Napoli Su Misura. I don't get it.

[Shirtmaven]

I have had numerous customers stop in my shop wearing Jackets and an overcoat from Mina.

In most cases the fronts look good. then I look at the shoulder set,and I cringe
I understand the concept and fullness of the sleeve of other Neapolitan clothing makers.

NSM has just too much puffy fullness for my taste. I also don't like that odd seam by the shoulder, that must support the sleeve.

what do you do if the Jacket needs dry cleaning, Unless you send this out to Rave or one of the other very high end cleaners then the shoulder will be poorly pressed. (sure, you never Dry clean your jackets)

I have looked at the inside of an NSM jacket, Again, I don't understand what is even going on inside that jacket.
I even looked at it with a tailor with over 50 years of experience.
he was very impressed with the canvas in the front.
He too, was perplexed by the way the seams were finished.

I even found a seam that was glued down.

Part of my prejudice, is that I grew up seeing my father in his Smalto suits, that have a very strong continental shoulder.

I am now wearing some of these suits, I have sloping shoulders. the strong shoulder looks much better to my eye.

When wearing your NSM jackets, how often do you have to explain to friends, that shoulder puffiness is not a defect.

the jacket does look comfortable to wear.

 

[F. Corbera]

If we explained it to you, we would have to kill you.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I am not sure what you mean by "puffy fullness", and "odd seams"? You mean lapped shoulder seams and sleeveheads? Spalla Camicia?

It is interesting because my tailor (Frank via Ercole's) sees a lot of them and his words are always along the lines of "very nice, very old school".

 

[unbelragazzo]

Seems like if you have really slim shoulders and slight build, you probably want a stronger shoulder, and if you're built like a linebacker already, you want as soft a shoulder as possible. In between, it depends on tastes. Personally on myself I like the softer shoulder.

 

[Shirtmaven]



I am not sure what you mean by "puffy fullness", and "odd seams"? You mean lapped shoulder seams and sleeveheads? Spalla Camicia?
It is interesting because my tailor (Frank via Ercole's) sees a lot of them and his words are always along the lines of "very nice, very old school".

lap seam at the shoulder is very apparent. not subtle.
It seems like too much fabric is worked into the smaller armhole.

 

[Shirtmaven]



Seems like if you have really slim shoulders and slight build, you probably want a stronger shoulder, and if you're built like a linebacker already, you want as soft a shoulder as possible. In between, it depends on tastes. Personally on myself I like the softer shoulder.

i am far from slight and i have shoulders.
the padding on the smalto suits is not heavy it just give a stronger appearance.
most people who have tried on the jacket are very impressed with the effect

 

[unbelragazzo]



i am far from slight and i have shoulders.
the padding on the smalto suits is not heavy it just give a stronger appearance.
most people who have tried on the jacket are very impressed with the effect

Yea, I didn't mean in your case in particular - I'd put you in the non-linebacker, non-sparrow category

I think it depends on what you're going for too - the stronger shoulder gives a more impressive, sharp appearance. I think for business and politics and the like when you want to project power, this is most effective. The softer shoulder is more relaxed and casual. I'm mostly wearing jackets in settings that are more casual, where not everybody is wearing a jacket, so I like that aspect of it. If I were to need business suits, I'd get them with a stronger shoulder. Maybe not Smalto/Brioni strong, but not NsM. I like the shoulders on some recent Zegna editions I have seen for business. A few years back they were overly padded, then cut back a bit to something I like a lot more.

 

[cigarMan]

Can someone elaborate on those glued seams?
I'm thinking of ordering with NSM in the next few months, so this would be a big no no.
Is this kind of shoulder done with all NSM jackets? I'm asking this, because most of the SF clients (those who posted pics) have a stronger body type, so this might only be done on their jackets.

Thanks

 

[alliswell]



...Unless you send this out to Rave or one of the other very high end cleaners then the shoulder will be poorly pressed...

Hallak did a great job cleaning and pressing a suit I sent them. The price was , however.

As for the shoulder seam, you've probably seen one where the lapped shoulder is very pronounced (1/8" or so). That's cosmetic, AFAIK.

More substantively - I'm surprised to hear that you saw glue on a coat. Where was it?

And what's the concern with finishing the seams? Are you talking about the internal exposed seams in an unlined coat?

 

[sellahi22]

The soft shoulders, lapped seams etc. are part of a movement toward making the suit more low-key and relaxed. I for one would be uncomfortable projecting a sharp or "powerful" look, even for business. Maybe this is just a fad, but I think it's a reflection of the direction of tailored clothing in the 21st century.

 

[apropos]

...nothing says power like not worrying about having to wield it.

 

[Shirtmaven]

I will guess that the seams are turned, as they are, so that the jacket has considerable outlets.
easier to let out, .
the glue was in one spot holding down a seam.

not the whole garment.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Maybe some ricotta cheese dripped on the seam while she was pressing it.

 

[unbelragazzo]



ricotta cheese

 

[alliswell]

Interesting cross post from the unofficial appreciation thread:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/207054/my-visit-to-napoli-mina-napoli-su-misura/1350_50#post_5013822