I am going to take the plunge into straight razors

[Opcn]

I have been unsatisfied with cartridge razors for years, so I have made the decision to switch the straight razors. it seems like the first shave I get with a new Mach III cartridge always sucks (lots of cuts and razor burn) and then after about three good shaves I get back to cutting the hell out of my face, and I'm tired of cutting the skin at the corners of y mustache by going over them too many times trying to get a close shave virtually every time I shave.
I'm getting most of the things I will need off of ClassicShaving.com

I'm going to start with a DOVO classic "Special" 6/8 in black
An Illinois #127 hanging Razor strop
(With DOVO strop paste)
and Pumice stone for dressing
A shaving bowl
and then for a brush and to try out what they have got I'm getting the Art of Shaving 4 elements kit which comes with a Pure Badger brush.

I cant realistically get my sharpening stones from home (I left them there when I left for college) because they are probably buried, so I might get the Sharpening Set off of Classic shaving when it comes time to resharpen in a few months.

Is there anything that I have forgotten?

Any sage words of advice?

Should I spend the extra 5-6 USD to get the "Russian" Strop

Thanks

 

[mack11211]

Don't do it!

Life will get better.

 

[Abudeeba]

Originally Posted by Opcn

I have been unsatisfied with cartridge razors for years, so I have made the decision to switch the straight razors. it seems like the first shave I get with a new Mach III cartridge always sucks (lots of cuts and razor burn) and then after about three good shaves I get back to cutting the hell out of my face, and I'm tired of cutting the skin at the corners of y mustache by going over them too many times trying to get a close shave virtually every time I shave.
I'm getting most of the things I will need off of ClassicShaving.com

I'm going to start with a DOVO classic "Special" 6/8 in black
An Illinois #127 hanging Razor strop
(With DOVO strop paste)
and Pumice stone for dressing
A shaving bowl
and then for a brush and to try out what they have got I'm getting the Art of Shaving 4 elements kit which comes with a Pure Badger brush.

I cant realistically get my sharpening stones from home (I left them there when I left for college) because they are probably buried, so I might get the Sharpening Set off of Classic shaving when it comes time to resharpen in a few months.

Is there anything that I have forgotten?

Any sage words of advice?

Should I spend the extra 5-6 USD to get the "Russian" Strop

Thanks

Unless you've used a straight razor before, be sure to check out a few helpful instructional clips on Youtube. I would also highly recommend you peruse or join www.badgerandblade.com. You'll find an incredibly helpful and knowledgeable community of guys (and some women) who are into double edge and straight edge shaving.

 

[Gradstudent78]

I'd suggest Lynn Abrams DVD if you don't already have it

http://www.classicshaving.citymax.co...01/3712238.htm


Alternatively you could try a double edge safety razor.

You might want to check out one of these kits:
http://shop.thewellshavedgentleman.c...c?categoryId=5

Also if I was going to buy a new strop I, I'd probably get it from there anyways.

 

[Opcn]

Originally Posted by mack11211

Don't do it! Life will get better.
I would still use a safety razor on my neck, at least thats what I would do at first, I've always had a huge phobia about things cutting/puncturing my throat. DVD added to my cart. OH, and I forgot an Alum block for the bleeders (I have both thin and sensitive skin, I knick very easily and it is not uncommon for me to end up with 10-15 tiny whiteheads on my upper lip and chin about two days after a close shave) Edit: reading B&B it would seem that Alum is a bad idea for me as it can clog pores, shame.

 

[Gradstudent78]

Originally Posted by Opcn

I would still use a safety razor on my neck, at least thats what I would do at first, I've always had a huge phobia about things cutting/puncturing my throat.

The worse cuts I've had by far have been with catridge razors, with only relatively minor cuts using a straight razor.

 

[MCsommerreid]

Originally Posted by Gradstudent78

The worse cuts I've had by far have been with catridge razors, with only relatively minor cuts using a straight razor.

And they're super thin unless you made a major mistake in blade position. In order to get major slices and punctures the blade needs to be perpendicular to the cutting surface, and shaving the razor is nearly parallel.

You do have to watch out for any horizontal movement, though. That can create amazingly nasty, though minor, cuts.

 

[BerniniCaCO3]

Let me know how it goes?
I've got an old, ivory-handled straight razor from my grandfather. I've been meaning to try it out for a while; thanks everyone else for the links/ video recommendations.

I've been into woodworking for years, so I know how to get a good edge. Hech, I can sharpen a knife so that it can dry-shave my arm hair-- that's when you know it's sharp. But... shaving facial hair probably requires an even better edge; shorter, closer hairs.

I can't see that from strop to strop there's much of a difference.

Your main challenge will be not rounding over the blade edge, when on the whetstone.
You see, it is ground concave on a wheel, and then you flatten a portion into a flat edge on the whetstone. But if your hands are unsteady, you get a duller, rounded, bullet-pointed edge.

You may wish to invest in a cheap $20 grinder from HF or grizzly, and/or a 1x42" belt sander with some very fine (400 grit) metal-grinding belts and a leather stropping belt from klingspor. They put on a clean edge as fast as anything. The trick is that a belt sander has a flat surface, and since it's doing all the removal, you can pass your blade across it so fast that you don't have time to twitch and round over the edge.
Otherwise, if using a traditional whetstone, you may find yourself struggling and then resorting to expensive and gimmicky jigs to hold it at a constant angle.

Diamond stones are really only for carbide tools if you might have seen them; save your money. I do have carbide stone tools, though, and nothing else will do!



-Bernard

 

[Rambo]

Originally Posted by Gradstudent78

You might want to check out one of these kits: http://shop.thewellshavedgentleman.c...c?categoryId=5
I'll second this recommendation. Tony is a standup guy and the packages are a great value.

 

[Gradstudent78]

Originally Posted by BerniniCaCO3

Let me know how it goes?
I've got an old, ivory-handled straight razor from my grandfather. I've been meaning to try it out for a while; thanks everyone else for the links/ video recommendations.

I've been into woodworking for years, so I know how to get a good edge. Hech, I can sharpen a knife so that it can dry-shave my arm hair-- that's when you know it's sharp. But... shaving facial hair probably requires an even better edge; shorter, closer hairs.

I can't see that from strop to strop there's much of a difference.

Your main challenge will be not rounding over the blade edge, when on the whetstone.
You see, it is ground concave on a wheel, and then you flatten a portion into a flat edge on the whetstone. But if your hands are unsteady, you get a duller, rounded, bullet-pointed edge.

You may wish to invest in a cheap $20 grinder from HF or grizzly, and/or a 1x42" belt sander with some very fine (400 grit) metal-grinding belts and a leather stropping belt from klingspor. They put on a clean edge as fast as anything. The trick is that a belt sander has a flat surface, and since it's doing all the removal, you can pass your blade across it so fast that you don't have time to twitch and round over the edge.
Otherwise, if using a traditional whetstone, you may find yourself struggling and then resorting to expensive and gimmicky jigs to hold it at a constant angle.

Diamond stones are really only for carbide tools if you might have seen them; save your money. I do have carbide stone tools, though, and nothing else will do!

A belt sander is probably going to be too aggressive for a straight razor. I don't think the angle is too tricky for most sharpening as your typically just laying the razor flat against the stone.

 

[Tokyo Slim]

Plunging into straight razors sounds like a bad idea. Try thumbtacks first to see if your pain threshold is as high as you think it is.

 

[Sartorian]

Originally Posted by Gradstudent78

The worse cuts I've had by far have been with catridge razors, with only relatively minor cuts using a straight razor.

+1. Cartridge will take out divots, a straight blade usually only gives you a faint cut, which you often don't feel and closes with the simple application of cold water.

In addition to the resources stated, there's Lynn Abrams' own online forum: straightrazorplace. There's a yahoo group, and they've migrated to a separate forum, but I don't know how successful the migration was. Register and read through their archives.

I'd say the single most important thing to learn is proper stropping technique. Learn to do it slowly and methodically. Also, learning to shave each side with either hand will really help you get close.

Originally Posted by Tokyo Slim

Plunging into straight razors sounds like a bad idea. Try thumbtacks first to see if your pain threshold is as high as you think it is.

 

[LabelKing]

There is no reason not to try straight razors.

However, if you went straight from those packaged things to a straight, there might be some blood involved. Now, if you came from using a safety, then you might have some experience.

 

[Thomas]

When I made the switch, I cut myself every single day for 30 straight days. After that it was smooth shaving, although it was another month before I got to switching hands, and after that the chin started looking presentable.

The worst cuts I've had from a straight have been on my hands, when I'm not paying attention. On the face, most cuts don't hurt much, they heal up in a few moments and disappear in a day or so. Cold water / direct pressure usually does the trick.

The technique does not come automatically. You've got to stretch the skin in order to get a close shave, so there are all sorts of contortions involved. You'll be experimenting quite a bit, checking videos and looking for advice. The websites listed previously are excellent references.

Your razor will not be shave-ready when it arrives, unless you've specifically asked (and paid) for that service. Sharpening/honing/stropping is a delicate matter, best done by hand IMHO. I use a 6000-grit japanese waterstone for setting the bevel, then move to abrasive pastes for polishing. You shouldn't have to remove much metal unless you're grinding a whole new edge, and even then - because they're so thin - it seldom takes more than a few strokes on an aggressive stone (1000 grit). As for maintaining the edge, the strop is all you'll need for a while. A second strop (scrap leather works too) with abrasive paste will freshen your edge as needed.

 

[Opcn]

The well shaved gentlemen kits seem to me like a good way to spend a lot on a razor, some cheep stuff, and what could very well be a good strop. The brush looks very cheap and I'm buying a strop and Razor for less than that.

Should I get a DE and start with that or is that just creating two learning curves instead of one?

BerniniCACO3-As for diamond stones I only have a very small one (3"X1") that I use for camping these days, although I think you underestimate their usefulness; they never get clogged, all you need is a splash of water when you are using them, you don't have to clean up dust from the stone, and they are the best way to dress an existing stone. As for a grinder with the exception of a wet stone (which I have ground myself on pretty well not feeling the heat) it is very hard to grind with out heating the blade up, which saps the temper and makes it so you have to sharpen more often.