Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[clee1982]



A Visit to Tetsujiya, Tokyo

Shoemaker Ueda Tetsuji started his career designing shoes for Regal Corporation, and then knocked on the doors of Mannina in Firenze, Italy, spending 2 years as an apprentice. He opened his own atelier/shop at the present location (in the posh Ginza district) 8 years ago, and quickly set himself apart from the rest.

His collection features lots of big welts (Norvegese etc...) . He also favors Blake constructed shoes as a comfortable and relatively inexpensive option, esp. for 1st time clients (in the ¥40K range + ¥35K or so for the last) . Fascinatingly, he avoids welted shoes altogether ("the market is already saturated with them"), though he can do it if requested. His repertoire also includes sneakers and hiking boots, reflecting his motto of making bespoke shoes for every occasion.

Bespoke shoes for every occasion

A sturdy pair of full brogues with his signature Norvegese welt.

Red apron derby with chains.

Bespoke hiking boots with really big welts.

Blake constructed Sneakers in veg tanned leather from Himeji. The tan color looks quite beautiful, and should age gracefully.

Crane origami made from the same Himeji veg tanned leather. They look impossibly thin.

My thanks to Ueda-san (Tetsujiya)
HP: www.tetsujiya.com

interesting though I doubt few on SF would appreciate his toe styling

 

[meister]



interesting though I doubt few on SF would appreciate his toe styling

Except Bettanin lovers and aficionados of the big welt thread!

 

[Saratorial_Splender]

...

interesting though I doubt few on SF would appreciate his toe styling[/quote


I have few of these style byFratelli Rossetti circa 1998. I would not think many SFer would wear those these days.

 

[mimo]

Big welt - yes sometimes. Huge square chisel - hell no. Ugly is ugly, even when it's well-made ugly.

 

[bamboo]

I confess. I found brogue one above attractive. No not for office. Even for casual, I am afraid people ask me what I am wearing, that is the only problem.

 

[nutcracker]

I've seen Tetsujiya's other works (from his portfolio folder), and he is definitely capable of making shoes in other styles (like round toes )
However, he says for now (this year), he will continue to concentrate on this direction (big welt shoes), and perhaps introduce a collection of welted shoes in near future.

Big Square Toe + Big Welt shoes seem to have a steady following in Japan (Bettanin, Brancchini etc...), and from my impression, he's trying to fill in that demand from the Bespoke side.

 

[ezlau]

Does he sell his crane origami?

 

[chogall]

That's a very interesting last for monkey/hiking boots!!

I like his lasts. Casual and not #menswear. Actually not sure how Il Micio fares on this forum with its always distinctive last and pattern.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



ps: The leather soles on these MTO shoes are not bevel edged.

I'm really torn between the leather soles and the dainite soles. What's your take? Is it common for people over in Japan to opt for Dainite soles? I'm very hard on my shoes!

 

[nutcracker]



That's a very interesting last for monkey/hiking boots!!

Actually not sure how Il Micio fares on this forum with its always distinctive last and pattern.

Yeah, some of Il Micio's sample were impossibly sharp and sleek (well,they are sample shoes.....), but they indeed looked distinctive (and quite impressive).
His shoes definitely aren't well represented here on the forum. I also flipped through a hardcover catalog of Il Micio, was quite tempted to tuck it in my shirt......

 

[nutcracker]



I'm really torn between the leather soles and the dainite soles. What's your take? Is it common for people over in Japan to opt for Dainite soles? I'm very hard on my shoes!

Apparently rubber soles are quite popular in Japan, even for high priced shoes. Just a matter of practicality in a humid country.

I would prefer going with leather soles to match the smooth leather upper. The leather soles aren't too fancy, and in a sense looks quite practical. But then I rarely wear dress/oxford shoes to commute/work, so my situation/preference may be different from you.

 

[eddievddr10]

would love to order some insane patina shoes from Imai Hiroki, does he come to the us?

 

[nutcracker]



would love to order some insane patina shoes from Imai Hiroki, does he come to the us?

Unfortunately, no. I'm sure he gets plenty of inquiries, so I assume he knows there are plenty of potential customers overseas.....

 

[add911_11]



I'm really torn between the leather soles and the dainite soles. What's your take? Is it common for people over in Japan to opt for Dainite soles? I'm very hard on my shoes!

I will suggest to stick with HAF sole, I find Dainite last just as long as my leather sole. Hell, I like wearing my St Cripins in the rain.

 

[Fang66]

I'm really torn between the leather soles and the dainite soles. What's your take? Is it common for people over in Japan to opt for Dainite soles? I'm very hard on my shoes!

Apparently rubber soles are quite popular in Japan, even for high priced shoes. Just a matter of practicality in a humid country.

I would prefer going with leather soles to match the smooth leather upper. The leather soles aren't too fancy, and in a sense looks quite practical. But then I rarely wear dress/oxford shoes to commute/work, so my situation/preference may be different from you.

All the polished floors in Shinjuku station and other places play havoc with me when I wear leather soles.