gennaro paone: former head tailor of rubinacci

[Claghorn]

I was having a conversation with someone trying to determine where industrial organizational psychology ends and organizational behavior begins. We ultimately decided that it was a stupid conversation as the distinction didn't matter. I feel the same about "true" Neapolitan tailoring.

a) any line drawn will be fairly arbitrary within reason
b) any line drawn won't possess any significance

I can see someone disputing (b) by arguing that the label "Neapolitan" has some worth from a marketing standpoint. Maybe that's true.

 

[dieworkwear]



I can see someone disputing (b) by arguing that the label "Neapolitan" has some worth from a marketing standpoint. Maybe that's true.

Yes, and frankly, it's usually a marketing point between Neapolitan tailors, not between Neapolitan tailors as a community and those in England or France. It's just sniping between tailors who live and work near each other, and often their clients, who like to bicker on the internet about how their Neapolitan commission differs from someone else's Neapolitan commission.

 

[Claghorn]

Do you think it'll actually affect anyone's bottom line?

For example, how many clients did NSM get due to their claim (accurate or otherwise) of providing Neapolitan tailoring vs getting clients that simply happened to like their work at those prices?

 

[Victor Elfo]

I happen to know the unlucky wearer of that db
this is the best shape one can achieve
imagine humpty-dumpty in a shorter and broader way
standing on two toothpicks
the tailor did a very very very good job, believe me

In that case, he really did a good job, because I really do not see those "issues". Based on what I can see, I would dial back on the lapel width (it dominates the chest, undermining it as a result) and ask for a cupped skirt, so as to undermine the hips. Dunno... What do you think of those suggestions?

My basic concern so far is that Paone seems to cut a narrow shoulder. Not sure if that's accurate or what, but one of the things I like about Rubinacci is the way they do a little extension so that the shoulders almost always look just a hair wider than the hips.

The sleeves seems to fall almost straight down on the DB coat, so I think that there's a shoulder extension there, at least.

Gennaro jacket sure looks good in these pics.

Of all the coats posted here and on his blog, the stuff he wears seems to be the best of the bunch in terms of cut, IMO.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Do you think it'll actually affect anyone's bottom line?

For example, how many clients did NSM get due to their claim (accurate or otherwise) of providing Neapolitan tailoring vs getting clients that simply happened to like their work at those prices?

Wow, this fact is very interesting. I never thought about.

Do you mean that if instead of Neapolitan where from a random other part but at same price, would have have the same amount of bookings?

(note i am a fan of NSM jackets myself, not bashing)

 

[kolecho]

I've worked with Gennaro on commissions of my own and seen him work with others. The shoulder width on my jackets are extended, chest is draped and there is no shoulder padding. The chest drape may not be apparent on the first couple of outings, but it's there. I've asked for these features along with jacket length, lapel width at the get-go as I thought it's better to have more allowance to dial down as necessary.

On the other hand, I've seen clients ask for little to no drape, narrower shoulders, shorter length, more or less fitted torso/sleeves etc. Gennaro is perfectly happy to accommodate their initial requests and discuss further with the clients during fittings. He's no tailor-Nazi. The only thing Gennaro is insistent on is to have Italian food when he's travelling

I will post more pics of fitting and finished pieces from the Hong Kong trunk show next weekend so people can have a better idea of what's consistent in his work, and where there is variance depending on client preferences.

 

[Murlsquirl]

Can't wait to see.

Derek, if you can get him to come to SF, I'm 95% in....just PM me price range and a rough timeline.

 

[Manton]

Good to hear. Regardless of national style--London, Naples, New York--I always want a little extension.

 

[dieworkwear]



Good to hear. Regardless of national style--London, Naples, New York--I always want a little extension.

Were you able to get this through NSM? I asked for it on my orders, but wasn't successful.

 

[Manton]

No.

[exaggerated for effect]

On the rare (as in, natural Pu 239) occasions when I go out in the city, here is the differing reaction I get.

My preferred style--meet random woman, she says "Aww, you're so sweet, you remind me of my great grandpa who died at age 95 when I was 11!"

Wearing NSM suit: "I'm in town on business for 18 hours, how about you come back to my hotel room and **** me until my skull cracks against the headboard?"

{/exaggerated for effect]

Yeah, I still prefer the old man cut.

 

[Tried and True]



I will post more pics of fitting and finished pieces from the Hong Kong trunk show next weekend so people can have a better idea of what's consistent in his work, and where there is variance depending on client preferences.

Could you include photos of the back, as well.

 

[dieworkwear]



No.

[exaggerated for effect]

On the rare (as in, natural Pu 239) occasions when I go out in the city, here is the differing reaction I get.

My preferred style--meet random woman, she says "Aww, you're so sweet, you remind me of my great grandpa who died at age 95 when I was 11!"

Wearing NSM suit: "I'm in town on business for 18 hours, how about you come back to my hotel room and **** me until my skull cracks against the headboard?"

{/exaggerated for effect]

Yeah, I still prefer the old man cut.

Have you tried first telling these women about the history of the drape cut, the Duke of Windsor, Frederick Scholte, and Anderson & Sheppard? And maybe showed them some print outs of A Suitable Wardrobe?

 

[Manton]



Have you tried first telling these women about the history of the drape cut, the Duke of Windsor, Frederick Scholte, and Anderson & Sheppard? And maybe showed them some print outs of A Suitable Wardrobe?

You know, it doesn't work.

 

[dieworkwear]



You know, it doesn't work.

This would have been funnier without the comma.

 

[Bounder]



No.

[exaggerated for effect]

On the rare (as in, natural Pu 239) occasions when I go out in the city, here is the differing reaction I get.

My preferred style--meet random woman, she says "Aww, you're so sweet, you remind me of my great grandpa who died at age 95 when I was 11!"

Wearing NSM suit: "I'm in town on business for 18 hours, how about you come back to my hotel room and **** me until my skull cracks against the headboard?"

{/exaggerated for effect]

Yeah, I still prefer the old man cut.

Hmm. And how does the Steed play out?