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Epaulet

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Is there any way to get the moleskin walts in a Rudy cut? Was hoping to see them listed on the new preorder page, but they're not there.


Oh yes, definitely. We have that fabric. I'll layer that in tomorrow.

I wish the "New Arrivals" tab would list items from most recent at the top to bottom.


Haha, you and me both. Keep your eyes out for our relaunch at the end of the October! They'll be all sorts of functional changes.

Also, just curious, what makes loro piano wool so great? I see the name thrown around but don't know anything about it.


Loro Piana is considered one of the finest suppliers of fabrics - especially wools - in the world. They own their own mills and use really phenomenal yarn to make their cloth. This heavier weight flannel is used in overcoats, and despite the fact that it's 100% wool, it has a softer hand and a better loft than many cashmeres that you'll find. It's really exceptional. This charcoal piece has a great depth to it and would be absolutely brilliant with tweed trousers and pair of brogues or monks.

edit: looks like these belts are only in sizes 36 and 40 and can be cut to fit. hmm...


Yes, given how tight the supply of leather for this was, we decided to go with just the two sizes.

But cutting it is really easy to do. I can shoot a quick video, but you can unscrew the "cap" of the belt and take out the raw edge completely. If you have a sturdy pair of scissors, you can even do it yourself. But any cobbler could knock it out in a minute.

All the factory finds fabrics look awesome. Which one do yall think is the least winter weight? We've still got a ways to go before our very mild winter down here.


Thanks! The medium wale corduroys and the cavalry twills are probably the lightest of this bunch. And the Regiment twills.

I am going to pick up one of the bombers and cant decide between the black, blue or suede one. I'm concerned the tobacco one is a bit too "dad" like (im young). Any recommendations? I have never bought anything from EP before. 


I'd say that the Loro Piana charcoal is the most mature one of the bunch. Both the suede and the Navy melton are entirely appropriate for a younger guy. Suede bombers are too often a blousy and staid style, so I wanted to give this one a slim shape and a bit of attitude. Matt's a young and fairly punk rock guy, and it looks spot on with his jeans and oxford shirt.

Either one will be really wearable. The wool is going to be much warmer and easier to care for. The suede is going to age incredibly and it's something that you can wear now and then again in the early Spring. And good lord, it feels so freaking good. But which one really depends on which one is more appropriate for what you need.

Same question but on the most winter weight 
cold%5B1%5D.gif


Lots of them. Wide Wale cords are thick. And Chartreuse Heavyweight Tweed and Chessboard are REALLY thick and warm.

I really like some of the cord options, but I don't want them in a Walt or Rudy cut. Is there any way some of the cord fabrics will be cut into a Rivet (or I guess Bedford cord) fit in the future?


Not this season, but that's definitely on the list!
 

applky

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I'd say that the Loro Piana charcoal is the most mature one of the bunch. Both the suede and the Navy melton are entirely appropriate for a younger guy. Suede bombers are too often a blousy and staid style, so I wanted to give this one a slim shape and a bit of attitude. Matt's a young and fairly punk rock guy, and it looks spot on with his jeans and oxford shirt.

Saw them today. Tried the suede one on. They'd all look good on a younger guy, and man... that suede. That is probably the best casual jacket I've ever seen.
 

StanleyVanBuren

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guys...

GUYS

I got my Marcello jacket today. Holy ****, it's awesome. I understand that these have not been a big seller but frankly I am baffled that such is the case. The fabric is great, the pattern is ass-kicking (future old men unite!), and the construction is cool in a way that no one outside of Italy can even begin to try to replicate. One possibility for slow sales is that guys are confounded by the sizing on these. I was. So let me try to help.

Here is my sizing advice. I'm wearing a Euro size 46 here (ie. 'murrican size 36). I usually wear a 34R in basically everything else, and, of note, in the Epaulet Southwick jackets. The 46 Marcello is not perfect, but it's very, very close. Closer than I was expecting. Let me address each point:

1. Shoulders -- I thought the shoulders would be too wide. They're not. This is a totally different shoulder construction so of course it's... totally different. Most guys can probably expect that there should be between an additional 1/4 to 3/4 more across the shoulders than on a comparable suit jacket already in their closet. For reference, I was at the far end of that range. The southwick 34R has a 16" shoulder and the Marcello is 16.75". If it looks too wide in my pic, tell me, but I don't think it does.

2. Chest -- For me, this 46 has an inch more in the chest (laid flat -- so 2" overall). It's a little roomier but frankly it's nearly unnoticeable and along with the rest of the construction being slightly different, feels just fine. I would call this a "rounding error" or "within the margin of error" for most guys looking for a decent OTR fit.

3. Arms -- here is where I will have to have alterations done. Whereas the Southwick 34R is perfect for me OTR, these are a little long (maybe 1/2") and a little wide (again, only by maybe 1/2"). I also have skinny bird arms so I would expect the typical guy to only have a potential length issue and not a width issue -- but either way these are not expensive alterations.
---> one more "arms" note: SLEEVE PITCH! most people don't even know what this means, but if you do, it's usually the final factor in achieving a perfect fit after you've sorted out all your other bullshit. I have a very erect posture (shut up) and I've never found a jacket with a better OTR sleeve pitch for me than this. If you know how to ******* stand up straight, this may be the jacket for you.

4. Overall length and buttoning point -- nothing you can do here. This is a shorter jacket and it has a higher buttoning point. It's more casual so shut up. This is another thing that made me hesitate when I saw the original product shots. Those of you who peruse WAYWT may recall I took some heat for an extremely high buttoning point on my H&M coke dealer blazer. And with good reason, too. That one really should only be worn unbuttoned. This one, however, is just on the other side of "fair game" when it comes to buttoning point. It's a little high, but it looks great buttoned and it feels great wearing it buttoned too. I don't have any concerns about "tie peek" or even just my shirt placket billowing out from under the top button; everything is kept in check.

5. Waist -- This is the one place I really can't help, sorry. Look at me; I am not the person to ask about this. For me, it's fine. Again, sizing up one seems like the way to go as this is nipped in the waist the right amount for me but I usually wear a 34R.

In closing, I would say that the biggest reason to jump on this now is the fact that there simply won't be any more. Mike said he can't get a hold of the guy in Italy after lots of tries. Sounds like the guy showed up to Pitti, took an order for some hidden button-down shirts and these jackets, and then decided that was enough to retire in Albania, which is what Italy is going to look like in a few years anyway if the economic problems persist, and figured he'd just shortcut it, move to Albania now, buy a stolen Mercedes and live the good life in the Balkans. That's how I like to think of it at least. What was I saying? Oh yeah, size up one, and buy this jacket.
 

jpc9

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Hands down one of the best posts I've read across the entire forum, SVB. Well done.

Mike ought to contract your sales pitches; I'm sold on one of these now.





guys...

GUYS

I got my Marcello jacket today. Holy ****, it's awesome. I understand that these have not been a big seller but frankly I am baffled that such is the case. The fabric is great, the pattern is ass-kicking (future old men unite!), and the construction is cool in a way that no one outside of Italy can even begin to try to replicate. One possibility for slow sales is that guys are confounded by the sizing on these. I was. So let me try to help.

Here is my sizing advice. I'm wearing a Euro size 46 here (ie. 'murrican size 36). I usually wear a 34R in basically everything else, and, of note, in the Epaulet Southwick jackets. The 46 Marcello is not perfect, but it's very, very close. Closer than I was expecting. Let me address each point:

1. Shoulders -- I thought the shoulders would be too wide. They're not. This is a totally different shoulder construction so of course it's... totally different. Most guys can probably expect that there should be between an additional 1/4 to 3/4 more across the shoulders than on a comparable suit jacket already in their closet. For reference, I was at the far end of that range. The southwick 34R has a 16" shoulder and the Marcello is 16.75". If it looks too wide in my pic, tell me, but I don't think it does.

2. Chest -- For me, this 46 has an inch more in the chest (laid flat -- so 2" overall). It's a little roomier but frankly it's nearly unnoticeable and along with the rest of the construction being slightly different, feels just fine. I would call this a "rounding error" or "within the margin of error" for most guys looking for a decent OTR fit.

3. Arms -- here is where I will have to have alterations done. Whereas the Southwick 34R is perfect for me OTR, these are a little long (maybe 1/2") and a little wide (again, only by maybe 1/2"). I also have skinny bird arms so I would expect the typical guy to only have a potential length issue and not a width issue -- but either way these are not expensive alterations.
---> one more "arms" note: SLEEVE PITCH! most people don't even know what this means, but if you do, it's usually the final factor in achieving a perfect fit after you've sorted out all your other bullshit. I have a very erect posture (shut up) and I've never found a jacket with a better OTR sleeve pitch for me than this. If you know how to ******* stand up straight, this may be the jacket for you.

4. Overall length and buttoning point -- nothing you can do here. This is a shorter jacket and it has a higher buttoning point. It's more casual so shut up. This is another thing that made me hesitate when I saw the original product shots. Those of you who peruse WAYWT may recall I took some heat for an extremely high buttoning point on my H&M coke dealer blazer. And with good reason, too. That one really should only be worn unbuttoned. This one, however, is just on the other side of "fair game" when it comes to buttoning point. It's a little high, but it looks great buttoned and it feels great wearing it buttoned too. I don't have any concerns about "tie peek" or even just my shirt placket billowing out from under the top button; everything is kept in check.

5. Waist -- This is the one place I really can't help, sorry. Look at me; I am not the person to ask about this. For me, it's fine. Again, sizing up one seems like the way to go as this is nipped in the waist the right amount for me but I usually wear a 34R.

In closing, I would say that the biggest reason to jump on this now is the fact that there simply won't be any more. Mike said he can't get a hold of the guy in Italy after lots of tries. Sounds like the guy showed up to Pitti, took an order for some hidden button-down shirts and these jackets, and then decided that was enough to retire in Albania, which is what Italy is going to look like in a few years anyway if the economic problems persist, and figured he'd just shortcut it, move to Albania now, buy a stolen Mercedes and live the good life in the Balkans. That's how I like to think of it at least. What was I saying? Oh yeah, size up one, and buy this jacket.
 
Last edited:

wj4

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Guys, just got the Eisenhower. It's ridic, pictures are really nice, but it still doesn't do it justice.

Pictures, bro.

Chris: Let me try on your jacket! :slayer: Haha.
 

oisin

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guys...
GUYS

I got my Marcello jacket today. Holy ****, it's awesome. I understand that these have not been a big seller but frankly I am baffled that such is the case. The fabric is great, the pattern is ass-kicking (future old men unite!), and the construction is cool in a way that no one outside of Italy can even begin to try to replicate. One possibility for slow sales is that guys are confounded by the sizing on these. I was. So let me try to help.

Here is my sizing advice. I'm wearing a Euro size 46 here (ie. 'murrican size 36). I usually wear a 34R in basically everything else, and, of note, in the Epaulet Southwick jackets. The 46 Marcello is not perfect, but it's very, very close. Closer than I was expecting. Let me address each point:

1. Shoulders -- I thought the shoulders would be too wide. They're not. This is a totally different shoulder construction so of course it's... totally different. Most guys can probably expect that there should be between an additional 1/4 to 3/4 more across the shoulders than on a comparable suit jacket already in their closet. For reference, I was at the far end of that range. The southwick 34R has a 16" shoulder and the Marcello is 16.75". If it looks too wide in my pic, tell me, but I don't think it does.

2. Chest -- For me, this 46 has an inch more in the chest (laid flat -- so 2" overall). It's a little roomier but frankly it's nearly unnoticeable and along with the rest of the construction being slightly different, feels just fine. I would call this a "rounding error" or "within the margin of error" for most guys looking for a decent OTR fit.

3. Arms -- here is where I will have to have alterations done. Whereas the Southwick 34R is perfect for me OTR, these are a little long (maybe 1/2") and a little wide (again, only by maybe 1/2"). I also have skinny bird arms so I would expect the typical guy to only have a potential length issue and not a width issue -- but either way these are not expensive alterations.
---> one more "arms" note: SLEEVE PITCH! most people don't even know what this means, but if you do, it's usually the final factor in achieving a perfect fit after you've sorted out all your other bullshit. I have a very erect posture (shut up) and I've never found a jacket with a better OTR sleeve pitch for me than this. If you know how to ******* stand up straight, this may be the jacket for you.

4. Overall length and buttoning point -- nothing you can do here. This is a shorter jacket and it has a higher buttoning point. It's more casual so shut up. This is another thing that made me hesitate when I saw the original product shots. Those of you who peruse WAYWT may recall I took some heat for an extremely high buttoning point on my H&M coke dealer blazer. And with good reason, too. That one really should only be worn unbuttoned. This one, however, is just on the other side of "fair game" when it comes to buttoning point. It's a little high, but it looks great buttoned and it feels great wearing it buttoned too. I don't have any concerns about "tie peek" or even just my shirt placket billowing out from under the top button; everything is kept in check.

5. Waist -- This is the one place I really can't help, sorry. Look at me; I am not the person to ask about this. For me, it's fine. Again, sizing up one seems like the way to go as this is nipped in the waist the right amount for me but I usually wear a 34R.

In closing, I would say that the biggest reason to jump on this now is the fact that there simply won't be any more. Mike said he can't get a hold of the guy in Italy after lots of tries. Sounds like the guy showed up to Pitti, took an order for some hidden button-down shirts and these jackets, and then decided that was enough to retire in Albania, which is what Italy is going to look like in a few years anyway if the economic problems persist, and figured he'd just shortcut it, move to Albania now, buy a stolen Mercedes and live the good life in the Balkans. That's how I like to think of it at least. What was I saying? Oh yeah, size up one, and buy this jacket.

dude, that looks sick. good stuff. also love seeing pics of your place.
 

bestak

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Hello

I just came back from my turkish taylor., i have let to him my epaulet pants for resizing

Epaulet gets kudos/congratulations from him for the quality of the fabric of my the Rivet Chino Oxford cloth grey
 
Last edited:

NewYorkIslander

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SVB, great write up.

Just want to echo the comments about the shoulders. These are neapolitan, and one of the features that separates a Neapolitan jacket from other styles, particularly English and American cuts, is how the shoulders fit. So listen up to what SvB has to say on this, even though the shoulder measurements are different, the fit will be as he said...right, because of the way the shoulders are built into the jacket.

And dude, it looks great on you...nice work.
 

thebunk

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I was planning on jumping on the same SVB jacket but the sizing concerns and lack of size 44s (I take a 42 in all of my EP jackets) means forever unhappy face :(
 

bestak

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@thebunk:

forget what i wrote i mistake the sizing between EU and US sorry


you could try a 46EU/36US i don't think that the measures/sizing for this size are "big".
The only issue perhaps will be the sleeve length if the "Boutonnière" is real, otherwise it's easy to fix.

The only risk you take is to resend back the item. You have to compute if the shipping cost is worth the value than having regrets to not have trying

smile.gif
 
Last edited:

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