. This all started when I was trying on my suit that I purchased years ago from Suit supply. I haven't worn this suit in a very long time and when I put it on for the first time since I started my sartorial journey, I noticed so many things that were 100% off about the jacket, but the one thing that I did not like was the low rise from my trousers. Ever since the 1990s, the trend for low rise trousers has become a staple in the fashion industry, with celebrities, and with almost every single RTW clothing brand.
When I tried them on, the first thing I realized was that they were absolutely uncomfortable. I found it difficult to sit and be comfortable at the same time. I felt so much pressure on my waist and it was so tight around my butt as well. The worst feeling was that it was absolutely tight around my gentleman's area. I also could feel the stitches on the seam stretching every time I sat down. It was the most uncomfortable experience in my life. Then I started thinking, why are they so popular if they're so uncomfortable to begin with.
The low rise trouser trend was started in the 1990's with Alexander McQueen. Normally when you create a trend, in the world of fashion, trends don't stay for long. Unfortunately, this one did. Britney Spears popularized this trend during her tour in the 90's and every girl that I knew growing up in the 90's wore low rise. I want to say around the mid 2000's, this trend started to make its way to menswear, (if someone knows the exact timeline, please let me know). It started appearing on men's jeans, chinos, and dress trousers. I can understand that it's a trend and you have to do what it takes to make money. I can also understand that it costs less to produce, but why keep making this the only way to dress. Who decided that this is the way that everyone should dress.
Low rise trousers should have never been created in the first place. It's like a disease that will never go away unless the "fashion industry" says it's no longer a trend. Low rise trousers put stress on the waist, make your torso appear longer, they take the life out of your gentleman's area, it doesn't do wonders for your gut nor your love handles, and they are absolutely unappealing (picture of George Clooney at the Met Galla wearing low rise trousers). I am so tried of seeing this trend everywhere, it needs to stop ASAP.
A good tailor would measure the front rise( or crotch if you will) as well back rise, confirm your style, put the two together, and work on the length, high or low. Since we are in the business I can tell you, and this might surprise you, that low rise works for both, men who have abs to show off as well those with a large belly. In fact, many men with a large tummy hanging in the front prefer a low rise in the front and a higher back rise... ergonomically it works the best for them, & I can tell you that with experience.
Of course, this all holds when you get your stuff bespoke. In the ready-to-wear scenario or a Made to Measure case (you mentioned Suit Supply), you have to pick what's available. And since every brand has its own design sensibility & core customer's need in mind, Suit Supply might not be your brand. Some like iOS and many swear by Android, to each its own...