In search of a plain toe balmoral for evening wear

[jmonroestyle]

Black, plain toe, calf skin, balmoral shoes seem to be rather obscure, especially in the offerings of mid priced British vendors.

If because of fitting issues, one is limited to lace-up shoes for evening wear, that are cut with a fuller, traditional, round or square toe (not sleek and elongated), I am at a loss to come up with even one option for a plain toe bal.

Alden makes the 932 on the Aberdeen last, and the 935 on the Plaza last. However, those lasts are cut rather narrow around the ball of the foot. (The Plaza last with a blucher pattern is a more generous fit around the ball of the foot than a bal on the same last, and I can wear bluchers made on the Plaza last, but not bals).

I have checked Barkers, Cheaney, Trickers, Crockett and Jones, and J.M. Weston (which is a little beyond mid priced). They all have really nice cap toe bals that fit well (which I own and enjoy wearing) but no plain toe options with fuller, traditional, round or square toes.

The closest to an evening shoe I have been able to find that fits, is the Alden 2817 blucher on the Plaza last, so that is what I currently wear. The leather has a super high polish finish, and other than the shoe being a blucher, it is extremely dressy.

I suppose I could seek out a whole cut. However, personally I have never really liked them, as they seem a little too plain and simple for my tastes.

Can anyone think of a plain toe bal from a mid priced British vendor (I am not considering Alfred Sargent or Italian vendors at this point due to fitting issues).

Thanks for any assistance.

Jess

 

[emptym]

I was considering the Alfred Sargent model. How would you describe its fit? Is the finish good?
Sorry I can't be of help to you.

 

[jmonroestyle]

I ordered a pair of Alfred Sargent cap toe bals from their Premier range of shoes. I thought the finish and craftsmanship were fine. However, at a similar price point, I would go with Trickers or Cheaney. My Trickers cap toe bals are exceptional quality, that I think would rival shoes from much more expensive vendors.

I haven't seen a higher end Cheaney bal yet. However, I recently purchased their shoe called "Deal" which is a Dainite soled country type shoe. I am also very impressed with the quality of this shoe, especially for its moderate price. I may try ordering a Cheaney cap toe bal.

The Alfred Sargent bal I ordered was a UK size 11 F. It was made on their 87 last. I found it very wide fitting in the ball through toe area. The area around the ankle bones didn't fit me right and rubbed up against my ankle bones, even with heel cushions inserted into the shoes. Also, the shoe had a little too high an arch for my flat feet, and it felt like standing on the handle of a broom barefoot. I didn,t have these problems with my Tricker's, C & J, Alden, or Cheaney shoes, so I sent the shoes back.

Alfred Sargent makes some cap toe bals on their 104 last in a UK EE width, which I am guessing is more like a US D width.

I tried some of the Alfred Sargent shoes made for Brooks Brothers in a D width, and found them too narrow in the mid section. However, US E width shoes are too wide for me in other areas, such as the ball and heel.

I am thinking the main reason it is hard to find a plain toe bal with a traditional round or square, fuller shaped toe, is that narrow elongated toes are what is "in" these days, and thus that is what many shoe vendors are producing. While I like to wear them on some of my cowboy boots, I like my shoes to be more traditionally shaped.

Also, with a flat over pronated foot, narrow elongated toes are really tough to fit properly, unless they are custom made, like my cowboy boots.

 

[JayJay]

John Lobb's Beckett comes to my mind but it isn't a mid-priced British maker. Nonetheless, it's a very nice looking shoe that would look great for your intended use. I have it and love it.

 

[moonman]

I have the Beckett and it is perfect for this particular application. But it is expensive and it does have a bit of a pointed toe.

 

[emptym]

Thanks for the very thorough and helpful response, jmonroestyle.
I have one more question. Would you happen to know which number on an Alfred Sargent shoe indicates the last?
Thanks
m

 

[jmonroestyle]

Originally Posted by emptym

Thanks for the very thorough and helpful response, jmonroestyle.
I have one more question. Would you happen to know which number on an Alfred Sargent shoe indicates the last?
Thanks
m

It is a usually a 2 or 3 digit number, such as 87, 99, 104. It is written inside the shoes in the heel area.