shoefan
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2003
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Regarding the issue of foot scans, 3D printers, etc. I believe that it is/could be feasible to create a scanning/'artificial intelligence' system that could generate 'bespoke' lasts. The issue is not whether it is, conceptually, feasible, but rather whether it will happen, and I would suggest that it won't happen for a long time, if ever. The cost and challenges inherent in creating such a system are substantial, and there is likely to be a pretty small market for such a product if it were developed. Most people are reasonably satisfied with their existing shoes, and the cost and complexity of making shoes on customized lasts and then shoes on those lasts would be far more than most people would be willing to pay. Contrast this with artificial intelligence/learning systems in the context of medical care. Unlike shoes, current medical care is expert intensive, the cost of that human expertise (doctors) is high, and the impact of human error can be huge. Further, the benefits of scale economies/fixed costs from automated solutions could be profound. So, there are both cost and potential quality benefits to such a system.
Now, the question of what, in the context of shoes, is 'bespoke.' In my opinion, bespoke shoes are fundamentally dependent on having a customized/personalized last, be it made from a block of wood, last 'blank,' or an altered factory last. Typically, because a shoe pattern should be made based on the exact last on which the shoe will be made, the shoe pattern, and hence upper, will be made from scratch as well, but I can see a 'bespoke' shoe being offered in only certain styles, which would allow more efficient pattern creation as some parts of the pattern can use standard patterns.
The particular technologies/techniques used in the production of the shoe (hand welted vs. GYW vs Blake, hand sewn vs machine sewn vs glued outsole, hand clicked vs. laser cut, etc) seem to me to be less applicable to whether or not the shoe is 'bespoke,' although these differences will clearly influence the desirability of such a shoe. IMO, the notion is the same as the notion of what is a bespoke suit -- I would suggest it is the creation of a unique pattern for the customer, based on the customer's measurements, desires, etc. How that suit is then sewn (fused vs. half canvas vs. full canvas, machine pad-stitched vs. hand pad-stitched, etc) doesn't affect whether the suit is bespoke, though the differences will clearly affect the perceived value of such an offering.
Now, the question of what, in the context of shoes, is 'bespoke.' In my opinion, bespoke shoes are fundamentally dependent on having a customized/personalized last, be it made from a block of wood, last 'blank,' or an altered factory last. Typically, because a shoe pattern should be made based on the exact last on which the shoe will be made, the shoe pattern, and hence upper, will be made from scratch as well, but I can see a 'bespoke' shoe being offered in only certain styles, which would allow more efficient pattern creation as some parts of the pattern can use standard patterns.
The particular technologies/techniques used in the production of the shoe (hand welted vs. GYW vs Blake, hand sewn vs machine sewn vs glued outsole, hand clicked vs. laser cut, etc) seem to me to be less applicable to whether or not the shoe is 'bespoke,' although these differences will clearly influence the desirability of such a shoe. IMO, the notion is the same as the notion of what is a bespoke suit -- I would suggest it is the creation of a unique pattern for the customer, based on the customer's measurements, desires, etc. How that suit is then sewn (fused vs. half canvas vs. full canvas, machine pad-stitched vs. hand pad-stitched, etc) doesn't affect whether the suit is bespoke, though the differences will clearly affect the perceived value of such an offering.
Doh!
