Luxury clothes of the past

[clee1982]

does G&H still have a single DNA, i was told based on who cut it it kind divergent (and by the way I like David Taub’s stuff just not sure if it has a consistency “look” overtime even account for time evolving)?

personally for structured stuff my favorite is Michael Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan doesn’t come to US anymore else I would consider a favorite too just based on what I have seen.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Good point, I guess for comparison against the Savile Row firms we should be looking at the English styles.

For English drape I've seen pictures and discussions of disappointing commissions from A&S in the bespoke thread, so I guess the top tailors in this category may include Steven Hitchcock, Steed (also seems to be quite debatable based on discussions in this forum), Redmayne - none of which are based on Savile Row.

But for English structured style I was under the impression that Huntsman, Gieves & Hawkes, and Richard Anderson are still among the top? Of course open to being corrected by more experienced members though, I'm not very interested in this style so I never dug too deep.

Off-topic but who do you think are the top Neapolitan tailors? I know you commission a lot from Pastena (I quite like the extended but soft shoulders you have him make for you), and Crispyj has probably tried more than I could possibly name.

I don’t think it makes sense just to compare tailoring overall to one region. But I also don’t think it is super helpful to try and compare tailors who do different things to one another for any practical reasons. For theoretical reasons sure. But that’s like saying is the person who makes the best barbecue vs the person who makes the best French pastries better.

For me - I think Michael Browne is doing the best structured stuff I’ve seen out there right now. I like my Sexton but Michael Browne is on a new level that’s crazy. Davide Taub always looks pretty good as well.

I think Steven Hitchcock is doing the best looking drape. If it was a few years ago, (how has it already been a decade?) I really like my A&S that Hitchcock’s dad cut. He was a legend on the Row.

Poole is classic for the basic English cut.

Kotoro with Corcos in Florence I don’t think I’ve ever seen something leave his hands that isn’t perfect.

Naples - For me Paone and Zizolfi are both up there consistently.

Ivy has to be Caid.

But for me a bespoke relationship is about more than just the clothes or something robotic. I really enjoy the friendships I make with my makers and the experience. For that reason I love working with Antonio and won’t leave him for another Neapolitan tailor - I’m also really happy with the pattern we’ve come up with together. After almost 20 or so commissions with him I see no reason to move on.

 

[clee1982]

Didn’t realize you have anything from Edward Sexton, not sure where it is heading now Edward has passed and Nina just left hope they stabilize.

 

[epsilon22]

MB's stuffs are really good looking, but stylistically a bit too extreme for my current tastes. I can easily see myself wearing something from Huntsman, RA, or probably even some of the less extreme Sexton jackets, but I don't think I can pull off MB haha.

Steven Hitchcock is probably the most likely pick among the English tailors for me if I were to go bespoke. His jackets just look good and balanced to my eyes, without looking too striking.

 

[JohnMRobie]

MB's stuffs are really good looking, but stylistically a bit too extreme for my current tastes. I can easily see myself wearing something from Huntsman, RA, or probably even some of the less extreme Sexton jackets, but I don't think I can pull off MB haha.

Steven Hitchcock is probably the most likely pick among the English tailors for me if I were to go bespoke. His jackets just look good and balanced to my eyes, without looking too striking.

If you’re into a slightly more modern and less stylized cut I’d give Caroline Andrews a look.

 

[clee1982]

he is ex huntsman, and locally accessible (NYC), not 100% sure I’m sold on it but I do like his DB

Ralph Fitzgerald (@ralph_fitzgerald_) • Instagram photos and videos

2,146 Followers, 1,027 Following, 192 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Ralph Fitzgerald (@ralph_fitzgerald_)

www.instagram.com

 

[clee1982]

And I don’t think all of the MB has to be so dramatic, this is his (rare) notch lapel, personally I intended to wear my peak lapel to office anyway

 

[DapperDan15]

What even is luxury these days? If that can be answered it may help end this debate.

To me, I think an element of excessiveness has to be part of its definition.

 

[double00]

To me, I think an element of excessiveness has to be part of its definition.

in terms of textile / apparel probably the most luxurious single thing i've ever owned was an Hermes jacquard woven silk carre .

outside of clothing i'd probably go with my gibson a-5 snakehead mandolin . amazingly appointed down to the Waverly tuning machines .

i could go on but I don't want to blow up my spots ha .

 

[JohnMRobie]

What even is luxury these days? If that can be answered it may help end this debate.

It means so many different things to different people that it’s probably unanswerable.

My not Styleforum approved and sappy year end answer is that true luxury is something you can’t actually purchase.

You can buy craftsmanship, you can buy high quality, you can buy exclusivity, you can buy experiences but I don’t think you can actually buy luxury.

 

[double00]

It means so many different things to different people that it’s probably unanswerable.

My not Styleforum approved and sappy year end answer is that true luxury is something you can’t actually purchase.

You can buy craftsmanship, you can buy high quality, you can buy exclusivity, you can buy experiences but I don’t think you can actually buy luxury.

hard disagree . luxury abounds if you have the sense to perceive it .

 

[JohnMRobie]

hard disagree . luxury abounds if you have the sense to perceive it .

Sense isn’t something you can buy, is it?

 

[double00]

Sense isn’t something you can buy, is it?

you can buy luxury . sense is earned

 

[JohnMRobie]

you can buy luxury . sense is earned

One of these days you’ll be able to afford to buy a capital letter or two.

 

[double00]

One of these days you’ll be able to afford to buy a capital letter or two.

another forum grammarian yawn .

so what is your most luxurious material possession ?