Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[sprout2]

Is that Marquess Round or Classic?

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Stefan: That's amazing service for sure! I like this new toe shape better toe, balances the rest of the quite long shoe and slim waist and heel better.

 

[Stefan88]

Is that Marquess Round or Classic?

It's based more off a marquess round, but I would say it's somewhere in the middle

Stefan: That's amazing service for sure! I like this new toe shape better toe, balances the rest of the quite long shoe and slim waist and heel better.

Takk I prefer this too

 

[ThinkDerm]



It's based more off a marquess round, but I would say it's somewhere in the middle
Takk I prefer this too

gorgeous. how much did he charge to change the last and relast the shoes?

 

[Stefan88]

gorgeous. how much did he charge to change the last and relast the shoes?

Nothing. There was another little something he had to correct, but I didn't realise the amount of extra work changing the toe shape meant.

 

[ThinkDerm]



Nothing. There was another little something he had to correct, but I didn't realise the amount of extra work changing the toe shape meant. 

Huge undertaking - could you document what he did? This is quite exciting and interesting!

 

[Lumaca]



JP shoe experts, there was a shop in Harajuku down the street from Harajuku station toward Shibuya. It was really small and they sold some RTW calfskin joints made in Asakusa as well as some Tricker's. Their shoes seemed like a step up from AE and were, I think, around 40,000 yen per pair, but I cannot remember the name for the life of me.

Anyone familiar?

I am pretty sure it's Trading post, which is a 2x5 store. If you have time, ask if there are any outlet sale coming up. I was super lucky to be there when they had one, and they had carminas and zonkey boots for between 30-40 thousand yen, but the best was definitely their house brand (trading post by carlos santos). I snagged a balmoral boot for 20.000 yen.

If I'm not mistaken, this particular branch is where all the sale last pieces go from all over japan.

 

[Stefan88]



Huge undertaking - could you document what he did? This is quite exciting and interesting!

He fastened the shank. Not sure what you call it, but it was loose.

In addition, as service, he relasted it to my more recent last with improved fit around the arch, and changed the shape of the toe (reshaping the toe puff completely).
To do this, the shoe had to be relasted, rewelted, and resolved with new sole stitching too, all done by hand.

 

[VRaivio]

ThinkDerm, re-lasting can be done to most leather shoes. There was an old, interesting RJman article on A Suitable Wardrobe back in the days, maybe it's been transferred to the new site as well. Arduous and expensive work, but worth it if you're attached to some shoes that you'd like to wear with a better fit.

 

[ThunderMarch]

He fastened this thing between the sole and insole. Not sure what you call it, but it was loose.

In addition, as service, he relasted it to my more recent later with improved fit around the arch, and changed the shape of the toe (reshaping the toe puff completely).
To do this, the shoe had to be relasted, rewelted, and resolved with new sole stitching too, all done by hand.

I think you're referring to the shank....
But yes, looks like he went through a tremendous amount of work indeed!

 

[Stefan88]



I think you're referring to the shank....
But yes, looks like he went through a tremendous amount of work indeed!

Thanks! Edited!

 

[ntempleman]

That's the beauty of hand welted shoes, as long as the upper is still in a good state you can strip them back to just the upper and remake them if necessary. It's also not uncommon to strip the upper and refront that, if the vamp has had it but the quarters are still ok. Although I wonder why anyone would go quite that far rather than just make a new upper, but they do.

 

[Wes Bourne]



That's the beauty of hand welted shoes, as long as the upper is still in a good state you can strip them back to just the upper and remake them if necessary. It's also not uncommon to strip the upper and refront that, if the vamp has had it but the quarters are still ok. Although I wonder why anyone would go quite that far rather than just make a new upper, but they do.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BH4RPVvBxPv/

 

[ntempleman]

Classic LSJ manoeuvre, seen a good few of those in my years there along with all manner of weird and wonderful restorations

 

[bengal-stripe]



Classic LSJ manoeuvre, seen a good few of those in my years there along with all manner of weird and wonderful restorations

Why didn't anyone advise that chap that something better could be done to his shoes?

That "restoration" is hardly 'weird and wonderful', just downright weird!