French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

[ThinkDerm]

Following SeamasterLux's slightly disappointing experience with Kenjiro Suzuki two years ago, has anyone else here commissioned with him (and willing to share the experience, either on the forum or in PM)? Thanks.

why was there disappointment before?

 

[krakatoa]

why was there disappointment before?

See posts # 1595 and 1614.

 

[Kuro]

 

[Blake Stitched Blues]

Just wondering if anyone knows whether Berluti are still making the 'Forestiere' jacket since they took over Arnys a few years ago? I had a look at their site but found no mention of it.

 

[poorsod]

Yes. I picked up a linen Forestiere last summer at the rue de Sevres store. It may only be available at that store since it was the old Arnys site. You should call to confirm.

 

[supplychainman]

Took the day and read all 119 pages. Wow! What a treasure trove of information posted in this thread that highlights the excellent of SF. Special thanks to Dirnelli, Hightoned and many others who consistently produced great information and pictures on the beauty of French tailoring. As someone who is looking to commission my first bespoke suit in the next couple years, I have been swayed to make my way to Paris!

In summary of my reading, Cifonelli, Camps de Luca and the late Francesco Smalto are truly some of the best in the world; however, they are also incredibly expensive. Not to be forgotten, Marc Di Fiore provides a great "value" option. There has been additional talk of Kenjiro Suzuiki, but readers seem to be conflicted on the experience. He certainly has some beautiful pictures online though.

It appears these Parisians aren't just great suit makers, but also great shirt makers. Why not commission Mary Frittolini (if you have 6 months), Lucca or Charvet? Although Charvet isn't the best value, their experience sounds incredible and they make some beautiful shirts. I hope the Gents here continue to post their experiences, history and guidance as it has been a joy to read. In closing, I hope some of you can provide a confirmation (either below or through a PM) on what I believe the prices are for entry level Bespoke at Cifonelli, Camps, Smalto, and Di Fiore.

Cifonelli - $6,500 US
Camps de Luca - $7,000 US
Francesco Smalto- $7,500 US
Marc Di Fiore - $4,500 US

 

[aristoi bcn]

Mary Frittolini isn't working anymore.

Maison Sirven and Brahim Bouloujour are also two tailoring houses at the top level.

 

[supplychainman]

Mary Frittolini isn't working anymore.

Maison Sirven and Brahim Bouloujour are also two tailoring houses at the top level.

Thanks for the reply Aristoi. I will add research Sirvin and Bouloujour. Do they price levels look accurate to you?

 

[poorsod]

I finally had got to pick up my glasses from Maison Bonnet. The final fitting entailed fine turning of the shape of the glasses to fit my face.

The final appointment took about 1-1.5 hours.

 

[Stugotes]

Took the day and read all 119 pages. Wow! What a treasure trove of information posted in this thread that highlights the excellent of SF. Special thanks to Dirnelli, Hightoned and many others who consistently produced great information and pictures on the beauty of French tailoring. As someone who is looking to commission my first bespoke suit in the next couple years, I have been swayed to make my way to Paris!

In summary of my reading, Cifonelli, Camps de Luca and the late Francesco Smalto are truly some of the best in the world; however, they are also incredibly expensive. Not to be forgotten, Marc Di Fiore provides a great "value" option. There has been additional talk of Kenjiro Suzuiki, but readers seem to be conflicted on the experience. He certainly has some beautiful pictures online though.

It appears these Parisians aren't just great suit makers, but also great shirt makers. Why not commission Mary Frittolini (if you have 6 months), Lucca or Charvet? Although Charvet isn't the best value, their experience sounds incredible and they make some beautiful shirts. I hope the Gents here continue to post their experiences, history and guidance as it has been a joy to read. In closing, I hope some of you can provide a confirmation (either below or through a PM) on what I believe the prices are for entry level Bespoke at Cifonelli, Camps, Smalto, and Di Fiore.

Cifonelli - $6,500 US
Camps de Luca - $7,000 US
Francesco Smalto- $7,500 US
Marc Di Fiore - $4,500 US

From what I can tell from social media accounts the French style is quite similar to English, with rather strong lines and austere design (at least compared to Italians). If you are looking for a style like that, there might be better cheaper options for a first commission. To me, a good advice was to not start with the holy grails of tailoring, but to slowly find out what I really like in a suit. My first suit is a great bespoke garment, but there are details I wouldn't want now.

 

[Shahmeerkhurram]

Anyone, How much cloth do i need for a suit,pant and formal coat.I am 5 7 in height and am a 15 yr old boy.I am a thin guy so pls tell me the cloth in metres for sewing

 

[fassbinder]

From what I can tell from social media accounts the French style is quite similar to English, with rather strong lines and austere design (at least compared to Italians). If you are looking for a style like that, there might be better cheaper options for a first commission. To me, a good advice was to not start with the holy grails of tailoring, but to slowly find out what I really like in a suit. My first suit is a great bespoke garment, but there are details I wouldn't want now.

I would say it doesn't really look or feel like either. Well if you are comparing it to Naples, then French tailoring is closer to the English. In general, the finishing and chest treatment has more in common with Roman and Milanese tailors.

 

[Stugotes]

I would say it doesn't really look or feel like either. Well if you are comparing it to Naples, then French tailoring is closer to the English. In general, the finishing and chest treatment has more in common Roman and Milanese tailors.

That's true, but the popular definition of Italian tailoring seems to be "soft" or "unstructured".

What I was trying to say was basically that he can probably get what he likes in a high-end French suit somewhere else for far less money, especially when he's new to bespoke.

 

[sldsd]

I have a quote from Jean and Michel Grimbert about French style.

How would you define French chic?

Jean Cocteau once described the French as "sad Italians." I would say French chic is the synthesis of Italy and England. France has borrowed from England a certain old school, countryside tradition, with tweeds, cashmere and the color palette, but has taken the craftsmanship and the lightness of fabric from Italy. At Arnys we believe one can stay classically chic, but with a sprinkle of color.

 

[Sebsolal]

I have a quote from Jean and Michel Grimbert about French style.

How would you define French chic?

Jean Cocteau once described the French as "sad Italians." I would say French chic is the synthesis of Italy and England. France has borrowed from England a certain old school, countryside tradition, with tweeds, cashmere and the color palette, but has taken the craftsmanship and the lightness of fabric from Italy. At Arnys we believe one can stay classically chic, but with a sprinkle of color.

The exact quote from Jean Cocteau is "Italians are Frenchs that are happy" Which is quite true, just need to drive in Paris to understand this ahah