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Gen Z "Zoomers" and Classic Menswear

JohnMRobie

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I wonder how much of this is just more handwringing about the death of menswear. Is there evidence that Gen Z is some sort of outlier?

Let’s look at what we are talking about here. The oldest members of Gen Z are just now graduating from college, the youngest are what, something like 12 years old?

In that case, if we take Gen Z out of it - Is this some sort of new phenomena where 12-23 year olds or so aren’t interested in classic menswear or tailoring?

I’m not much of a fashion historian, maybe someone like @dieworkwear would know - But when is the last time it was more common than not for teenagers to regularly (and I suppose maybe framed a different way, voluntarily) wear classic menswear other than to some very specific events?

As an elder millennial, tailoring was around in the 12-18 range in very specific circumstances. If 1) it was part of a school uniform (what’s up navy blazer and tie with khakis) 2) was for cotillion/Young Gentlemen of Distinction/Deb Balls 3) Events (school dances, Bar Mitzvahs, weddings etc) 4) Holiday dinners at the club.

Its been a while but I seem to remember in that timeframe outside of school uniforms, we mostly ran around wearing Abercrombie graphic t’s with destroyed jeans, polos from Lacoste, etc. The girls wore Abercrombie or their Juicy tracksuits.

In college in the 18-22 range where the oldest zoomers are it was for some events, interviews, internships, occasionally professors in the school of business would ask us to wear a suit or jacket for presentations. Daily dress got a little better.

Sure - Tailoring, particularly with regard to suits and ties, is less common than it was in the workplace as things get more casual. I think there’s a few threads on it. But the idea that Gen Z is driving anything at this point seems to have little to no evidence when compared to recent past generations but maybe someone has some evidence to the contrary.

Anecdotally, I’ve got friends with Gen-Z kids. They still seem to wear suits to recitals, homecoming etc, crappy rented tuxes to prom, suits to weddings. I’m just not sure it’s that different when you look back at that age range.
 

Stylewords

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I think what happens with Derek is that he holds many strong opinions and has shared them so frequently, that his real answer is fragmented throughout them.

He's really looking at the gestalt of dress.

On the more fundamental level, understanding:
  • Proportion
  • Material choice
  • color
  • fit according to "le rules"
To move into the not-well-articulated space of "beautifully dressed", you then need to understand how, when, and why to apply:
  • Authenticity of self
  • Context of any given piece and any purposeful juxtaposition
  • Appropriate amount of restraint (or lack thereof)
  • fit according to one's body (what is 'correct' and what looks good on a particular person is not always the same)
  • Wearing one's clothes as opposed to being a collector of material goods
The challenge rests with there being no real guide on how to do the second set. Time, effort, and desire are the barriers. One of his biggest complaints with CM and fashion in general is that people want to skip learning and simply say "gimmie the list of good stuff and show me pictures of inspo." Which leads to people becoming more like hoarders/collectors of material goods rather than taking time to learn themselves in relation to their clothes.

The larger man he shared is working with a really difficult to dress figure. People who aren't overweight have no idea how challenging it can be to dress well while big. He understands himself and his clothes, and it shows.

Foo and Greg are great examples of people who "get" the right amount of restraint in adding complexity/interest to their fit without making a mess.

But, to hop back on topic for a minute - I think the best way to get Gen Z and future generations into CM is to allow it to die and be reborn and subsequently absorbed into the greater world of dress. As long as it's seen as stuffy, boring, workplace attire it will continue to decline. For it to live, it needs to be set free and for people to discover it as a joyful part of dressing.
I understand that the people posted dress well, but none of the photos really stand out as "beautifully dressed". I suppose part of the problem is that I find it easier to look at the photos of figures from the past who happen to look very well-dressed while doing something else and in a context where the clothes they are wearing are appropriate to time and place. Posters who have studied some pictures from the past and put together the ingredients for an outfit for today's instagram shot to obtain likes from random strangers just don't carry the same weight.
 

breakaway01

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I don’t think the fits I’ve seen have been ‘terrible’. All of us have better and worse fits, and nobody’s perfect. I think we (I?) should start a fit critique thread. Agree with DWW that we have to post our own outfits. Need to figure out some ground rules. Like no mention allowed of brand names/makers. What else?

Just started said thread. Let's see if it gets any traction.

 

Proleet

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One thing to note about generations is that it’s mostly a meaningless construct. All it means is that their perspectives are shaped by a similar cultural zeitgeist. It does not mean they’re all the same and behave or buy very similarly. So to speak about a generation in regards to buying behaviors is generally wrong; all that might be the case is that they buy a little bit less of something than the previous generation. It never means really abrupt changes in behavior.
 

celery

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I understand that the people posted dress well, but none of the photos really stand out as "beautifully dressed". I suppose part of the problem is that I find it easier to look at the photos of figures from the past who happen to look very well-dressed while doing something else and in a context where the clothes they are wearing are appropriate to time and place. Posters who have studied some pictures from the past and put together the ingredients for an outfit for today's instagram shot to obtain likes from random strangers just don't carry the same weight.

I don't know how much merit there is in trying to dissect what "beautifully dressed" means. I can't speak for Mr. DWW, if I had to speculate on how he's using the word "beautiful" it's probably more akin to a confluence of things coming together to create a particular sense of visual harmony than it is beautiful like a flower. I don't know and I'm not sure it matters.

I think what is of value is thinking about those more interesting facets of dress that aren't as easily prescribed and less about the tedium of having every shade of leather boot at your disposal so that you may always match perfectly.
 

stuffedsuperdud

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I'm wondering if what we need right now, to get 'classic' menswear out of it's current rut, as well as achieve my hopes of tailored clothing becoming more popular among the 18, even 16 to 25-year-old age bracket, is a bit of recklessness and carelessness in the matter of bringing people into the scene.

Young men are already more than welcome to wear tailored garments badly if they want. No one is stopping them but themselves. In fact there was actually a kinda scammy company called Combat Gent several years ago that specifically sold bottom of the barrel suits to young men with $160 to spare. They actually still exist, under new ownership (the original guy was a con artist MBA type who eventually imploded robbing Peter to pay Paul) and might be a more versatile option for you than these costumes you're spending your very limited funds on.

The problem is a messaging effort; without white collar dress codes or some cultural jumpstart like what Mad Men achieved 10+ years ago, I don't see anything that will get the required volume of younger guys to pick this up.

Here's an image of what I imagine you'd expect to see from such a movement:
View attachment 1782435
At best, images like this will start popping up at a dizzying rate, faster than the people who would make fun of them for it could even keep up with. some will crash and burn, but the ones that persist will be strong enough to refine their style and eccentricities and become big movers and shakers in the style world, causing a renaissance of sorts for the suit. (Best case scenario)

Eeeeehhhhh this is internally consistent in its own way I guess but I'd be on edge the second I saw him. Compared to the La Sape guys in the next post, this interestingly kind of proves Derek's point, that the whole is not just a sum of the parts. The sapeurs are dressed just as outrageously if not more so but they're beautiful in their own way. The pics of you, well, it's certainly not my style but the clothes seem to convey a certain sense of joy even if it looks pretty incoherent and loud. Meanwhile, this guy...well, ugh...I can already visualize his mugshot on the local news when they pick him up for loitering by a high school doing magic tricks for teenage girls and inviting them back to his parents' rental unit for beer and weed. You just know those pubes under his mouth smell like various bodily fluids stewed together in a the devil's cauldron.

But, to hop back on topic for a minute - I think the best way to get Gen Z and future generations into CM is to allow it to die and be reborn and subsequently absorbed into the greater world of dress. As long as it's seen as stuffy, boring, workplace attire it will continue to decline. For it to live, it needs to be set free and for people to discover it as a joyful part of dressing.

I see this a bit more on the women's side actually. I've been spending a lot of time in crowded boozy nightclubs full of loud music and douchey guys (don't ask...it's for work, I promise; I'm one of the technical guys on the company's sales team and selling can get kind of wild) and a lot of girls are there in tailoring whereas 10 years ago, you know, when I was young and dumb enough to voluntarily go to these places on my own time, it would have been more likely a little dress or a crop top and jeans. It's not frumpy though. Lots of oversized DBs in colors like hot pink, pastel blue, off white, etc. that they wear unbuttoned with matching short shorts or miniskirts. Also can be worn as big odd jackets draped like a cape over an LBD. Kind of the vibe Suistudio was going for before covid killed that, RIP. Very fun, but still very much tailoring ,and can be butttoned up to go into Serious Mode should they desire, though I can't imagine these are work clothes for any of them unless they're in fashion. I don't follow women's fashion closely enough to know what is driving this trend, and I don't know if men's fashion has a similar infrastructure to push trends at all, but hey, it's not impossible, apparently.
 

VegasRebel

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In fact there was actually a kinda scammy company called Combat Gent several years ago that specifically sold bottom of the barrel suits to young men with $160 to spare. They actually still exist, under new ownership (the original guy was a con artist MBA type who eventually imploded robbing Peter to pay Paul) and might be a more versatile option for you than these costumes you're spending your very limited funds on.

Ha, funny you mention them - I bought a couple of their suits. Their pants didn't hold up for me, but I still wear the jackets. They're nothing amazing, but they do the job well enough. Given that I spent on a suit what some people here pay for pants, they might be a good option.
 

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