Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[Encore]

I do not have any experience with his shoes. I would be interested if his prices were more favorable. As you mentioned, for that price point I rather do the aforementioned Yohei Fukuda, Hiro Yanagimachi, or Ann. Not even for "catching eyes", I would suggest a higher price point is commensurate with their experience and execution. Surprised that Koji Endo is not beginning slightly lower than that. If you are near Toronto, it would imply that you can come here to NY for some Japanese fittings. If that is the case, I encourage you to make your way here when Yanagimachi and Spigola are around.

Well, Marol's showroom is 5 minutes walking away from where I live, that's a huge plus for me. I never seen any of Japanese Bespoke work by my own eyes hence can't really compare the execution, but would definitely pay Koji a visit (I have a second fitting with Marol anyway) to see his work, just trying to gather some information

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Well, Marol's showroom is 5 minutes walking away from where I live, that's a huge plus for me. I never seen any of Japanese Bespoke work by my own eyes hence can't really compare the execution, but would definitely pay Koji a visit (I have a second fitting with Marol anyway) to see his work, just trying to gather some information

Well considering if that were the distance from my home, I can see the allure of a pair of shoes from him haha. Most definitely can not hurt to take a look. It costs you nothing to look, and gain all the experience complimentary.

 

[ecwy]

Looks like Koji Endo will be taking bespoke orders in toronto (with Marol)
3500 Eur first pair, 3000 onwards.

Anyone has experience with him? at this price point, I prefer Yohei Fukuda/ Hiro Yanagimachi/ Ann as they catch my eyes more.

I do not have any experience with his shoes. I would be interested if his prices were more favorable. As you mentioned, for that price point I rather do the aforementioned Yohei Fukuda, Hiro Yanagimachi, or Ann. Not even for "catching eyes", I would suggest a higher price point is commensurate with their experience and execution. Surprised that Koji Endo is not beginning slightly lower than that. If you are near Toronto, it would imply that you can come here to NY for some Japanese fittings. If that is the case, I encourage you to make your way here when Yanagimachi and Spigola are around.

If you check his website, Koji Endo's prices in Japan are 350k yen for first pair including last making fee. And that is recently raised 2x if I am not wrong. Usually, this indicates he has too many orders. Trunk shows cost more because the host has to take some cut.

He is not a "beginner" as you imply and I believe he started earlier than Ann even. Endo san first learnt shoe making at Guild of Crafts and subsequently trained with Delos in France and it tells in his work. Either you like it or you don't. He disappeared for a period of time (only took on new orders for existing clients) because he was supposed to move to Canada. There were permit issues and he ended up staying in Japan and "re-opened" for new customers. Maybe that is why you did not hear much about him.

Personally, I would not visit Spigola over any of the other names that have been mentioned. I have visited Endo san in Tokyo and he does all the work himself (last making, pattern making, closing, bottom making etc). In particular, his bottom work impresses.

 

[Encore]

If you check his website, Koji Endo's prices in Japan are 350k yen for first pair including last making fee. And that is recently raised 2x if I am not wrong. Usually, this indicates he has too many orders. Trunk shows cost more because the host has to take some cut.

He is not a "beginner" as you imply and I believe he started earlier than Ann even. Endo san first learnt shoe making at Guild of Crafts and subsequently trained with Delos in France and it tells in his work. Either you like it or you don't. He disappeared for a period of time (only took on new orders for existing clients) because he was supposed to move to Canada. There were permit issues and he ended up staying in Japan and "re-opened" for new customers. Maybe that is why you did not hear much about him.

Personally, I would not visit Spigola over any of the other names that have been mentioned. I have visited Endo san in Tokyo and he does all the work himself (last making, pattern making, closing, bottom making etc). In particular, his bottom work impresses.

Just to clarify, but saying "catch my eyes more", what I am trying to say is I like their pictures more, in terms of the last or design. However, I also understand the photos sometime over/ understate the product.

Also, I understand Japanese bespoke price raises significantly in the recent past, but raised 2x at one shot seems... strange to me. (Or is it normal?)

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

If you check his website, Koji Endo's prices in Japan are 350k yen for first pair including last making fee. And that is recently raised 2x if I am not wrong. Usually, this indicates he has too many orders. Trunk shows cost more because the host has to take some cut.

He is not a "beginner" as you imply and I believe he started earlier than Ann even. Endo san first learnt shoe making at Guild of Crafts and subsequently trained with Delos in France and it tells in his work. Either you like it or you don't. He disappeared for a period of time (only took on new orders for existing clients) because he was supposed to move to Canada. There were permit issues and he ended up staying in Japan and "re-opened" for new customers. Maybe that is why you did not hear much about him.

Personally, I would not visit Spigola over any of the other names that have been mentioned. I have visited Endo san in Tokyo and he does all the work himself (last making, pattern making, closing, bottom making etc). In particular, his bottom work impresses.

Well I definitely do not know him other than his work with Delos. Which is why I mentioned I did not have experience with his shoes. I stand by the sentiment of choosing to throw my money elsewhere given the price, as well as the styling. Of course, that is my personal opinion, and whom a person chooses as their shoemaker is entirely personal. Having said that, I did also suggest given the proximity from @Encore home; it could not hurt to give it a look since he is testing the waters

I actually like Spigola given I have seen his work. Having said that, notice I also did not put him in that class. I only suggested him as an option as a visiting Japanese shoemaker to New York. To be fair, I do not own his shoes so real-world knowledge of how the shoes react in actuality is based entirely on other people's experience.

In regards to Japanese makers I would love to try, in no sequential order, Yohei Fukuda, Kentaro Soyama, Eiji Murata (probably my number one on this list), the fine folks over at Marquess (Shoji and Yuriko Kawaguchi) (probably 1a on this list), Ann (probably 1B), and Tsuyoshi Ohon.

Yes I did say no sequential order but I have three on there..so what I lied..

 

[ecwy]

Just to clarify, but saying "catch my eyes more", what I am trying to say is I like their pictures more, in terms of the last or design. However, I also understand the photos sometime over/ understate the product.

Also, I understand Japanese bespoke price raises significantly in the recent past, but raised 2x at one shot seems... strange to me. (Or is it normal?)

I think he was underpriced like 1-1.5 years ago. I can't remember exactly when but it was 250k for the shoes at one point. I do recall he went up to 300k but didn't notice 350k till now hence why I said 2x. At his new price point, imo I don't think he is overpriced. It is the normal range of most Japanese bespoke makers (300-350k yen). He does charge for shoe tree, bevelled waist, fiddleback, toe plate etc. Some makers include shoe tree into base price. Also, his price includes tax (which could explain why it went to 350k as Japan consumption tax just got increased). Some prices you see are quoted without tax.

It might be worthwhile to ask what the EUR 3k trunk show price includes.

Hope that clarifies!

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

He does charge for shoe tree, bevelled waist, fiddleback, toe plate etc. Some makers include shoe tree into base price.

That is always something that is off-putting. You see the price, and begin to ponder, "not bad sub $3000". Then you inquire about shoe trees, get those beautifully sculpted waists, toe plates (because you know you need it), shipping, and then duties! That ponderance turns into incredulity. You then think, "goodness me $3700!".

Then you go back to the Instagram page for those eye popping masterpieces. Suddenly, not ordering out with your colleagues for lunch does not seem so bad after all. ?

 

[ecwy]

In regards to Japanese makers I would love to try, in no sequential order, Yohei Fukuda, Kentaro Soyama, Eiji Murata (probably my number one on this list), the fine folks over at Marquess (Shoji and Yuriko Kawaguchi) (probably 1a on this list), Ann (probably 1B), and Tsuyoshi Ohon.

Yes I did say no sequential order but I have three on there..so what I lied..

I have visited Soyama san, TYE for orders and collected a pair from Ann. I can definitely recommend all 3 of them. Ann and Soyama san are British trained if I recall right. If you need someone who speaks English, Soyama san speaks English and Ann has a colleague/business partner who speaks English.

Murata san I would love to have an order with but the length of time required for new orders plus number of visits put me off. I have seen his work from Thundermarch's collection and they look like they were made by a robot (in a good way). Very, very, very impressive.

I think the first question you should ask yourself is what type of design you like. Personally, I order designs that I feel are closer to what the maker does stylistically i.e. rather than try to make a French style shoe with a British trained maker. Having said that, my fellow shoe collector mate Thundermarch orders mainly classic designs whereas I usually go for something out of the norm.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I have visited Soyama san, TYE for orders and collected a pair from Ann. I can definitely recommend all 3 of them. Ann and Soyama san are British trained if I recall right. If you need someone who speaks English, Soyama san speaks English and Ann has a colleague/business partner who speaks English.

Murata san I would love to have an order with but the length of time required for new orders plus number of visits put me off. I have seen his work from Thundermarch's collection and they look like they were made by a robot (in a good way). Very, very, very impressive.

I think the first question you should ask yourself is what type of design you like. Personally, I order designs that I feel are closer to what the maker does stylistically i.e. rather than try to make a French style shoe with a British trained maker. Having said that, my fellow shoe collector mate Thundermarch orders mainly classic designs whereas I usually go for something out of the norm.

I could not agree more. Murata-San's pursuit of perfection entails multiple visits. Consequently you must add to my statement about pricing.

With follow up visits to Japan, you could be looking at a total of $7000 for those shoes. Those Fukuda RTW sure look better and better haha.

 

[daizawaguy]

Some polishing work this weekend

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Eiji Murata has stopped taking new customers again for now. He opened up a while this spring but when it was up to three years waiting time he again decided to stop accepting new clients. I’m waiting for my third pair which will be finished next year. Placed the order for that one last year. He really has way too much work. I have tried to convince him to put a bit less effort on his fitting shoes to keep time down on making those (he can still do two, but make them a bit more basic), we’ll se if he listens.

 

[dauster]

Well, Marol's showroom is 5 minutes walking away from where I live, that's a huge plus for me. I never seen any of Japanese Bespoke work by my own eyes hence can't really compare the execution, but would definitely pay Koji a visit (I have a second fitting with Marol anyway) to see his work, just trying to gather some information

Just discovered marol shirts but they also seem to make shoes by koji endo... did they just partner up I am trying to understand the connection between italian shirts and bespoke japanese shoes - if they still make it to san francisco that would be a cool one-stop-shop.

 

[Encore]

Just discovered marol shirts but they also seem to make shoes by koji endo... did they just partner up I am trying to understand the connection between italian shirts and bespoke japanese shoes - if they still make it to san francisco that would be a cool one-stop-shop.

Marol makes shirts only, they partner up with Pino Peluso for bespoke suits/ jackets, with Enzo Bonafe (MTO/ MTM mostly) and Koji Endo for shoes, Kaga (?) for ties

 

[dauster]

Marol makes shirts only, they partner up with Pino Peluso for bespoke suits/ jackets, with Enzo Bonafe (MTO/ MTM mostly) and Koji Endo for shoes, Kaga (?) for ties

excuse me for my confused follow-up but do they offer a one-stop shop at their trunk shows/ shops in Italy/ japan - or do they just promote each other brands?

 

[Encore]

excuse me for my confused follow-up but do they offer a one-stop shop at their trunk shows/ shops in Italy/ japan - or do they just promote each other brands?

Follow their Ins to see what exactly is offered at each Trunk show.
Pino is there most of time,
Marol can measure you for Enzo Bonafe MTO orders as well, I don't think anyone from EB travels with him.
Not so sure about Koji tho..
Never seen Kaga.