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Thanks for the suggestions. We plan to hire a car in Emilio Romagna but haven't decided when exactly, probably after Modena.
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I just returned from Italy and had an unfortunate encounter with their health system.
My mom had a stroke while we were in Florence. The nature of the stroke was such that if it happened in the US we would have reopened and stented her carotid. They did nothing other than put her in a bed, provide minimal nursing care, allow her to become dehydrated and the stroke to worsen, so that by the time we got her back to a first world health system the stroke was nonsurvivable.
It should be embarrassing to any society with a majority of its roads paved that they couldn't do a better job than that.