my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

[Eustace Tilley]

Well, he's got paper patterns in his workroom, for what it's worth. He showed me some for clients he thought I would have heard of. I had not.

Wait, that's not true. He showed me aportnoy's, who is a superstar.

He showed me Grayson's pattern, and also Reinaldo Herrera's. Both superstars.

I also met Grayson at Raph's - surprisingly sane and normal irl.

 

[clapeyron]

isn't he violating some sort of tailor-patient confidentiality in doing so? I wouldn't want my tailor showing strange iGents my inseam...

 

[Manton]



Yep, still there.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



For example, the drape of my jackets differs a great deal between examples. Some have an obvious fold at the scye, most have only a hint, and a few have none whatsoever. Buttoning points move up or down a half centimeter. The shape of the shirt-set sleeveheads varies (sometimes more shirred and obvious, other times barely perceptible). That sort of stuff is all what you expect from specimen to specimen.

Those are exactly the variances I have also experienced.

 

[TheFoo]



He showed me Grayson's pattern, and also Reinaldo Herrera's. Both superstars.

I also met Grayson at Raph's - surprisingly sane and normal irl.

Some of the more mild-mannered people on the forums are the creepiest, most awkward in real life. So, it does not surprise me that wilder internet personalities can come across more normal in actuality. Makes sense, actually. People who carefully manicure their online personas have a special sort of neurosis I'd rather not be exposed to.

 

[Victor Elfo]

The shoulders on this NSM look fine to me: http://www.voxsartoria.com/image/51810861720

They're much closer to a natural line, but the upturn is still there, just more discreet. However, the buttoning point is much better on this one, comparing to 1 (the buttoning point is too high and the front balance is too long) and 2 (too low).

 

[clapeyron]

Some of the more mild-mannered people on the forums are the creepiest, most awkward in real life. So, it does not surprise me that wilder internet personalities can come across more normal in actuality. Makes sense, actually. People who carefully manicure their online personas have a special sort of neurosis I'd rather not be exposed to.

The longer I think about it, that is actually a brilliant observation. After Godwin, Poe and Dunning Kruger we've now coined Foo's law.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



So here's a question: To what extent do you all think that your bespoke tailors are actually recutting/adjusting their paper patterns each time a garment is fixed to better account for errors in cutting vs. body shape and changes in body shape, vs. just fixing the garment & eyeballing/altering in future iterations?

One of the main selling points of bespoke is supposed to be that your tailor over time develops an accurate blue print from which you can rattle off suits/jackets/whatever. But if they are not actually updating their pattern each time (including for minor alterations type work as garments are finished), it seems to me that that would rob a lot of the value in terms of fine tuning.

The alternative that I am suspicious of is a tailor who makes significant alterations to your garments as they are in process, without adjusting the paper pattern, and thus each subsequent iteration does not benefit from the fine tweaks to the previous.

So with tailors you've worked with over time, do new garments come out just right on the first try, or do they require several fittings each time? If each one requires multiple fittings, what's the justification?

I've made a few forays into bespoke, but have not been a repeat customer, because the frustration of waiting and adjusting and the additional expense has not thus far proved worth it, considering I fit quite well (and often exceptionally well) in off the rack items from some makers. I realize I am robbed of picking my own fabrics, but I generally do not have trouble finding things that I like or want in the places I shop.

Much has been said by the rest on the subject, but here's another point I think is quite relevant -- often we assume that the variances between the various garments lie solely with differences in how the cutter has cut the cloth. I think another reason why there might be variances up to a quarter of an inch between coats also stems partly from the fact that there are usually a few coatmakers and differences might well be a result of the fact that the coatmaker is different, works differently, or that he didn't follow the cutter's 'instructions' to the line.

I think that's why there's so much emphasis on how a single 'tailor' who sees the coat from start to finish (cutting to making up) tends to result in the delivery of a better garment because the tailor works with the client and is privy to the client's figurations and can adjust for them when making the garment up. Unless one is visiting a small, niche operation, the coatmaker usually doesn't even see the client at all.

Sometimes I'm still puzzled why my garments always appear slimmer and closer fitting at the fitting stages, and a bit more relaxed when the garment is completed.

 

[Cantabrigian]



People who carefully manicure their online personas have a special sort of neurosis I'd rather not be exposed to.

 

[CaymanS]

Not too long ago, Grayson went bat-**** off the deep end with anti-Islam screeds at the FNB forum - was incredible to see people pounce on him, and he kept going - dude did not let up, not one bit. He kept the crazy juice flowing at literally all hours of the day. Felt like the good old days!

FNB kept it real, too - didn't ban him, despite all sorts of people 'retiring' from the forum vox-style because of all the cray cray.

If I ever ran into Grayson in real life at a bespoke appointment, I'd have no choice but to scream ALLAHU AKBAR!!!! really loudly whilst running directly at him with a pair of oversized tailor's shears, just to see him piss his bespoke pants...

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Not too long ago, Grayson went bat-**** off the deep end with anti-Islam screeds at the FNB forum - was incredible to see people pounce on him, and he kept going - dude did not let up, not one bit. He kept the crazy juice flowing at literally all hours of the day. Felt like the good old days!

FNB kept it real, too - didn't ban him, despite all sorts of people 'retiring' from the forum vox-style because of all the cray cray.

If I ever ran into Grayson in real life at a bespoke appointment, I'd have no choice but to scream ALLAHU AKBAR!!!! really loudly whilst running directly at him with a pair of oversized tailor's shears, just to see him piss his bespoke pants...

Link pls?

 

[CaymanS]



Link pls?

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=6770&p=2

One thread among many. Emphasis on "many." He's like that crazy ***** Victoria Jackson who used to be on SNL but now spends all her time trying to convince people that the Islamic Brotherhood has infiltrated the highest levels of the US government. Her new material is better than anything she ever did on SNL!!

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Thanks, Cayman

 

[Gus]

I received some cashmere cotton blend pants this week from NSM. They compliment a brown and bone colored wool cashmere herringbone jacket they made for me last year. The weight is ideal for fall. The fit is quite nice and the fabric is extremely comfortable.

 

[Big A]

Going back to an earlier comment, I think the NSM chest is full enough. Some of the Rubinacci stuff I've seen here is so full in the pecs that it approaches caricature. I understand why southern Italians might dig the overinflated peacock chest, but to me the attraction of NSM was that the "swole" was a bit less pronounced.

I wonder how much of that is SF preference vs. the actual Rubinacci house style. The pics of Luca that pop up every day on tumblr show a trimmer silhouette. I've seen Rubi's IRL that didn't have quite so much drape.

In other news, my latest NSM jacket also lacks the pa-f****d (censored for the weak of heart) profile. I'm guessing my less-than-ideal physique and extra-sloped shoulders have something to do with it since all my NSM stuff is pad-free. I'd post pics but they're adjusting some stuff.