MyTailor (Hemrajani Bros.) Appreciation/Discussion Thread

[trusheerush]

Got a couple shirts from Divij, one solemnos OCBD and one dress shirt. Thoughts:

The good:

• The Hemrajani fabric I picked, one of their cheaper twills, is really nice!
• The way the fabric is sewn together is a step up from other Asian MTM shirtmakers. Higher stitch density. The collar is set in to the shirt in a way that helps it stay folded down nicer. The floating interlining on the collar is well done.
• Great collar customization. I like to specify band height and point length and their MTM program accommodates that.

The bad:

• No thread shanks on the buttons. Would have expected this at this level.
• Incorrect button placement for the button down collar. The spread of the buttons matches the spread of collar, which is wrong, so the collar lays completely flat and doesn't roll at all. The button spread should be a bit narrower than the collar spread. It's an easy enough fix for my tailor to do but frustrating nonetheless.
• All of the shirts depicted on the website show split yoke shirts, but the shirts I received were single piece yokes. I prefer split yoke on my striped shirts since it shows off the pattern matching. I expected to receive one but did not.

I'm debating between going with Divij again for future shirts vs Luxire or Proper Cloth. Divij has the most impressive fabric selection and some of the construction is really impressive, but some important details are taken for granted at the other two, whereas they are not with Divij.

 

[scurvyfreedman]

Got a couple shirts from Divij, one solemnos OCBD and one dress shirt. Thoughts:

The good:

• The Hemrajani fabric I picked, one of their cheaper twills, is really nice!
• The way the fabric is sewn together is a step up from other Asian MTM shirtmakers. Higher stitch density. The collar is set in to the shirt in a way that helps it stay folded down nicer. The floating interlining on the collar is well done.
• Great collar customization. I like to specify band height and point length and their MTM program accommodates that.

The bad:

• No thread shanks on the buttons. Would have expected this at this level.
• Incorrect button placement for the button down collar. The spread of the buttons matches the spread of collar, which is wrong, so the collar lays completely flat and doesn't roll at all. The button spread should be a bit narrower than the collar spread. It's an easy enough fix for my tailor to do but frustrating nonetheless.
• All of the shirts depicted on the website show split yoke shirts, but the shirts I received were single piece yokes. I prefer split yoke on my striped shirts since it shows off the pattern matching. I expected to receive one but did not.

I'm debating between going with Divij again for future shirts vs Luxire or Proper Cloth. Divij has the most impressive fabric selection and some of the construction is really impressive, but some important details are taken for granted at the other two, whereas they are not with Divij.

You have to specify split yoke.

When I was measured by M. Kenny he didn't give the collar as nice a roll as after I had Divij measure me and make adjustments when he was traveling. It wasn't flat with M. Kenny, but it wasn't a really nice roll like it is now.

I've never seen shanked buttons on a shirt. Looking at the images of 100 hands, which have some of the most extensive handwork of any shirtmaker, it doesn't look shanked, at least not like coat buttons.

 

[JohnMRobie]

I've never seen shanked buttons on a shirt. Looking at the images of 100 hands, which have some of the most extensive handwork of any shirtmaker, it doesn't look shanked, at least not like coat buttons.

My 100Hands (RTW), Charvet (Bespoke) and D’Avino (Bespoke) shirts have slightly shanked buttons. I find it makes a pretty negligible difference in practical terms. Definitely wouldn’t pick a maker over it.

 

[VintageAudiophile]

You have to specify split yoke.

When I was measured by M. Kenny he didn't give the collar as nice a roll as after I had Divij measure me and make adjustments when he was traveling. It wasn't flat with M. Kenny, but it wasn't a really nice roll like it is now.

I've never seen shanked buttons on a shirt. Looking at the images of 100 hands, which have some of the most extensive handwork of any shirtmaker, it doesn't look shanked, at least not like coat buttons.

Agree. The yoke needs to be specified vs assumed.

I’ve had several different shirts and collar styles and always felt after some tweaking the nail the roll perfectly. I really love the one piece collars they do and think it’s turned out beautifully after just a few changes here and there.

It’s been awhile since I’ve been to Divij but will say he was always happy to make adjustments and work with you. Given you don’t have basted fittings you do need to do some tweaking here and there to nail things down but once done, it comes out really great.

 

[VintageAudiophile]

looking for any feedback regarding polo coats and which fabrics to look at. I want to start the process around this summer and planned on doing two fall/winter coats. One would be a polo and unsure if second would be a top coat or something else.

Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated.

For reference, I’m in Chicago and would likely wear as a daily coat for work unless it’s extremely cold (think below 0 with wind chill). Then either I contemplate why I live here or I just work from home.

 

[mhip]

It’s been awhile since I’ve been to Divij

For my own clarification because of how close they are to my location, have you had items made by the father, son, or both?

 

[JohnMRobie]

looking for any feedback regarding polo coats and which fabrics to look at. I want to start the process around this summer and planned on doing two fall/winter coats. One would be a polo and unsure if second would be a top coat or something else.

Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated.

For reference, I’m in Chicago and would likely wear as a daily coat for work unless it’s extremely cold (think below 0 with wind chill). Then either I contemplate why I live here or I just work from home.

Depending what color and use you’re after - I have an ulster in waiting using the Fox Military Issue overcoating in midnight that clocks in at 1kg and has some great texture. I also have a Joshua Ellis 100% cashmere that’s 760 gram that’s warm enough for most winter days down to about 0, particularly with gloves and a scarf. I have a polo coat in 560 gram merino that is good for the 15-40° range.

 

[VintageAudiophile]

For my own clarification because of how close they are to my location, have you had items made by the father, son, or both?

I’ve had both father and son but mostly have worked with Divij. Originally Joe did a couple shirts and some trousers for me and then Divij worked on my wedding suit and a lot of various shirts, pants, jeans, and a shirt jacket that I love.

 

[VintageAudiophile]

Depending what color and use you’re after - I have an ulster in waiting using the Fox Military Issue overcoating in midnight that clocks in at 1kg and has some great texture. I also have a Joshua Ellis 100% cashmere that’s 760 gram that’s warm enough for most winter days down to about 0, particularly with gloves and a scarf. I have a polo coat in 560 gram merino that is good for the 15-40° range.

Thanks for the info. Color is the hard one as I can never decide but would likely go navy. Second coat is up in the air till I figure out what I actually want to do. That Fox fabric looks fantastic.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Thanks for the info. Color is the hard one as I can never decide but would likely go navy. Second coat is up in the air till I figure out what I actually want to do. That Fox fabric looks fantastic.

The texture is awesome for a polo/ulster.
Tons of body too.

 

[nevaeh]

Got a couple shirts from Divij, one solemnos OCBD and one dress shirt. Thoughts:

The good:

• The Hemrajani fabric I picked, one of their cheaper twills, is really nice!
• The way the fabric is sewn together is a step up from other Asian MTM shirtmakers. Higher stitch density. The collar is set in to the shirt in a way that helps it stay folded down nicer. The floating interlining on the collar is well done.
• Great collar customization. I like to specify band height and point length and their MTM program accommodates that.

The bad:

• No thread shanks on the buttons. Would have expected this at this level.
• Incorrect button placement for the button down collar. The spread of the buttons matches the spread of collar, which is wrong, so the collar lays completely flat and doesn't roll at all. The button spread should be a bit narrower than the collar spread. It's an easy enough fix for my tailor to do but frustrating nonetheless.
• All of the shirts depicted on the website show split yoke shirts, but the shirts I received were single piece yokes. I prefer split yoke on my striped shirts since it shows off the pattern matching. I expected to receive one but did not.

I'm debating between going with Divij again for future shirts vs Luxire or Proper Cloth. Divij has the most impressive fabric selection and some of the construction is really impressive, but some important details are taken for granted at the other two, whereas they are not with Divij.

Seems like you had a good experience overall? As for the other issues:

I’ve never noticed a functional difference with shanks on my shirts. My 100 Hands shirt has stubby shanks. My CEGO shirt and my Divij shirts don’t. They’re all equally easy to button and have been equally durable. I presume the size of the buttonhole is an important factor for ease of buttoning.

My Divij, 100Hands, and CEGO shirts are all single yokes. All are made by expert shirtmakers, and all shirts are comfortable. The pattern matching still shows up on the sleeveheads, if that is a metric. And you can ask him for a split yoke for future shirts, though I remain skeptical about functional benefits.

Regarding the button down buttons, ask Divij to move the buttons. Should be an easy enough alteration.

 

[ppk]

The texture is awesome for a polo/ulster.
Tons of body too.
View attachment 2308325 View attachment 2308327

Wow! That's amazing. Can you please provide more details?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Wow! That's amazing. Can you please provide more details?

Here ya go.

 

[classicalthunde]

Here ya go.

Is Divij making your polo/ulster? was considering having him make one down the line...

 

[JohnMRobie]

Is Divij making your polo/ulster? was considering having him make one down the line...

I don’t use Divij - But cloth advice seemed transferable enough.