Le De Bonne Facture Thread

[Strumbeck]

Thanks for all the replies guys, really helpful to hear everyone’s opinion.

Here’s another pic with a chunky knit as requested (I was wearing a pretty thin polo in the original).
View attachment 2065563

Still on the fence a bit as I kind of agree with every opinion so far, but maybe it’s just a matter of getting used to the voluminous nature of it. The sleeves definitely should get shortened a bit though. I think that’ll clean it up.

The coat and fit looks great on you, I often look for longer coats, can be very hard to find.
Don’t shorten the total length, it seems very risky, just shorten the arms.

 

[superpotato]

Thanks for all the replies guys, really helpful to hear everyone’s opinion.

Here’s another pic with a chunky knit as requested (I was wearing a pretty thin polo in the original).
View attachment 2065563

Still on the fence a bit as I kind of agree with every opinion so far, but maybe it’s just a matter of getting used to the voluminous nature of it. The sleeves definitely should get shortened a bit though. I think that’ll clean it up.

I love oversized slouchy coats but when the sleeves are that long I would consider sizing down. My absolute maximum for sleeve length is middle of palm.

 

[Donut]

I hear everyone on sizing down but unfortunately, I probably can't afford to get this jacket brand new on my current budget. A tailor will probably have to be the in-between option. I do have short arms even relative to my height (t-rex) so this is often an issue on most shirts and jackets I buy in my size. I did wear the coat today and am starting to really enjoy the length. It just feels so "grand", for a lack of a better word, when you walk and it flows.

Again, thanks everyone for the opinions!

 

[jtorres94]

I hear everyone on sizing down but unfortunately, I probably can't afford to get this jacket brand new on my current budget. A tailor will probably have to be the in-between option. I do have short arms even relative to my height (t-rex) so this is often an issue on most shirts and jackets I buy in my size. I did wear the coat today and am starting to really enjoy the length. It just feels so "grand", for a lack of a better word, when you walk and it flows.

Again, thanks everyone for the opinions!

Shorten the sleeves, pop the collar to have the jacket frame you even better and wear with chunky knits, then you’re set. But if you’re still not honestly comfortable, sell the coat and get something you’re confident in.

 

[hpreston]

I agree. The coat comes just past the knees in the selfies posted by @Donut above. Similar to these:

• Picture of Ralph Lauren and his two buddies in the piece by @dieworkwear
• The Balmaccan by Huntsman
• The first painting of the guy in a polo coat, hat, and bowtie, in this article at The Gentleman's Gazette.

Yes, all of this, I would also compare it toooooooo;

The DBF page for the Grandad coat, showing a longer (below the knee) length:

Thanks for all the replies guys, really helpful to hear everyone’s opinion.

Here’s another pic with a chunky knit as requested (I was wearing a pretty thin polo in the original).
View attachment 2065563

Still on the fence a bit as I kind of agree with every opinion so far, but maybe it’s just a matter of getting used to the voluminous nature of it. The sleeves definitely should get shortened a bit though. I think that’ll clean it up.

Yes, overall, it looks good. Shorten the sleeves a bit, then wear it and enjoy it.

I love oversized slouchy coats but when the sleeves are that long I would consider sizing down. My absolute maximum for sleeve length is middle of palm.

Why size down when shoulders and chest fit well, shortening sleeves is an easy alteration.

I hear everyone on sizing down but unfortunately, I probably can't afford to get this jacket brand new on my current budget. A tailor will probably have to be the in-between option. I do have short arms even relative to my height (t-rex) so this is often an issue on most shirts and jackets I buy in my size. I did wear the coat today and am starting to really enjoy the length. It just feels so "grand", for a lack of a better word, when you walk and it flows.

Again, thanks everyone for the opinions!

Shorten the sleeves, pop the collar to have the jacket frame you even better and wear with chunky knits, then you’re set. But if you’re still not honestly comfortable, sell the coat and get something you’re confident in.

At the end of the day, ^^ this is the answer.

 

[LatAm]

I would also add, I'm all in for a longer coat, love that look myself, but the pockets look kind of low relative to your waist, so perhaps there is a risk that even if you have the sleeves shortened, it will still look like you borrowed the coat from someone taller.

Edited to add: Also second @jtorres94 and @hpreston: beware the "it was such a great bargain I have to make it work somehow" trap. Have made that mistake myself, got something altered (also Team T-Rex arms!) but never felt right wearing it and then much harder to sell it on.

Possibly you might decide in the end it's just not right for you. So don't rush into a decision, plenty of Winter months left to sell it on (especially if unaltered) if you eventually go that route.

 

[scottcw]

They did not bump prices, they just no longer deduct VAT at checkout for the USA like they used to. If you purchase something for example from Canada, VAT is still deducted.

The de minimis value for the US is $800, so anything over that you will pay duty in the United States as well. It's pretty easy to spend over $800 (especially now that things cost 20% more), so essentially I am being double taxed for items I purchase from the DBF webshop. This would be a non-issue if I could purchase from their US retailers, but there are many items that can't be found in the US or are webshop exclusives.

I understand the reasoning, and this is probably petty of me, but it leaves a sour taste in my mouth that I just unexpectedly had to pay a combined $300 in taxes and duties on a $650 purchase.

I always thought that VAT had to be deducted when shipping to the US. VAT only applies to sales in the EU/UK, yes? I can file to get VAT refunded when I travel to the UK and buy in person.

 

[DoubleDouble]

It also depends a lot on climate and the rest of your wardrobe.

For example, I wouldn't want a coat I'm forced to only wear with chunky sweaters, because I don't own another coat, and I want my one coat to be versatile. And I live in California, I can wear a heavy coat + chunky sweater for 1–2 weeks a year.

 

[metamodernman]

I always thought that VAT had to be deducted when shipping to the US. VAT only applies to sales in the EU/UK, yes? I can file to get VAT refunded when I travel to the UK and buy in person.

I notice that VAT is calculated in a seperate "tax" line item when I specify an EU delivery, but with a US delivery, it just increases the overall price itself to the same amount as price + VAT, without the seperate "tax" line item. I would characterize this as a price increase for US deliveries.

 

[Donut]

I would also add, I'm all in for a longer coat, love that look myself, but the pockets look kind of low relative to your waist, so perhaps there is a risk that even if you have the sleeves shortened, it will still look like you borrowed the coat from someone taller.

Edited to add: Also second @jtorres94 and @hpreston: beware the "it was such a great bargain I have to make it work somehow" trap. Have made that mistake myself, got something altered (also Team T-Rex arms!) but never felt right wearing it and then much harder to sell it on.

Possibly you might decide in the end it's just not right for you. So don't rush into a decision, plenty of Winter months left to sell it on (especially if unaltered) if you eventually go that route.

Totally agree. I've really honed in on that point in the second paragraph over the years as I've definitely wasted money on a fair share of beautiful things that just don't work because it never felt right to wear. I've also had a couple things become my favorite items after a minor alteration. I will say that I think that the chest and shoulders would be too slim if I sized down (akin to those Division Road model shots that have been posted), especially because I'll be wearing sweaters/flannels/jackets under this 80% of the time.

Think I'll keep the coat and take it to the tailor and just see how the sleeve looks slightly shortened. I don't plan to chop off a huge amount as I'm mindful of the silhouette as everyone has mentioned. I'll hold off on an actual length alteration though as I'm kind of digging it. The different fit pics quoted above are super helpful. That grandad coat shot from DBF is actually sort of how it actually sits on me now.

It also depends a lot on climate and the rest of your wardrobe.

For example, I wouldn't want a coat I'm forced to only wear with chunky sweaters, because I don't own another coat, and I want my one coat to be versatile. And I live in California, I can wear a heavy coat + chunky sweater for 1–2 weeks a year.

This is where its a benefit to live in Canada. At least I can look cool 4-6 months of the year while freezing my balls off.

 

[ppk]

Totally agree. I've really honed in on that point in the second paragraph over the years as I've definitely wasted money on a fair share of beautiful things that just don't work because it never felt right to wear. I've also had a couple things become my favorite items after a minor alteration. I will say that I think that the chest and shoulders would be too slim if I sized down (akin to those Division Road model shots that have been posted), especially because I'll be wearing sweaters/flannels/jackets under this 80% of the time.

Think I'll keep the coat and take it to the tailor and just see how the sleeve looks slightly shortened. I don't plan to chop off a huge amount as I'm mindful of the silhouette as everyone has mentioned. I'll hold off on an actual length alteration though as I'm kind of digging it. The different fit pics quoted above are super helpful. That grandad coat shot from DBF is actually sort of how it actually sits on me now.


This is where its a benefit to live in Canada. At least I can look cool 4-6 months of the year while freezing my balls off.

I have the DBF grandad coat, and it looks exactly like that on me and I'm 6' (183 cm).

 

[K. Nights]

I always thought that VAT had to be deducted when shipping to the US. VAT only applies to sales in the EU/UK, yes? I can file to get VAT refunded when I travel to the UK and buy in person.

I notice that VAT is calculated in a seperate "tax" line item when I specify an EU delivery, but with a US delivery, it just increases the overall price itself to the same amount as price + VAT, without the seperate "tax" line item. I would characterize this as a price increase for US deliveries.

There is technically no law that they have to deduct VAT. If it's not deducted, the vendor just pockets the extra amount, since it does not need to be provided to the government. So yes, effectively just a price increase for US customers.

 

[scottcw]

So much for buying anything direct from DbF. I will wait for domestic sales. I've never heard of any other vendor doing this.

 

[puller_mica]

So much for buying anything direct from DbF. I will wait for domestic sales. I've never heard of any other vendor doing this.

Unsure of your location, but the price increase will likely not get resolved with US purchases. I asked them about this back in September and it seems their partnership with Nordstrom necessitated the DBF price change (20% increase site-wide).

 

[DoubleDouble]

It's either this or they don't ship direct, like Kapital and others. I'm more than happy to support DBF directly tbh.