MTO vs. Bespoke (shoes)

[mljs54]

Hello gents,

After spending thousands of dollars on ill-fitting shoes, I've come to the conclusion I need something tailored to my rather unique feet.

I have a few quick questions (I tried searching but was unsuccessful):

1. What is the major difference between MTO and bespoke - is a unique last actually created for your in the bespoke process vs. the shoemaker/company trying to find the best-fitting (existing) last from their current lineup to fit to your feet measurements in MTO?

2. What are my best options for MTO / bespoke in NYC?

3. I'm not looking for anything too fancy / unique to start out with, just a simple pair of black cap toe oxfords - what price can I expect to pay? Again, fit is most improtant factor.

Appreciate any input / advice.

 

[SoGent]

I'll take a shot at this, expecting others to chime in.

The standard MTO is essentially ordering a particular style you like on an existing last.
For example, using G&G for reference, you could choose a style and have it lasted on the MH71, TG, DG and so on.
From my experience, my example works for EG, Bonafe, Carmina etc.

TRUE bespoke is having a maker create a last specifically for you.
This method will normally take a couple of fittings with test shoes so the last can be modified as needed.
Virtually all major makers discussed in this forum have such an option.

I don't know all options available in the City but Leffot is the first to come to mind and can help you with the major brands with the exception of Meccariello. While on the subject, Leffot may also be the best place to try on shoes to find if any maker's mass produced lasts fit you well.

As for price, an MTO can run ~ $ 1,200 to $ 2k depending on the maker.
I've never ordered bespoke, but come close with Riccardo Bestetti. Bespoke would normally cost $2,500 + + + +

Not sure this helped, but it's a start.

 

[Ilovelobbs]

I'll take a shot at this, expecting others to chime in.

The standard MTO is essentially ordering a particular style you like on an existing last.
For example, using G&G for reference, you could choose a style and have it lasted on the MH71, TG, DG and so on.
From my experience, my example works for EG, Bonafe, Carmina etc.

TRUE bespoke is having a maker create a last specifically for you.
This method will normally take a couple of fittings with test shoes so the last can be modified as needed.
Virtually all major makers discussed in this forum have such an option.

I don't know all options available in the City but Leffot is the first to come to mind and can help you with the major brands with the exception of Meccariello. While on the subject, Leffot may also be the best place to try on shoes to find if any maker's mass produced lasts fit you well.

As for price, an MTO can run ~ $ 1,200 to $ 2k depending on the maker.
I've never ordered bespoke, but come close with Riccardo Bestetti. Bespoke would normally cost $2,500 + + + +

Not sure this helped, but it's a start.

Agree with the above from SoGent.

If you're ever in the UK the following bespoke makers are:

1) Fosters & Son
2) Cleverleys
3) John Lobb London
4) Gaziano & Girling

The European Houses
1) Vass
2) Berluti
3) Corthay
4) Saint Crispin
5) Crockett & Jones Paris

 

[chogall]

Hello gents,

After spending thousands of dollars on ill-fitting shoes, I've come to the conclusion I need something tailored to my rather unique feet.

I have a few quick questions (I tried searching but was unsuccessful):

1. What is the major difference between MTO and bespoke - is a unique last actually created for your in the bespoke process vs. the shoemaker/company trying to find the best-fitting (existing) last from their current lineup to fit to your feet measurements in MTO?

2. What are my best options for MTO / bespoke in NYC?

3. I'm not looking for anything too fancy / unique to start out with, just a simple pair of black cap toe oxfords - what price can I expect to pay? Again, fit is most improtant factor.

Appreciate any input / advice.

1. For bespoke, you do have a personal last with extensive last adjustments, with potential for unique patterns. Some makers offer in-welt fittings w/ semi-finished shoes, some offers trial shoes, while some don't do fitting. There are also remote bespoke offerings as well for makers w/ less fame or foreign makers.

For most MTO, last adjustment options could be limited and pattern adjustments/making is limited; using stock patterns as well instead of patterns made specifically for your last. There are quite a few remote MTO options that is priced very competitively.

2. I don't know. There's no 'best'. There are a lot of traveling shoemakers visiting NYC, its oftentimes easier to select on their house style/specialty. Saint Crispins offers MTO with last adjustments that I cannot personally recommend due to my experience. YMMV.

3. Depends on the maker, UK guys starts from $4-5k+, JLP/Berluti starts $7k+

So what styles of shoes do you like?

A good start will be visit these guys websites bespoke section to learn a bit more about their house style looks: John Lobb London, Cleverley, Fosters & Son, Cleverley, Gaziano & Girling, Berluti, John Lobb Paris. Also Koji Suzuki. Also Corthay but I am not sure if they visit NYC for bespoke.

You could further strategize on a 2x2. Classic <--> Modern, Country <--> Elegant. Pick a specific quadrant and it will be easier to make recommendations.

 

[Tried and True]



After spending thousands of dollars on ill-fitting shoes, I've come to the conclusion I need something tailored to my rather unique feet.

What are my best options for bespoke in NYC?

http://www.perryercolino.com

 

[DWFII]

Kika Bespoke in Brooklyn. Anne Marika Verploegh Chasse--studied with Janne Melkersson, IIRC (?), as well as other makers European and American. Or Brooklyn Bespoke. Marika and Jesse Moore. Same outfit or a more recent iteration.

Bespoke doesn't have to be significantly more expensive than high end RTW...and in some cases much, much less....despite what the naysayers and shills will tell you. Yes, you have to look for unknown makers. Yes, you have to abandon bragging rights such has "Look at me! Aren't I fancy (and terribly wealthy)--I'm wearing Lobbs!." And yes, you may have to invest a little more time and energy working with the shoemaker--providing clear and detailed information and feedback. But diamonds have to be searched for and never come out of the ground already cut and polished.

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