Neckties: A Discussion Thread

[sugarbutch]

Clags, given that the tie no longer serves any real functional purpose, I'm not sure we can offer a logical refutation of your wife's position. If she thinks being able to see through the tie makes it S/S, well... What we can say is that convention is not on her side.

The silk knit is particularly good for F/W winter because its texture holds up to the stronger textures of tweeds, flannels, but it has a bit of lustre to offer some subtle contrast.

 

[Claghorn]

Convention argument holds weight with me here--as it generally does when it suggests a broadening of options rather than a restriction.

It's the lightness, which is emphasized by the transparency, that makes it S/S. I do think it's S/S...I'm shocked that some people don't...but I am the last person to suggest that just because something is S/S (without understanding why it is) that it shouldn't be worn F/W (shantung, for instance, is a great F/W fabric in my opinion, provided the colors are right). But thinking back to lookbooks and line ups, a silk knit is much more common for S/S campaigns than F/W campaigns.

 

[sugarbutch]

What sort of "lightness" do you mean?

 

[Claghorn]

The unbearable kind

 

[conradwu]

in b4 shantung hate

 

[Claghorn]

in b4 shantung hate

Don't be reactive, be proactive. Introduce some shantung love.

 

[Mr. Six]

I don't think silk knit ties are seasonal. The rougher, crunchier ones seem better in FW but they're generally appropriate in any season regardless of crunch index.

Lots of photos of knit ties in FW combos: http://www.voxsartoria.com/search/Knit. This one is fun:

But also OK with what looks like a shoulder season fit on the left.

And a summer fit.

One more summer version.

 

[Claghorn]

 

[heldentenor]

I'm still dwelling on the (grossa) grenadine/knit divide. In terms of their contribution to texture, they're quite similar, so for those who strongly prefer one to the other either in general or in particular contexts, the preference must stem from tradition, correct?

I'm beginning to warm to pointed knits, but don't have a large enough tie collection or a sophisticated enough aesthetic to see a distinct niche for them between textured wools and grossa grenadines.

 

[Claghorn]

Wool knit, which is very F/W

F/W silk knit. This works for me.

Silk knit and flannel(?), but this largely strikes me as a seasonally neutral fit despite the flannel.

A F/W with a silk knit that doesn't work for me, though it might not be due to the tie. On second glance, this tie might be wool.

F/W fit with a silk knit that does work for me (I mentioned in my earlier statement that color trumps weave as far as I'm concerned). At second glance, this tie might be wool.

A few S/S silk knits:

(assuming jackets with silk content are S/S)

And a few seasonally neutral, though a few skew S/S I think:

 

[doodledoc]

Anyone with pics of both a kent wang grenadine and a chippneckwear grenadine?

 

[Darkside]

http://www.voxsartoria.com/search/Knit

That link is very inspiring. Bookmarked. Also, this thread is awesome.

 

[Mr. Six]



I'm still dwelling on the (grossa) grenadine/knit divide.  In terms of their contribution to texture, they're quite similar, so for those who strongly prefer one to the other either in general or in particular contexts, the preference must stem from tradition, correct?    

I'd say partly tradition. Knit ties are just casual even if texturally they're similar to grossa grenadines. This is just a guess but I wouldn't be surprised if part also has to do with knitting vs. weaving. Both were done in the home at one point in time but eventually weaving became a commercial craft (and art form) whereas knitting was split between commercial craft and home craft. And even once commercialized knitting remained associated with the rustic and casual. Put another way, if a family member could knit you a tie, the tie would be culturally casual, probably inescapably. (At one point my mother has some skilled knitters producing sweaters from hand-dyed silk. One of them made me a tie in colors I picked. I'm not sure what happened to it. I think I probably chose some unattractive colors though.)

 

[theplayerking]

Does anyone have a Kent Wang grenadine and a Chippneckwear grenadine? I want to see the difference between the fina and gross weave.

I'm wearing a champagne/beige Chipp in my Avatar. It was a formal work photo so I used and half-windsor, though I usually wear it with a four-in-hand. I have the same tie in grey and black.

 

[MrTRC]

I see Claghorn's point and agree with some of it. I, too, see silk Knits as mainly S/S - though i violate that by wearing it year-round. Then again i too see Shantung as cross-seasonal ( though i don't care much for it); even though it is mooted as S/S too.

In addition to Claghorn's reasoning (translucence, lightness), i see silk knits as the perfect marriage to S/S suits and jackets particularly linen and seersucker; the same way flannel's best company is grenadine/cashmere. Also, as i kid i estivated in Italy regularly and it was a commmon sighting around the necks of many a gent; it seemed de rigueur.

For me aesthetics trumps all else. I actually think knit ties are one of those things that brands do not matter one jot.

Examples of 'stripe knits' - i talked about earlier in the thread. I own two block horrizontal stripe knits (vintage Kenzos) and i don't see those here or anywhere. It makes a nice change of pace to the dotted/zig-zag/crunchy/ bicolor ones.

Pics of other nice application of knits below:

Wool knits fall into the neither fish nor fowl category for me though I own two of those - the first a 'lopapeysa' pattern abomination which i never wear and one charcoal wool one from Icelandic wool which is rather lovely and has nice texture. It ties a bulky not however but receives compliments whenever i wear it.