Neckties: A Discussion Thread

[sugarbutch]

Nah. Pure iGent. Look at that unstructured shoulder.

 

[Sam Hober]



David I agree. I'm just not sure what you mean specifically about sewing, i.e. where...The point where the rolling stops? I think it is sewn there just poorly done, as if the maker said to himself, no one will look here so let me be done with it. The moment one looks one can see the difference from other properly made ties even those from Drakes.

If you wouldn't mind clarifying...really appreciate your input into this thread.

Tweedy Prof,

Think of the sewing in two ways to clean up loose threads and to put the fabric back in place.

To clean up just make small stitches to make the threads look better and stay where you want them.

Then sew as needed to put the fabric where you want it.

 

[raindog]

Here come the latest additions to my tie collection. Since I remember having been reprimanded for posting nice pictures, this one is ugly as hell:



Left to right:
-René Chagal (France), vintage from the 1990s
-René Chagal (France), vintage from the 1990s
-Pineda Covalin (Mexico), modern, made for the Mexican Breast Cancer Society
-André Claude Canova (France), vintage from the 1990s, made for Pol Roger (famous Maison de Champagne)
-M. de Villandry (France), vintage from the 1990s

René Chagal, while silk, are of rather poor quality. Pineda Covalin is acceptable, André Clause Canova and M. de Villandry are top notch.

 

[krakatoa]

The Villandry is still quite contemporary

 

[raindog]

Well, I think all of them are quite timeless, really. Of course such big patterns were never really mainstream, but they are very much "French style", inspired by Hermès. But yeah, Villandry is the easiest to sport today.

 

[SJR3]

Great thread. My random thoughts/contribution:

I've always staunchly preferred 3 1/2" ties. But I'm slowly starting to appreciate slightly narrower widths, having recently acquired a 3 3/8" tie and some 3 1/4" ties on the way. Perhaps the skinny tie trend is finally influencing me... although I recently read a Bloomberg article about J. Crew increasing their standard tie width by 1/4", so perhaps the trend is coming to an end. (J. Crew ties are still pretty skinny though at 2 3/4".)

Still, I'd never go below 3.25", as they'd be ill-proportioned on me; I wear a size 44 jacket and prefer slightly wider than average lapels. It's nice to experiment a bit with tie proportions through the custom services offered by Hober, Vanda and the likes. Anyway, the point of this post is to revive this thread a bit and hear some opinions on tie width. I'd be curious to hear folks' preferences, along with maybe your height/weight/jacket size, and whether or not I'm the only one suddenly preferring slightly narrower ties.

 

[ericgereghty]

Don't give in to the hipsters!! Given your build/preferred lapel size, I'd say 3.5" or so would suit you perfectly.

 

[sprout2]

Just spent $1200 on ties, not sure if totally worth it or totally demented.

 

[PiCcolocV]

The only thing demented is the lack of pics.

 

[sprout2]

The only thing demented is the lack of pics.

Didn't receive them yet

 

[ericgereghty]

Didn't receive them yet

Deets madafacca! Vanda? Hober? Mystery maker?

 

[sprout2]

Quote:
Passaggio Cravatte Ancient thirst all day dis is how we roll #thirst-till-u-burst #style #moltobene

 

[white collar]

Ok fellow tie lovers, I'm thinking about placing an order for several E.G. Cappelli neck ties. I have the patterns, length, and width picked out, the only thing stopping me is the fold and interlining. It looks like there are 3 fold, 5 fold, 6 fold, and 7 fold ties. I own many 3 fold ones and have seen one or two 5 and 7 folds before. My question is what's the advantage of these different folds? I know 7 fold ties are typically unlined but is there really an advantage to a 6 fold over a 5 fold? The interlining, unless I get a 7 fold should I stick with standard or change to light because of the added folds?

Thank you in advance for your knowledge.

 

[Sam Hober]

No advantage to a 6 over 5 fold

A 6 fold will have a heavier feeling and slightly different drape.

7 folds tend to wrinkle...

As a general rule a good tie maker will pick the best interlining for a tie on rare occasions you may have a special reason to change an interlining if you know exactly what you are doing.

 

[Claghorn]

Just spent $1200 on ties, not sure if totally worth it or totally demented.

Quote:
Did you know that he was selling recent fabrics as vintage and when that was discovered, he disappeared off Styleforum and several members never received neckties (or refunds) from existing orders?