Important and Titillating Sartorial Observations

[patrickBOOTH]

I wear mitered cuffs despite the greater God's of the forum disliking them. My guess is they stand out/are fashion-y.

 

[Medwed]

Michelin stars are bullshit

 

[dieworkwear]

*walks into a nice restaurant*

"Sir, you can't wear that big ass watch in here"

Me:

Michelin stars are bullshit

 

[acridsheep]

Over the past several years I've found nominal need for clothing of any kind due to my tenure on a remote isle replete with scores of aesthetically pleasing nudists. However unforeseen circumstances have thrust me back into a world where nudity (even my own, for reasons that remain opaque) is somehow gauche, so I returned to Styleforum to see if the sartorial world could offer me something noteworthy. After reading all 31 pages of this thread, I am skeptical.

 

[Jamesgatz]

Hey Acridsheep, please post that diagram of yours, haven't seen it in a long time.

 

[Jamesgatz]

Hey Acridsheep, please post that diagram of yours, haven't seen it in a long time.

Oh, it's in your signature. Good to see old regulars still hanging around.

 

[Thomson]

I feel like spalla camicia fell victim to the kind of broad sweeping generalizations of everything that gets casted as either all bad or all good. Whereas it was once something that was nice and special in very specific contexts, it got hyped as a standalone detail. So people put it on summer sport coats, tweed, business suits, triple patch pocket double breasted bright blue jackets, safari jackets, and literally everything else. So now even when it's done well, and in the right context, everyone is tired of it.

So what would you say is the right context for spalla camicia? I bought a Caruso suit with a shirt sleeve shoulder - the lightweight construction feels great but it is a fairly conservative cloth. With hindsight not completely sure how I feel about that....

 

[patrickBOOTH]

It would be totally appropriate in Southern Italy. If you're not wearing that in Southern Italy you're poorly dressed. Shame on you.

 

[dieworkwear]

So what would you say is the right context for spalla camicia? I bought a Caruso suit with a shirt sleeve shoulder - the lightweight construction feels great but it is a fairly conservative cloth. With hindsight not completely sure how I feel about that....

I don't to be a stick in the mud about it cause sometimes a strange detail can also lend personality. I don't mean to make things about "right" and "wrong," cause I also think that has its own problems.

But to me, spalla camicia is a very casual detail and does best on casual suits and sport coats, particularly things meant to be worn in warm weather. Like a linen jacket. I also think the detail looks better when it's subtle.

That said, it's like every dumb detail that gets taken out of context and becomes fetishized -- surgeon cuffs, beveled waists, top stitching, etc. -- it's hard to appreciate it now even when it's good because it's become so kitschy.

 

[DonkeyJacket1]

Michelin stars are bullshit

Food ratings for posh cunts

 

[Medwed]

Spalla camicia belongs on shirts.

 

[DonkeyJacket1]

Meanwhile in Yorkshire

 

[TheFoo]

What the **** have you all done to my thread???

The dumbest thing about "spalla camicia" is people who don't realize that it can mean different things. In its subtlest iteration, a shirt-set jacket sleeve is hardly noticeable versus the standard variety and is not a problem in conservative business settings. It just means the top of the sleeve head is gently rounded-off and rolls off in a near seamless fashion from the shoulder line. An English roped shoulder is more ostentatious and attention-getting.

You all are thinking of the sort where there is pronounced pleating and a blooming, waterfall effect. That sort of sleeve has its place, but I agree it is rather "village".

 

[TheFoo]

Why are you opposed?

I wear mitered cuffs despite the greater God's of the forum disliking them. My guess is they stand out/are fashion-y.

I have come to very much dislike them. A rounded barrel cuff is far more elegant, more resistant to wear, and arguably more difficult to make. My theory is that the mitered cuff has only found such popularity across iGent-dom because it is typical of Italian conservative business dress and everyone seems to think Italian conservative business dress is some sort of platonic ideal.

 

[TheFoo]

**** Italian conservative business dress.