Academic2
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The simple solution to the "slightly tight jacket, with a somewhat high buttoning point" would be to wear the jacket unbuttoned when worn as part of a three-piece. I almost always wear my three-pieces with the jacket unbuttoned. Otherwise people wouldn't get to view the waistcoat in all it's glory
Yes. And this is what I almost always do. I buttoned it here since it was my first time posting a photo, and I didn't want it to look like I was trying to hide anything.
My own rule of thumb regarding the relation between the jacket and vest is that at least one and no more than two buttons of the latter should show when the former is buttoned. The Platonic ideal for me: just one button of the vest will show, and on a two-button jacket that button is precisely as far above the top button of the jacket as the top button of the jacket is above the bottom button of the jacket. If two show, the equal-spacing principle would still apply.
The three-piece can look great on men of all body types: big, small, fat, skinny. But that doesn't mean getting the proportions right is easy.
Regarding seeing the vest when the jacket is buttoned, as you know there are a lot of suits these days where you can't see even the top button of the vest if the jacket is buttoned. And I'm not talking about department store brands. Suit Supply, Charles Tyrwhitt, et al.
Honestly, I don't know what those people are thinking.
Cheers,
Ac
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