Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[techaview]

Just came back from my Japan trip. This is the first time I've step into the land of the rising sun and boy am I blown away by the quality of standard that they carried there.

I have heard about the Japanese are a bunch of perfectionist and to see it with your own eyes is another entirely different perspective. This thread keeps me entertain with the insight on Japanese shoemakers throughout the trip...

This trip with my friends is basically nothing but a sartorial trip on clothing and SHOES in mind with only one sightseeing in Kyoto which is a day rest from sartorial for us...

Visited beams, ships and some shoemaker ateliers. More pics to follow soon...

 

[PCK1]

 

[rbhan12]



How was the heel fit? When he visisted us in Norway, he was given feedback that it curved a bit too sharp into the achilles, which may be something that differs from the average Japanese customer. We also needed another width for some customers, which I think is what he made for his visit at Leffot.


Excited to see when I visit Tokyo in November. And, of course, pick up my first pair. I'm sure you will too, @j ingevaldsson
! 

The normal width didn't work for me at all, especially in the heel. It really curved into my Achilles, but that was also because it was simply too narrow for me. He brought sample shoes on the Japanese last, but only brought trial fit shoes on the American last.

The wide last was quite honestly perfect. The creasing was exactly in the right spot for a cap toe shoe. Between the laces and the stitching for a cap toe, not a ton of space between my foot and the vamp so it hugged nicely.

It was a really good fit for me. I was really attracted to the Japanese last because of how shapely it is, but he emphasized that it would fit me terribly.

 

[ThunderMarch]

The normal width didn't work for me at all, especially in the heel. It really curved into my Achilles, but that was also because it was simply too narrow for me. He brought sample shoes on the Japanese last, but only brought trial fit shoes on the American last.

The wide last was quite honestly perfect. The creasing was exactly in the right spot for a cap toe shoe. Between the laces and the stitching for a cap toe, not a ton of space between my foot and the vamp so it hugged nicely.

It was a really good fit for me. I was really attracted to the Japanese last because of how shapely it is, but he emphasized that it would fit me terribly.

Have just returned from Japan, and paid visits to Hiro Yanagimachi, Yohei Fukuda, Clematis and Guild of Crafts.
Having met Hiro, I must say he has a very good understanding of Asian feet and last making (plus he's super patient, and a very nice guy).
The lasts he uses for his MTO range are specially adapted to Asian (in particular Japanese) lower limb anatomy; a lot of us do have some degree of bowing of the legs which leads to the lower calf / ankle transition area not being perfectly straight.
Hiro has modified his lasts to accommodate this peculiarity. This might be the reason you felt that the heel really cuts into your achilles (you might probably feel it more on the "inner" aspect of the achilles). He calls this feature a "twisted top right" (or at least that is my interpretation of what he called it). Lol.
And yes, the quality of the shoes in Japan are really something else.
I was especially impressed with Otsuka (handmade range), made for Isetan. Coming in at approximately 190000yen, they were damn near perfect.

 

[Stefan88]

The normal width didn't work for me at all, especially in the heel. It really curved into my Achilles, but that was also because it was simply too narrow for me. He brought sample shoes on the Japanese last, but only brought trial fit shoes on the American last.

The wide last was quite honestly perfect. The creasing was exactly in the right spot for a cap toe shoe. Between the laces and the stitching for a cap toe, not a ton of space between my foot and the vamp so it hugged nicely.

It was a really good fit for me. I was really attracted to the Japanese last because of how shapely it is, but he emphasized that it would fit me terribly.

The "normal width" was a last he made for the Scandinavian market, on his first visit abroad this summer. We experienced that this last cut into the achilles on most customers, and I'm glad to hear this has been addressed and improved with the new, wider last.

 

[Concordia]

Interesting observation about the Achilles-- that is one of the slight oddities in the C&J Harvard loafers I got from Ben Silver. (I can't remember this being an issue when I tried the same model on in London.) Compared to Aldens, there is a lot of curve in the heel counter and they do like to reach into my Achilles tendon more than any other shoes I have. They are actually quite comfortable to wear, especially while walking, but this does make them harder to put on without a proper shoehorn.

 

[bengal-stripe]



Interesting observation about the Achilles-- that is one of the slight oddities in the C&J Harvard loafers........Compared to Aldens, there is a lot of curve in the heel counter and they do like to reach into my Achilles tendon more than any other shoes I have.

But the tight-fitting heel and top-line is the difference between a loafer last and a last for lace-up shoes. Heel-slippage and a gaping top-line are the signs of a badly fitting loafer. To make sure the loafer clips into the back of the foot like a bicycle trouser clip (and stays put throughout the day) you make the profil of the heel more curved-in (in the top section) and you also tighten the top-line so the opening is more triangular (less round) towards the heel end. You should have difficulties, getting into a loafer (particular a new one) without the aid of a shoe horn, but once you're in, the heel of the shoe should not squeeze the heel of your foot.

Some shoemaking firms, for example Alden and St Crispin's, do not use dedicated loafer lasts, but make loafers and lace- ups on the same last. In my opinion this is likely to compromise the best-possible fit.

 

[Son Of Saphir]



Marquess: The round toe last = love

s

Very very clean.
It perfect.
Me like it.

 

[VRaivio]

"Slaughtermen, undertakers, those working with leather and in other 'unclean' professions such as sanitation have long been marginalised in Japan. That prejudice continues to this day and especially for those working in the Shibaura abattoir."

This new article is on the topic of the burakumin, and I'm wondering if shoemakers are included as well.

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-34615972

 

[nutcracker]

I just updated my mode of taking pictures to a NIKON DSLR. Quite an upgrade from my iPhone, especially in large closeups!

Some new Bespoke sample creations by IL QUADRIFOGLIO (Atsushi Qnai) delivered to Taipei.
Both with rubber soles, which could be done quite tastefully, or outlandishly, and still keeping the signature beveled waist of a bespoke shoe.

Side Laced Oxfords with subtle brown Patina
Half Rubber (Topied) sole with leather beveled waist

The `Qnai-Sole` pattern works just as well with rubber soles!

3-Eyelet Apron Derby with brown grained leather. Commando Sole with Beveled Waist
Keen viewers could tell that this is the same leather used by Spigola (they are neighbours)

Quite a pain to shape that waist (to properly glue it over the curve)

As tight as a Commando Sole waist can get!

 

[nutcracker]

Took some pictures of the 2 MASARU OKUYAMA bespoke shoes that have been loaned to us by the shoemaker.
The signature swoop down the instep/vamp to the sharp toe defines the Okuyama silhouette


MASARU OKUYAMA
2 Eyelet Derby in Brown Llama Skin

MASARU OKUYAMA
Single-Monk in Brown Calf

 

[nutcracker]

Some pics of MARQUESS Shoes

MARQUESS by Shoji Kawaguchi
3-Eyelet Derby
Black Calf

More of less inspired by an old faded FOSTER & SON bespoke sample that I had seen and handled. Of course, the MARQUESS version came out to be something very different. My feet shape are quite problematic, namely having a very flat feet. Shoji-san`s lasts accommodated my foot shape very well, while still keeping the elegant lines of the shoes in tact (much better looking than a similar Foster bespoke pair that I am also making). Very happy with the result.

and here is my first pair, which I don`t think I posted before

MARQUESS by Shoji Kawaguchi
Semi-brogue Oxfords
Carl Freudenburg Chocolate calf

I have told this to countless of people, but this pair (wearing regularly for 2 yrs) BARELY show creases. I think the super fine grain of the vintage Freudenburg calf probably contribute to this.

 

[Stefan88]



Some pics of MARQUESS Shoes

MARQUESS by Shoji Kawaguchi
3-Eyelet Derby
Black Calf

More of less inspired by an old faded FOSTER & SON bespoke sample that I had seen and handled. Of course, the MARQUESS version came out to be something very different. My feet shape are quite problematic, namely having a very flat feet. Shoji-san`s lasts accommodated my foot shape very well, while still keeping the elegant lines of the shoes in tact (much better looking than a similar Foster bespoke pair that I am also making). Very happy with the result.

and here is my first pair, which I don`t think I posted before

MARQUESS by Shoji Kawaguchi
Semi-brogue Oxfords
Carl Freudenburg Chocolate calf

I have told this to countless of people, but this pair (wearing regularly for 2 yrs) BARELY show creases. I think the super fine grain of the vintage Freudenburg calf probably contribute to this.

Nice one Robin!
I haven't used my first pair that much yet, but I also seem to have no creases on it, using the almond Freudenberg. My next one is the chocolate Freudenberg, and I will pick it up in 3 weeks. Considering a third black pair now, probably similar to your first.

 

[Concordia]



Some pics of MARQUESS Shoes

MARQUESS by Shoji Kawaguchi
3-Eyelet Derby
Black Calf

More of less inspired by an old faded FOSTER & SON bespoke sample that I had seen and handled. Of course, the MARQUESS version came out to be something very different. My feet shape are quite problematic, namely having a very flat feet. Shoji-san`s lasts accommodated my foot shape very well, while still keeping the elegant lines of the shoes in tact (much better looking than a similar Foster bespoke pair that I am also making). Very happy with the result.

and here is my first pair, which I don`t think I posted before

MARQUESS by Shoji Kawaguchi
Semi-brogue Oxfords
Carl Freudenburg Chocolate calf

I have told this to countless of people, but this pair (wearing regularly for 2 yrs) BARELY show creases. I think the super fine grain of the vintage Freudenburg calf probably contribute to this.

Like what English shoes aim for, but rarely get to. The brown oxfords are somewhere between Cleverley and Foster in their style. The black ones are the first three-eyelet full brogues I'd ever considered liking.

 

[chogall]

Close to no toe spring for Okuyama's shoes.