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Momotaro

CalTex

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El Argentino

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Jay-D

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this available?


In production now. Should have a firm launch date in a couple weeks.

ok. considering a dark, minimalistic momo denim (no pocket white paint). 36 waist, rugby player thighs (approx 25"), want at least a 10 inch front rise (medium rise). not in need of something to wear daily, or in search of serious fades.
suggestions? 201? 702? 003?
BIG 705 SP?
Jay-D/Blue Owl - any plans for sterling buttons/rivets in the future on any of your models?


0201 is probably the best fit for you.

Sterling is possible, but not something I have looked into. I will think about it for one of the next runs.
 

ThinkDerm

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Guys. Read the entire Momotaro thread (from 2009 to present).

I'm from MC on SF, and have been buying a few denims lately.

Having measured my other denims, several brand new (APCs New Standards size 35, levis, NSF, etc)

Regarding measurements, my APCs have the following specs (Waist, Rise, Thigh, Knee, Leg Opening) : 36, 11, 12.5, 9.5, 8.75 (http://www.contextclothing.com/item.php?id=6).

I like the way the waist fits (slightly loose, but these will not be my regulars, so not too worried about stretch), it is ideal as is (36"), could be a tad snugger, 35 to 35.5.

Like the rise of 11", could be a tad higher (11.5 to 12", prefer not lower than 10)

The thigh at 12.5 is good, and if anything, slightly loose (I could go for 12.25 and still have room).

Knee of 9.5 seems fine, but there is a lot of room below the knee to the LO of 8.75 (not enough taper for me, and I have athletic calves).

I could also go with a narrower fit in the leg opening. 7.75/8 inches preferred.

I know I got feedback suggesting the 201 already.

Momotaro Vintage Label 15.7oz "Slim Straight" Raw Selvedge Denim - Model 0201
http://blueowl.us/scripts/psp/VB_Bridge3.dll?VBPROG=\bin\shop.prodt.detail&SKU=7976001

The measurements on those are:

* Size 34 (35" waist, 11.25" rise, 13" thigh, 9.5" knee, 39.5" inseam, 8.9" leg opening)
* Size 36 (37" waist, 11.5" rise, 13.5" thigh, 9.85" knee, 39.5" inseam, 9.2" leg opening)

Seems too wide of a leg opening, not enough taper.

The 701s and 702s seem to have a similar fit - is the difference just the dye color, patch?

Momotaro + Context 0701 113XX
http://www.contextclothing.com/item.php?id=3288 seems like a better slim fit
36 36.5 10.75 12.25 9.25 8.75

Momotaro Deep Indigo 15oz "Tight Straight" Raw Selvedge Denim - Model 0702
http://blueowl.us/scripts/psp/VB_Bridge3.dll?VBPROG=\bin\shop.prodt.detail&SKU=7960000
Size 36 (36" waist, 11" rise, 12.5" thigh, 9.5" knee, 34.5" inseam, 8.75" leg opening)

Momotaro Vintage Label 15.7oz "Tight Straight" Raw Selvedge Denim - Model 0701
http://blueowl.us/scripts/psp/VB_Br...exe&SKU=7976002&CONFIG001=Indigo&CONFIG002=36
Size 36 (37" waist, 11.5" rise, 12.5" thigh, 9.75" knee, 39" inseam, 9" leg opening)

BIG also has the following, seemingly at a higher pricepoint than Jay-D/Blue Owl. Fits seem to be the same:

BIG also has 201s: http://blueingreensoho.com/site/ind...acturer_id=42&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=62

BIG also has 701s: http://blueingreensoho.com/site/ind...acturer_id=42&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=62

BIG also has 702s: http://blueingreensoho.com/site/ind...acturer_id=42&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=62

Also, how much shrinkage should I account for wash (supposedly up to 2 inches in waist and inseam, half inch in thighs, rise)?

How much stretch for wears (I know this is a tight weave, minimal stretch)?

Thanks guys.
 

Mistral

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0701 and 0702 both are the same fit, but...

The 0701 is made of unsanforized fabric, and thus will shrink when it gets in touch with water. Shrinkage should be about: 1" in the waist, 0.25 to 0.5" in the thigh area and 2 to 2,5" on the inseam. The whole fit might get a tad smaller at other points (like knee and leg opening).

Jay is a good guy to deal with, if you are in between sizes, he might be able to pick a pair with smaller of bigger measurements, as Momotaro's are crafted by hand, there are some minor differences in sizing per pair.

Stretch with prolonged wear is about 1" in the waist. Some say the thigh also stretches a bit, but I won't comment on that. The fabric in that area runs from top to bottom and will most like shrink/stretch in length. Waistband is attached at a 90 degree angle, if you know what I mean.

Point is, you have to get the thigh measurements right from the start, or else the tightly woven denim would certainly not be your best friend.

The 0702 is a sanforized pair. This means it will not shrink much (3%).

Hope that helps.
 

Jay-D

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Momotaro does not offer a fit with that narrow of a leg opening. Of the options you mentioned, the "Tight Straight" models are essentially the same fit and do vary do to the fabrics yet is the same silhouette. Best option for you is to choose a model using the "Tight Straight" fit and we can physically measure the exact pairs available in our inventory and see if one has a leg opening small enough for you liking. Each denim is hand made, so measurements can vary slightly and a 1/4" in the leg opening may make a huge difference. Out of the Tight Straights, the last production run of the Copper Label has the most taper and is probably your best option. It is a one wash fabric, meaning unsanforized that is cold soaked post production, and you do not need to worry about soaking or shrinkage.

In terms of a tapered fit that would have the thigh and leg opening you are describing, I would go Japan Blue tapered or Naked & Famous Weird Guy., amybe in a collaboration that is available. The N&F x Momo Weird Guy might be the one for you if you can track it down.
 

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Yeap. I prefer the leg opening to be around 7.75" - 8.5". In case you think I contradicted myself, I was crunching numbers and was half-assing my "research" on jeans up until I bought the 003. I'm thinking about ironing/starching them tomorrow actually. Heh. /randomthought
 

CalTex

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we are talkind about these right?

The leg opening is in your range, unless you need a size 36.
 
Last edited:

Bussit

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Yezzir. I was more stressed looking at the measurements than reading through posts. I learned a lot within the past few weeks though. My face when the knee was in the 9" territory: http://i.imgur.com/tXOT3.png If it makes you feel better, the pair of Ande Whall's I just ordered has a front rise of 11.6", thigh 12.75", knee 8.3", and LO 7.9". Caribou fit in tagged 33 for the Special Roll #2
 

ThinkDerm

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Yeap.  I prefer the leg opening to be around 7.75" - 8.5".  In case you think I contradicted myself, I was crunching numbers and was half-assing my "research" on jeans up until I bought the 003.  I'm thinking about ironing/starching them tomorrow actually.  Heh.  /randomthought

yeah, I'd prefer a smaller leg opening as well.

How's the rise going on the 003s? you got the 36s?
 

El Argentino

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yeah, I'd prefer a smaller leg opening as well.
How's the rise going on the 003s? you got the 36s?


It's going to be very short. Much shorter than you're looking for.
 

ThinkDerm

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Bussit

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