Neckties: A Discussion Thread

[TweedyProf]

I suppose that only ties without excessive lining (seven-folds perhaps?) can tie like this. I think that despite looking a bit messy at first sight, it actually sends a message about the wearer: I am a men of refined taste.

While I think a lot of factors can figure in whether a tie can be knotted in this way, I suspect the lining is a big factor. Perhaps there's something more subtle in this knot that I'm not seeing, but I can usually get this effect by pulling the back blade out a bit when I cinch the knot, regardless of the tie. I don't usually do this, though. Maybe if the tie is a bit on the narrow side for the collar, but it otherwise feels a little iGent to me, at least when done in a bit more flamboyant way (the above is ok).

The emergence of mottled grenadines and grenadine blends intrigues me. In theory it casualizes the grenadine and makes it really versatile for odd jacket fits, but in practice I can't quite wrap my head around it (though the last example looks like a winner). Thoughts?

Why not think of it just as a coarsely woven textured tie with a very dry hand? Functionally, I tend to think of grossas as a close, more refined cousin of knits. The mottled effect just pushes it more in the casual direction.

I picked up a Drake's along these lines. It's very coarse in feel and I think will go quite nicely with tweed. So I say, go for it.

 

[Claghorn]

So I was throwing some shade on a few Drakes ties via PM. @TweedyProf disagreed with some of my comments.

The new lineup includes what I think of as "confetti neats," where the florets or shapes aren't evenly distributed or centered, creating an affect reminiscent of falling confetti. Here is an example from @Henry Carter

(3 more in stock, 54.99 AUD, if you disagree and like confetti ties. HC is a good guy, and so even if he makes the very occasional questionable curatory choice, I still want people buying from him)

and the confetti from Drakes:

and this is both confetti and jacquard (quite a few jacquards in this line up).

 

[TweedyProf]

Well, I don't have anything in principle against confetti. I do agree that these wouldn't be my first choice, but at the same time, they don't look so bad. I'm not sure I like the brown and yellow together in the Henry Carter tie (sorry Jason!).

Here's something to be said about the confetti ties: they bring a bit more energy to a look that breaks up the usual "monotony" of many standard neats. So, they have an occasional place in a series of fits, though they should not be among one's first 10 ties. I think they can work, and the green and blue are oddly attractive to me.

But we need visual examples. @gdl203 Greg, you sold a Drake's wool that was quite similar to the above last winter? I remember someone posting a pic of it in the thread where you commented that it was one of your favorite ties in that buy. I haven't located the pic, but perhaps you could. It was a wool confetti, but I thought it looked quite good.

 

[Claghorn]

They're like a proper neat sneezed.

----

On a different note, at some point I'd like to talk about linen neats/prints. A lot of folks consider neats a bit on the formal side, and I see their point, though that doesn't stop me from wearing them with odd jackets pretty regularly. The idea of a neat linen is internally incoherent (slightly), but I like the idea. @sprout2 mentioned he has a few. I just picked one up, new old stock, off of eBay--the first tie I've purchased off eBay in years (though I regularly peruse the offerings, shooting a PM to SF members if something catches my fancy that I think fits their taste). At 20 dollars and 3.25 inches, I couldn't resist. I'm a little worried that it's a bit bright, but I guess it's a S/S tie anyway.

And not exactly a printed neat--the pattern would look odd on a Macclesfield--but something from NMWA that's nice:

Probably more internally coherent.

 

[dreamspace]

I rarely see any talk about Hermes ties around here. What's the opinion on those? I know they're loved, and a somewhat status symbol among those working in Finance (along with Ferragamo). They seem to be one of the easiest selling ties out there, if you like to flip stuff...but can't really remember the last time I saw anyone here on SF wear one, or discuss them. Where I live they're price around 200$ in the Hermes stores, roughly the same you pay for the other brands discussed in this thread.

 

[TweedyProf]

They're like a proper neat sneezed.

That should get you onto Vox's twitter. Well done!

I think in the end, one has to try the tie on to be really sure. Some combinations/patterns can surprise one once they are cinched and in a fit.

And not exactly a printed neat--the pattern would look odd on a Macclesfield--but something from NMWA that's nice:

Probably more internally coherent.

Mini-confetti?


@dreamspace

Do you have pics of any descent ones? I've seen lots of dog ties (or are those Charvet?), but like many Canali ties, the Hermes patterns I've seen are not enticing. Tis true almost no one on these boards seems to own one or at least is willing to sport them.

 

[gdl203]

But we need visual examples. @gdl203 Greg, you sold a Drake's wool that was quite similar to the above last winter? I remember someone posting a pic of it in the thread where you commented that it was one of your favorite ties in that buy. I haven't located the pic, but perhaps you could. It was a wool confetti, but I thought it looked quite good.

I love confetti ties - I think you'll find a good number of pre-Armoury yfyf WAYWRN pictures with those back in the days. IMO, these and large, retro neat prints are the best ties to wear with a 3 piece suit.

I don't remember the customer picture you mentioned, but we have a couple of confetti wool or silk ties in the new Drakes drop from yesterday, which I like very much.

 

[TweedyProf]

I guess I should just say: "Greg said, so QED." Back in your court, Claghorn.

 

[Claghorn]

That's a terrible argument ("Greg said"). Back in yours, TweedyP.

 

[venividivicibj]

I don't like confetti neats

 

[venividivicibj]



That's a terrible argument ("Greg said"). Back in yours, TweedyP.

In SF it is.
Plenty of people say 'Manton said' or 'vox said' or 'so and so (Agnelli/Astaire/etc etc) wore this' as if it is proof that it means it is in good taste.

 

[gdl203]

I'm sorry I didn't realize I was stepping into some sort of an argument... I've had to suffer from enough inane online arguments in the last couple months to last me a lifetime, so please disregard my opinion if that's an issue.

There is not one single thing in menswear that is more subject to personal taste and less appropriate for analytical study than neckties. That's just my opinion, of course. That's why you'll always see hundreds of ties spread on long tables in stores - it is very personal and incredibly subjective / based on taste.

 

[TweedyProf]

The argument was tongue in cheek of course. Greg's taste, however, is very good, so more signal than noise unlike others in SF.

Here's a post from the NMWA thread that @Mr. Six located for me.



Helps to see it in a fit. You be the judge (this is @Sotiris who seems to have moved on?).

@gdl203 The argument here is all in good fun. No blood will be drawn.

 

[in stitches]



My Borrelli ties also make magnificent knots.

Also, there are some ugly ties in the Drakes line up this year. Of course, there always are. I once joked with @in stitches about someone always slipping in a few designs just to prove Drake's cachet as they manage to sell them. Will elaborate on these suckers later (the ties, not the people that buy them, though some may contend that point as well).

I'd also like a compendium of beautifully tied knots at some point. Just sayin'

I dont know if that is factually correct, but it might be. o_0

 

[Claghorn]

I'm sorry I didn't realize I was stepping into some sort of an argument... I've had to suffer from enough inane online arguments in the last couple months to last me a lifetime, so please disregard my opinion if that's an issue.

There is not one single thing in menswear that is more subject to personal taste and less appropriate for analytical study than neckties. That's just my opinion, of course. That's why you'll always see hundreds of ties spread on long tables in stores - it is very personal and incredibly subjective / based on taste.

Not even slightly an argument. Good natured jawing ^_^