Eidos Napoli

[NickPollica]



I would think theses changes are minor to the general public (and maybe even buyers). You mean to say a Bloomingdales shopper looking for a suit would pass up an Eidos model based on 1cm length, shape of a lapel, and the third button? I would think these are apparent and more relevant to a more informed crowd like those on SF. Interesting...

If you could see the the difference in our sell through numbers you'd be very surprised. The 3 button alone makes selling tailoring in bloomingdales basically impossible and the 98% of the sellers on the floor think that "the young guys" want to wear shorter jackets with narrow lapels. What funny is that this opinion is almost exclusively help by sellers that are 50+. Basically every "classic" tailoring store thinks that is what it takes to sell tailoring to a younger customer.

 

[ChetB]

Are the cotton knit ties supposed to be 64" long or did mine get stretched somehow? Even at 6' 2" and with a double four in hand I can't wear them.

 

[FLW]



I would think theses changes are minor to the general public (and maybe even buyers). You mean to say a Bloomingdales shopper looking for a suit would pass up an Eidos model based on 1cm length, shape of a lapel, and the third button? I would think these are apparent and more relevant to a more informed crowd like those on SF. This a result of looking at the data/sales numbers?

If you could see the the difference in our sell through numbers you'd be very surprised. The 3 button alone makes selling tailoring in bloomingdales basically impossible and the 98% of the sellers on the floor think that "the young guys" want to wear shorter jackets with narrow lapels. What funny is that this opinion is almost exclusively help by sellers that are 50+. Basically every "classic" tailoring store thinks that is what it takes to sell tailoring to a younger customer.

I totally believe this. Bloomie's SA's were always borderline shocked when I would skip over shorter, "hip" jackets and go for Tipos.

I always thought Tenero was slimmer in waist and shoulder, huh...

Speaking of Tipo, it was in action today

 

[clee1982]

General public does know what they think look good or bad regardless true or not, and certainly don't care why (though lapel size, leg tapering 3 vs. 2 button what not tends to stand out), so what's in trend definitely factor in.

From my own personal experience wise Balthazar looks better on me than Tipo (yea I know it's just 0.5 inch difference in length), my theory is probably because I'm a short guy (5ft7in). I take EU 46R in Balthazar and EU 46S in Tipo so the difference might be even smaller. The Tipo I own is from either the very first or second season when Eidos just came to Bloomingdale while the Balthazar I own is from last season so might have something to do with the manufacture change as well.

Tipo on me just looks like another jacket that "fits" (or fits ish, shoulder is not that great) but nothing special (waist suppression looks like it's not truly there even though it's fairly suppressed). Balthazar just looks better, from shoulder to the overall fit, though it still fits different than Isaia Gregory I have to say.

I have tried NMWA in EU46R which works except just a bit too long. I have only tried Tenero in EU48R (from Saks, they don't carry EU46), and my gut feeling is Tenero or NMWA in EU46S is probably going to work out the best.

p.s. I'm not one of those guys who wants jacket to be super fitted, one of my favorite 3 roll to 2 jacket (and still is) is the old Ralph Lauren Polo II made by Corneliani (though arm hole can be higher), so if you ask me why Tipo doesn't work I wouldn't really be able to tell you other than it just looks plain for my body type. I do like the 3 roll to 2 and larger lapel on Tipo though.

 

[rnguy001]

Saw these - wondering if they were Tipo or Tenero..

If you're talking about this hospack jacket, I purchased this morning in eBay. Just take my Eidos jackets normal size (48us) but according to the online measures, I'm afraid could be small. If you want can post pics when received it

 

[FLW]



Saw these - wondering if they were Tipo or Tenero..

90% sure not Tipo.

May be Primo or some other not-often-seen model. Seller has some Primos in other fabrics

 

[pi34]

There's some pretty good deals (very) on three styles of Eidos suits on Bloomingdales.com. It doesn't specify whether they are short or regular... probably regular. I'll see how it goes! I just ordered the Gingham and the Tonal check. I'm not certain that the Tonal check will actually fulfill though for ~$500 a pop. The tonal check looks awesome... gingham looks nice too but I'm concerned maybe it'll be a little sheeny based on the photo (but I have yet to see an EIDOS suit that I don't love... so I guess I'm not that worried.)... may order the cross strap chukkas tomorrow.

 

[NickPollica]



Saw these - wondering if they were Tipo or Tenero..

Tipo - None of the other models are ever available 1/4 lined.

 

[sebastian mcfox]

If someone could go ahead and draw up a quick infographic of all the Eidos models that would be great. I keep losing track..

 

[YseanY]

Tipo - None of the other models are ever available 1/4 lined.

seller told me it's a primo (and sent a picture of the tag - granted it could be a picture from another jacket)?

 

[NickPollica]



seller told me it's a primo (and sent a picture of the tag - granted it could be a picture from another jacket)?

I developed the patterns and the primo has never existed with any bemberg on the inside. The jacket in the photo is a tipo. You can also tell because the shoulder has more structure than the primo, which is completely soft with grinze. The only thing I can think of is that the jacket pictured is not what you will receive if you order.

As for model breakdowns, Ive done this before. If you search my posts you can find it.

 

[ferdsje]



I developed the patterns and the primo has never existed with any bemberg on the inside. The jacket in the photo is a tipo. You can also tell because the shoulder has more structure than the primo, which is completely soft with grinze. The only thing I can think of is that the jacket pictured is not what you will receive if you order.

As for model breakdowns, Ive done this before. If you search my posts you can find it.

Also the online jacket measures didn't look like a normal 48 jacket. Shoulder and large length sounds rare to me (43 And 72cm), much more like a 46 size. I didn't pay much atention for that because many times measures are not much accurate. Anyway, jacket it's on way home so, I will post impressions when finally arrives.

Thanks nickpollica for clarifying one more time

 

[n2pua]



Tipo - None of the other models are ever available 1/4 lined.

Question answered.

Nevermind

 

[YseanY]

I developed the patterns and the primo has never existed with any bemberg on the inside. The jacket in the photo is a tipo. You can also tell because the shoulder has more structure than the primo, which is completely soft with grinze. The only thing I can think of is that the jacket pictured is not what you will receive if you order.

As for model breakdowns, Ive done this before. If you search my posts you can find it.

Wow, very interesting! Not to question your knowledge on your own product, but this is the picture he sent, a Primo tag with Bemberg lining? Just trying to figure out his items before I take a plunge.

 

[diokanye]

Tipo—mostly dead. Supposedly some small specialty shops carry it still. No clue which. One of the most conservative cuts. 3-button. More classic length. Natural shoulder, but not totally unpadded (if you can call what it has pads—mostly just the canvas plus a little extra. Maybe even just another lay of canvas in the shoulder is almost what it feels like).


Tenero—the main cut you'll find nowadays. Carried by most places that carry Eidos. 3-button. Less padding than the Tipo in the shoulder (i.e. almost none at all—just a lightweight canvas going up from the chest through the shoulder). More contemporary, shorter length. Slightly more open quarters than Tipo.



Notice one is shorter than the other. I've found length to be pretty inconsistent, by as much as 3/4". The shorter length is generally considered the length it's supposed to be, though.

Lorenzo—defunct. Sold only for one season (FW14). 3-button. Wider shoulders. Swooping, curving, 4-inch lapel inspired by Florentine tailor Liverano.


Ciro—descendent of the Lorenzo. afaik only Marcus Malmborg in Sweden carries it, at least insofar as he does MTM. Lapels still swoop and curve but the quarters have been closed up a bit more, and other modifications.


NMWA—the other descendent of the Lorenzo, except modified specifically by Greg Lellouche and Antonio and sold exclusively by NMWA. It started as essentially the same as the Ciro, but has since deviated. 3-button. Lapels are now straight-cut. Length is longer than Ciro. Shoulders feel like they've been brought in as well (someone would have to confirm, but that's how it feels to me).


^^This is SS15 NMWA cut^^



^^This is FW15 NMWA cut^^



^^This is SS16 NMWA cut^^

Primo—slimmest of the cuts, from my understanding. Similar to Tenero otherwise. 3-button. Not sure what else is different besides slimness.


Balthazar—the cut that Bloomingdales carries now. Based on the Tipo, but shorter, and 2-button, with a slightly bellied lapel.

I have no images of this to show. Maybe somebody else does!

Lavato—the completely unstructured, washed blazers, which I don't think are produced anymore.

No images of this either... Somebody else?