Los Angeles Suiting

[gimpwiz]

I suspect that by its nature, lower-end RTW/OTR has to follow trends to some degree, which probably makes it less "timeless." I suspect that "timeless" really means "well-executed but middle-of-the-road design."

IE, for a jacket, not too slim but not boxy; a bit of drape but not much; a bit of shoulder padding but not much; natural shoulders, or mildly roped, but maybe not shirt-sleeve; medium-width lapels; medium-high gorge; two-button or maybe 3-roll-2; flapped pockets but maybe no ticket pocket; two vents; just barely covers the butt; well-structured, but not too structured, and not close to unstructured; a classic cloth color (darker gray or navy) in a classic weave and a classic micro-pattern or no pattern; four button sleeves; and with less waist suppression, though maybe not an actual sack cut, etc. For pants, probably something between mid- and high-rise, modest taper, fairly full, probably single pleat, half- or full break, with interior buttons for braces and your choice of belt loops or side adjusters, and cut generously enough to need it. Does that roughly describe what you're looking for, OP?

But to find _all_ of that OTR is always a bit hard. Today's style is more on the slim-fit side, and with smaller lapels, and more waist suppression. Many makers are doing shirt-sleeve shoulders, almost no shoulder padding, less structure, less / no drape, and shorter. For pants, probably mid-low rise today, fairly slim, quite tapered, and with no break or mild break, and often without buttons for braces. That's what people want so that's what makers make. Especially at the lower end of the budget.

 

[matthewhmb]

I suspect that by its nature, lower-end RTW/OTR has to follow trends to some degree, which probably makes it less "timeless." I suspect that "timeless" really means "well-executed but middle-of-the-road design."

IE, for a jacket, not too slim but not boxy; a bit of drape but not much; a bit of shoulder padding but not much; natural shoulders, or mildly roped, but maybe not shirt-sleeve; medium-width lapels; medium-high gorge; two-button or maybe 3-roll-2; flapped pockets but maybe no ticket pocket; two vents; just barely covers the butt; well-structured, but not too structured, and not close to unstructured; a classic cloth color (darker gray or navy) in a classic weave and a classic micro-pattern or no pattern; four button sleeves; and with less waist suppression, though maybe not an actual sack cut, etc. For pants, probably something between mid- and high-rise, modest taper, fairly full, probably single pleat, half- or full break, with interior buttons for braces and your choice of belt loops or side adjusters, and cut generously enough to need it. Does that roughly describe what you're looking for, OP?

But to find _all_ of that OTR is always a bit hard. Today's style is more on the slim-fit side, and with smaller lapels, and more waist suppression. Many makers are doing shirt-sleeve shoulders, almost no shoulder padding, less structure, less / no drape, and shorter. For pants, probably mid-low rise today, fairly slim, quite tapered, and with no break or mild break, and often without buttons for braces. That's what people want so that's what makers make. Especially at the lower end of the budget.

Pretty much summing it up pretty well. Reading that pant description is exactly what makes my skin crawl. Low rise, slim & tapered, not a good look for I. But I guess maybe I have to just spend more then I planned on something that is not intended for much wear or really dig deep and find pre owned.

 

[gimpwiz]

Get trousers from Korea, they're doing full-full-full cut, no taper at all, full break, super in style right now.

Check out Ralph Lauren. I've seen some of their stuff have full cuts. Like if my usual tapered cut gets me to a ~7.25-7.5inch hem, they're making stuff that's like 2 inches wider at the ankle.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

I really am looking for something that is timeless. I do not want a contemporary slim fit suit that I feel I see way too much of. I would say my normal day to day look consists of a nice roomy but well fit straight leg chino pant or a relaxed pair of good denim(hatski lately) generally and a good fitting quality tee(lady white etc.) In these colder days I would be adding in a wool sweater/cardigan and a barbour jacket. Everything I lean towards is timeless jm wesson loafers, some paraboots or 70s chuck taylors. Currently my go to suit is a pretty classic fitting Dries navy wool 2 button but I need definitely something lighter and not navy upcoming. A dark brown would be ideal.

But you are right retail for mens clothing in Los Angeles has not been impressive and there definitely is the problem of who they are catering to.

I'm a bit puzzled now. Dries puts out some creative stuff but to my eye at least it's very fashion-y and not exactly timeless; his stuff in stores now reminds me of 90's nonsense which we made fun of all through 2010-2020 or so (while at the same time we over-corrected with stuff that was a size too small). Is that kind of like...your point of frustration right now, that we're all still in the shadow of the super slim craze? I'm guessing this because the stuff you say you like all tend to be worn biggish (sweaters, barbour, paraboots, etc.), and you specifically said no to SuSu, which is notorious for strangling their customers' balls systematically.

I'd say if you want to go shopping around OTR, you'll need to avoid the lower to lower-middle end, which as @gimpwiz mentioned is still reflecting this dying trend of super slim, and look at Neiman, Bloomies, Saks. This is about as LA as it gets, right? But this is going to be more than $1000. Hickey Freeman and HSM at Nordstrom also never really got into the slim-suit craze and are around your budget or cheaper even, and I like their fits as happy mediums, though they might not have a brown specifically at any given moment.

 

[matthewhmb]

I'm a bit puzzled now. Dries puts out some creative stuff but to my eye at least it's very fashion-y and not exactly timeless; his stuff in stores now reminds me of 90's nonsense which we made fun of all through 2010-2020 or so (while at the same time we over-corrected with stuff that was a size too small). Is that kind of like...your point of frustration right now, that we're all still in the shadow of the super slim craze? I'm guessing this because the stuff you say you like all tend to be worn biggish (sweaters, barbour, paraboots, etc.), and you specifically said no to SuSu, which is notorious for strangling their customers' balls systematically.

I'd say if you want to go shopping around OTR, you'll need to avoid the lower to lower-middle end, which as @gimpwiz mentioned is still reflecting this dying trend of super slim, and look at Neiman, Bloomies, Saks. This is about as LA as it gets, right? But this is going to be more than $1000. Hickey Freeman and HSM at Nordstrom also never really got into the slim-suit craze and are around your budget or cheaper even, and I like their fits as happy mediums, though they might not have a brown specifically at any given moment.

The Dries I have is some years old at this point and came across is in store and it was a nice fitting not slim cut. But yeah it just seems what I am looking for doesn't exist in abundance by any means or in a price point I was originally targeting.