MC General Chat

[clee1982]

the 2010 era incotex in my head is modern slim (before it goes stupid slim)?

 

[whorishconsumer]

I maybe the remaining fan of the 2010 forum favorite Incotex chinos. I do like the 2% stretch in their regular cut. Especially comfortable for travel.

TINY PENTS

 

[known_villain]

I'm super-happy with the Buck Mason's Paperback Twill Full Saddle chino. Was my first foray into a fuller fit.

 

[othertravel]

So here it is: my attempt at the Paul Stuart look without the Paul Stuart pricing.

Like most PS tailoring, this is made by Samuelsohn. In order to get the PS look, I had to ask for manual modifications to the block pattern, including, but not limited to, widening the lapel to 4 inches, and lowering the buttoning point by 1cm.

The suit is also single buttoned. I'm going to let out the trouser leg, as it's a bit too trim for my liking - there's just under an inch to let out.

The fabric is a flannel chalkstripe by Zegna.

So if you have the patience to drive to Canada, and make modifications to the block pattern, you can get a Paul Stuart look for about half the price of actual Paul Stuart.

For my next commission, I'm going to keep the same lapel width and buttoning point, but add a second button and a ticket pocket. I'm also going to go for a more regular fitting trouser - this one's the 'trim' model. Lastly, I'm going to opt for minimal shoulder padding.

 

[othertravel]

Sharp-suited Blair takes family on Italian yachting break

As he arrived with his family to board Ellison's yacht Musashi last week, he was wearing a pair of Church's £820 Heswall suede loafers. And - horror of horrors - he did so sockless

www.dailymail.co.uk

Apparently, Tony Blair still wears Church's.

 

[comrade]

In the late 80's to the 90's most khakis were similar in fit and using lighter weight khaki twill made off-shore (The Gap, Banana Republic, etc.) but Bill's offered a heavier weight, made in USA, straight fuller cut similar to 40's and 50's style military. They soon became a staple brand in independent, traditional men's clothing stores across the country. The fit was especially appealing to older and larger guys and was counter to the fashion fit/look of that period. (This was also the period where every "dad" had a leather flight style jacket).

My Dad had a leather Flight Jacket that he wore in the 8th Air Force during WWII.
Probably with heavy "officer pinks" https://onlinemilitaria.net/products/138-us-army-officer-pink-trousers-light-shade/. He was neither a fighter, nor bomber pilot, but a Dentist assigned to bomber bases in the UK, and briefly France. I wore the jacket in high School.

 

[comrade]

So here it is: my attempt at the Paul Stuart look without the Paul Stuart pricing.

Like most PS tailoring, this is made by Samuelsohn. In order to get the PS look, I had to ask for manual modifications to the block pattern, including, but not limited to, widening the lapel to 4 inches, and lowering the buttoning point by 1cm.

The suit is also single buttoned. I'm going to let out the trouser leg, as it's a bit too trim for my liking - there's just under an inch to let out.

The fabric is a flannel chalkstripe by Zegna.

So if you have the patience to drive to Canada, and make modifications to the block pattern, you can get a Paul Stuart look for about half the price of actual Paul Stuart.

For my next commission, I'm going to keep the same lapel width and buttoning point, but add a second button and a ticket pocket. I'm also going to go for a more regular fitting trouser - this one's the 'trim' model. Lastly, I'm going to opt for minimal shoulder padding.

View attachment 2296121

Are you latter day "Master of the Universe'? Your suit says so. Very elegant.

 

[othertravel]

Are you latter day "Master of the Universe'? Your suit says so. Very elegant.

If by ‘Master of the Universe’ you mean mid-level bureaucrat, then yes!

And thank you for the compliment!

 

[clee1982]

So here it is: my attempt at the Paul Stuart look without the Paul Stuart pricing.

Like most PS tailoring, this is made by Samuelsohn. In order to get the PS look, I had to ask for manual modifications to the block pattern, including, but not limited to, widening the lapel to 4 inches, and lowering the buttoning point by 1cm.

The suit is also single buttoned. I'm going to let out the trouser leg, as it's a bit too trim for my liking - there's just under an inch to let out.

The fabric is a flannel chalkstripe by Zegna.

So if you have the patience to drive to Canada, and make modifications to the block pattern, you can get a Paul Stuart look for about half the price of actual Paul Stuart.

For my next commission, I'm going to keep the same lapel width and buttoning point, but add a second button and a ticket pocket. I'm also going to go for a more regular fitting trouser - this one's the 'trim' model. Lastly, I'm going to opt for minimal shoulder padding.

View attachment 2296121

that looks pretty good, can they add roping or that's too far off pattern

 

[ppk]

So here it is: my attempt at the Paul Stuart look without the Paul Stuart pricing.

Like most PS tailoring, this is made by Samuelsohn. In order to get the PS look, I had to ask for manual modifications to the block pattern, including, but not limited to, widening the lapel to 4 inches, and lowering the buttoning point by 1cm.

The suit is also single buttoned. I'm going to let out the trouser leg, as it's a bit too trim for my liking - there's just under an inch to let out.

The fabric is a flannel chalkstripe by Zegna.

So if you have the patience to drive to Canada, and make modifications to the block pattern, you can get a Paul Stuart look for about half the price of actual Paul Stuart.

For my next commission, I'm going to keep the same lapel width and buttoning point, but add a second button and a ticket pocket. I'm also going to go for a more regular fitting trouser - this one's the 'trim' model. Lastly, I'm going to opt for minimal shoulder padding.

View attachment 2296121

This looks fantastic. Can you please describe the process? Thanks.

 

[clee1982]

I don't know about this "transition" lapel...

Dark Bronze Herringbone Jacket

A dark elegant sports jacket, dark bronze in colour, rich in texture that transitions well from day to nigt Cut on our structured block with our transition lapel, this dark bronze herringbone jacket works with smart flannel and casual cotton or denim trousers alike.

www.edwardsexton.co.uk

 

[DorianGreen]

I don't know about this "transition" lapel...

Dark Bronze Herringbone Jacket

A dark elegant sports jacket, dark bronze in colour, rich in texture that transitions well from day to nigt Cut on our structured block with our transition lapel, this dark bronze herringbone jacket works with smart flannel and casual cotton or denim trousers alike.

www.edwardsexton.co.uk

It looks weird in my eyes, halfway between notch and peak lapel.

 

[smittycl]

I don't know about this "transition" lapel...

Dark Bronze Herringbone Jacket

A dark elegant sports jacket, dark bronze in colour, rich in texture that transitions well from day to nigt Cut on our structured block with our transition lapel, this dark bronze herringbone jacket works with smart flannel and casual cotton or denim trousers alike.

www.edwardsexton.co.uk

Yeah, a bit odd. I do like their famous white dinner jacket, though.

 

[othertravel]

This looks fantastic. Can you please describe the process? Thanks.

Thank you.

1. The first step is to try on the model you’re working off of. In this case, I used the Madison fit, which is a trim drop 7 cut. There is a cosmo fit which is a drop 6, and has lower arm holes. The associate/tailor would then write down needed adjustments.

2. Choose fabric.

3. Customize. In the MTM binder there are dozens of adjustments you can make, including basic ones like lowering/raising the buttoning point, types of pockets on coat, width of lapel, after-dinner split, etc… Then there are advanced-level adjustments like requesting a trouser with a Hollywood waist band (!). It’s pretty fun actually.

4. Then the suit is delivered in about 4-6 weeks, and they make final adjustments in-store.

I’m happy with the process. But it helps to have an associate with lots of experience. And the Canadian dollar is tanking right now, so it’s a good opportunity to take advantage of it if you’re in the U.S.

 

[othertravel]

that looks pretty good, can they add roping or that's too far off pattern

There is one fit called ‘Richard’ which has some roping. May try that as well.