• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

New Shoes1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
4,743
Reaction score
3,987
Doesn't this collusion defeat the purpose of the referral credit: bringing in new business that might not otherwise know about KW?
 

WillingToLearn

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2014
Messages
1,580
Reaction score
1,481

Doesn't this collusion defeat the purpose of the referral credit:  bringing in new business that might not otherwise know about KW?


Agreed, I find this to be a tad unsavory. Got a PM about a similar setup and passed
 

afterthesuit

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2014
Messages
1,682
Reaction score
12,100
I just placed my first order, because I found them to be highly recommended on this forum and active in this thread... which is why they pay for affiliate status.
 

New Shoes1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
4,743
Reaction score
3,987
I took some pictures this past week of my most recent jacket from this Summer as I get ready for my next order. I was contemplating the price splurge of Steed to see if they can improve on specific fit issues when it occurred to me that my KW fit is fairly decent and I am likely over-obsessing over the closed quarters and other fit issues (I'd like a lower buttoning point than the KW pattern allows and I always need to take it to a local tailor to clean up the back as I've maxed out the amount the back can be taken in at the blades). Not looking for praise on the fit (as others have had better results with KW) but more of a sanity check on the fit. To be fair to KW, I have fit/posture issues that go well beyond online MTM's capabilities - as Despos once pointed out to me years ago while looking at pictures of a poor fitting suit - but a strong desire to keep my suit/sport coat budget at the KW level.

I lightened the pictures extensively to help with the lack of sunlight on the day the pictures were taken.











Threw a picture of the prior suit in for good measure.

 

venividivicibj

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
22,890
Reaction score
18,409
Talk to Aaron about the under armit/shoulderblade on the back, seems to be extra fabric or maybe your shoulder slope?
 

heldentenor

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
2,962
Reaction score
6,613
In total honesty, the only part of that fit I don't like is the back. KW doesn't cut a rounded quarter, but neither do a lot of tailors if that's a stylistic dealbreaker. Sleeve pitch is perfect and buttoning point is well within the balanced range (though I could see wanting to lower it a bit). If Aaron can't take in the upper back a bit without throwing off the balance, the question becomes whether you're willing to have the back of each successive jacket tailored or if that (and the preference on the quarters) is worth the price jump and the much slower process you will get with Steed.

I've debated the same question for slightly different reasons, and plan to use KW for the foreseeable, though I'd like to try Steed if opportunity permits.
 

New Shoes1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
4,743
Reaction score
3,987
Talk to Aaron about the under armit/shoulderblade on the back, seems to be extra fabric or maybe your shoulder slope?

Aaron recommended adjusting the shoulder slope to help with this issue, but I think this may be just how I was standing when the pictures were taken. I'm going to go back and look at older pictures to see if I see the same thing as the shoulders are generally pretty clean (and I do not want to mess with that). With regard to the blades, that is a fit/posture issue due to a chest that is disproportionately larger than my back combined with an erect posture. The pattern cannot be adjusted any more to address this, which is what I generally have my tailor clean up.

In total honesty, the only part of that fit I don't like is the back. KW doesn't cut a rounded quarter, but neither do a lot of tailors if that's a stylistic dealbreaker. Sleeve pitch is perfect and buttoning point is well within the balanced range (though I could see wanting to lower it a bit). If Aaron can't take in the upper back a bit without throwing off the balance, the question becomes whether you're willing to have the back of each successive jacket tailored or if that (and the preference on the quarters) is worth the price jump and the much slower process you will get with Steed.

I've debated the same question for slightly different reasons, and plan to use KW for the foreseeable, though I'd like to try Steed if opportunity permits.

Was about to respond to this, but noticed I need to run to catch a train. Will respond in a little bit.
 

New Shoes1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
4,743
Reaction score
3,987
In total honesty, the only part of that fit I don't like is the back. KW doesn't cut a rounded quarter, but neither do a lot of tailors if that's a stylistic dealbreaker. Sleeve pitch is perfect and buttoning point is well within the balanced range (though I could see wanting to lower it a bit). If Aaron can't take in the upper back a bit without throwing off the balance, the question becomes whether you're willing to have the back of each successive jacket tailored or if that (and the preference on the quarters) is worth the price jump and the much slower process you will get with Steed.

I've debated the same question for slightly different reasons, and plan to use KW for the foreseeable, though I'd like to try Steed if opportunity permits.

I think this is generally where I'm at currently. With Steed coming to Chicago in January, I've been giving this significant thought and am leaning towards staying with KW. One reason is that Steed MTM has dropped into my price range with the diminished pound, but that is not going to last forever and going with Steed should be an ongoing relationship, not a one-time thing. I'm also starting to question why I'm so fixated on how the quarters look when I tend to wear the jacket unbuttoned as well as how much the back really bugs me when I'm wearing the jacket (as opposed to looking at pictures of it on SF). Still thinking through all this, but I think I'm coming out with KW being good enough and the law of diminishing returns arguing against the Steed upgrade. Still a work in progress, though.

Then again, if @Murlsquirl posts more Steed pictures, I may swing the other way.
 

New Shoes1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
4,743
Reaction score
3,987
I agree with Held. I like that fit. It has a boxy American look to it. Very retro, very cool.

Thanks. The boxier fit is a result of adding fabric to the chest, waist and back to avoid the pulling I used to see at the buttoning point, the lapel bowing and the pulling in the lower back right above the vent. I'm not sure it was what I was aiming for, but it certainly is where I'm at nowadays.

Here was my first MTM suit with KW, which was much more form fitting for better robo poses, but add a phone, a card wallet or a pocket square and the lapel bowed. I do not wear it as much because it is so tight if I have anything in the pockets.





 

New Shoes1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
4,743
Reaction score
3,987
Same jacket. Picture from tonight makes the back look cleaner (tailor cleaned it up a few weeks ago). I think posture really impacts how it looks.

400
 

scatterbrain

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2011
Messages
624
Reaction score
151
I took some pictures this past week of my most recent jacket from this Summer as I get ready for my next order. I was contemplating the price splurge of Steed to see if they can improve on specific fit issues when it occurred to me that my KW fit is fairly decent and I am likely over-obsessing over the closed quarters and other fit issues (I'd like a lower buttoning point than the KW pattern allows and I always need to take it to a local tailor to clean up the back as I've maxed out the amount the back can be taken in at the blades). Not looking for praise on the fit (as others have had better results with KW) but more of a sanity check on the fit. ...

As a five-year SF lurker, my opinion is that the overall fit is very, very good. I would assume it was a bespoke jacket based on balance and sleeve pitch (and, when I got up close, buttonholes). I see what you're saying about the quarters and buttoning point, but to an ordinary dude who spends [too many] hours on SF they are very minor IMHO. If you open up the quarters too much, aren't you going to get belt/shirt showing under the bottoning point? Do you care about that?

If you were to go to Steed, you might see some improvements, but there may also be drawbacks (particularly for first attempts). While steed works great for some people (Mr. Six jumps to mind, or is it Newcomer?) I find that Steed sometimes looks a little too hourglass-ey for my taste (particularly for people with wider hips, like me). See this archived thread: https://web.archive.org/web/2012011.../t/174558/poll-attolini-vs-rubinacci-vs-steed

Have you tried local bespoke people, if there are any where you live?
 
Last edited:

Semi Fly

Active Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2012
Messages
41
Reaction score
5
Posting here in hopes of reaching Kent as my e-mail wasn't answered. No biggie - holidays are tough
smile.gif


Any chance the white benchgrade sneakers come back in stock (very) soon or there's some extra inventory? Was hoping to rock these for an engagement shoot, but it's on Jan 22. I know it's a long shot, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Thanks!
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 97 36.7%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 95 36.0%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 32 12.1%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 44 16.7%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 40 15.2%

Forum statistics

Threads
507,556
Messages
10,596,883
Members
224,469
Latest member
sophiamichael
Top