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TheObserver

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I think the Margiela jacket above is uglier. But I see it got a few likes so what do I know.

They are both ugly. The Takoda could be worn by dudes who want a cheap leather and know nothing about clothing. I swear I saw dudes wearing something like that at the mall. That Margiela, however, is unwearable.
 
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dieworkwear

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That Margiela, however, is unwearable. 


Clothes aren't always meant to be make you look cool at an office party though. Just like how not every painting is meant to decorate your mantel. Sometimes people enjoy things for artistic concept, and those concepts exist on their own terms -- beyond practical use value. People don't go into art museums to get interior design ideas.

It's fine to say you don't care for conceptual designs, but to say they're unwearable misses the point because they're not meant for everyday people to wear.

See for example the McQueen Savage Beauty art exhibit. IMO, this is one of the "easier" conceptual designers for non-fashion people to appreciate. Obviously, a lot of this stuff isn't meant for you to wear while going to the grocery store, but ... isn't it obviously beautiful and enjoyable?

http://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/

its also actually a womans jacket and 
It's also actually a woman's jacket, and a rather revealing one at that.


Some other cool concept MMM leathers:

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Ragechester

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Margiela AW 13 now this might be termed unwearable, I mean I wouldn't at least.

But that flat deconstructed thing has a very feminine cut. I think its on eBay right now for your lady.
 

ChrisGold

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I’m planning to buy a J100. Considering the Aero Board Racer, the Simmons Bilt’s Cafe Racer or the Real McCoy’s Buco J-100. They all look good on the respective websites. The Real McCoy jacket is twice as expensive as the other jackets. I wonder if it is twice as good too.

Does anybody know how they compare quality wise?

Also had a look at a similar jacket fro Lewis Leather; it's quite nice, but the big logo on the chest is not my thing.


Real McCoy's has long been the gold standard of J-100s, very high quality and Shinki Horsehide. If you went stitch by stitch and also compared the Shinki to other leathers, then most would probably agree that it's a higher quality. On the other hand, if you ordered an Aero in their Vincenza leather, then it becomes a debate as to whether the difference is worth the $. I don't think the collar on the Simmons Bilt looks good, at all...

Diamond Dave is a relative newcomer who is mentored by John Chapman of Goodwear, and he makes a very very attractively priced J-100 replica. You can search around, as he has reviews running from glowing to disappointment. I own one that came out great, but I've also owned an Aero Board Racer that was very top notch. It's worth looking through a lot of pictures, as patterns do differ between the companies.
 

robxznyc

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This nubuck bomber jacket WLG by Giorgio Brato is the best leather jacket I've owned at a steal price of $260. Been looking for a suede jacket for a while, but gladly found this one made of supple nubuck that has the same look and feel but superior quality. It's also fully lined with a black cotton sherpa fleece that resembles shearling. Love it's versatility, classic and low key style.

 
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LA Guy

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They have some of their jackets that come in a "premier" fit. That is a slimmer cut, higher arm holes, etc... they also have the STF Bootlegger, which is a tight fit design. Otherwise, they generally keep the shoulder width and sleeve diameters the same, and alter things like jacket and sleeve length, as well as tapering in or out to the waist measurement.
Aero used to do a lot of one off jackets, and I also know of cases where they have switched out the sleeve of one jacket for that of another until fairly recently, (http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-leather-custom-order-help.69277/#post-1577497), but I don't know if they do that sort of customization any more.
 

ChrisGold

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Aero used to do a lot of one off jackets, and I also know of cases where they have switched out the sleeve of one jacket for that of another until fairly recently, (http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-leather-custom-order-help.69277/#post-1577497), but I don't know if they do that sort of customization any more.


My understanding is that the Calders were not happy with some of the jackets that went out the door previously which were designed by customers but would wear the Aero label. It's not always a good recipe. They will still do some interesting custom jackets, but they seem to exercise much more veto power. On the other hand, over the last two years they have released many new jackets and there have been some additional jackets that were designed for Thurston. There are still a lot of things in play, such as zippers, pockets, etc... but they are much more judicious in what they will allow.
 

LA Guy

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My understanding is that the Calders were not happy with some of the jackets that went out the door previously which were designed by customers but would wear the Aero label. It's not always a good recipe. They will still do some interesting custom jackets, but they seem to exercise much more veto power. On the other hand, over the last two years they have released many new jackets and there have been some additional jackets that were designed for Thurston. There are still a lot of things in play, such as zippers, pockets, etc... but they are much more judicious in what they will allow.
Makes a lot of sense, haivng sat on both sides of that fence. It seems to me that true collaborations would be interesting, though probably impractically difficult, since not all customers can understand and respect a brand, nor have the knowledge base to create see a decent design in their mind's eye.

it would be cool to design a leather jacket with Ken Calder as a guide though. I can see something in the line of a William Gibson/Buzz Rickson collaboration - aka reinventing history, literally.
 

ChrisGold

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Makes a lot of sense, haivng sat on both sides of that fence.  It seems to me that true collaborations would be interesting, though probably impractically difficult, since not all customers can understand and respect a brand, nor have the knowledge base to create see a decent design in their mind's eye.  

it would be cool to design a leather jacket with Ken Calder as a guide though.  I can see something in the line of a William Gibson/Buzz Rickson collaboration - aka reinventing history, literally.


There were some really bad jackets that went out the door when Will was running things. I can't think of a better designer to work through a historical remake than Ken. I don't think that he and guys like John Chapman get enough credit for their design work. You don't appreciate what goes into what are seemingly simple jackets until you see other companies do it poorly.

Ken has been designing leathers for a very long time, every time I see this picture it reminds me of a 5-zip. I'm too young to remember when she hit it big in the early 70s, but Suzy's cat suit is one of the most famous rock and roll leathers of all time, and became her persona. I think there were a lot of young boys in the 70s that owe him a bit of thanks.

700
 

Benesyed

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