Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

[DorianGreen]

What is “gemming?”

The gemming is the technique of sewing the insole to the welt by using a rib of canvas glued to the insole. It's obviously of inferior quality and likely to be less durable than a trditional construction where the welt is sewn directly to the insole by carving the latter.

Here the two different insoles in comparison.

https://shoegazing.com/2023/04/28/the-picture-goodyear-welted-without-gemming/

 

[bengal-stripe]

What is “gemming?”

Here is a good introduction into 'gemming', the textile rib to which the welt gets attached in the vast majority of machine-made shoes. Gemming was introduced in the 1950s and can't be as bad as some claim, as millions of shoes have been produced since then.

The picture - Goodyear welted without gemming - Shoegazing.com

In my social media recently when I wrote about Goodyear welted shoes made without gemming - the canvas rib glued onto the insole which the welt is

shoegazing.com

 

[Encore]

Wholecut Chelsea Boots (old model) in 915 last.

 

[Artisan Fan]

The gemming is the technique of sewing the insole to the welt by using a rib of canvas glued to the insole. It's obviously of inferior quality and likely to be less durable than a trditional construction where the welt is sewn directly to the insole by carving the latter.

Here the two different insoles in comparison.

https://shoegazing.com/2023/04/28/the-picture-goodyear-welted-without-gemming/

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Thanks.

 

[KarlHungus]

EG for RLPL

 

[Mr_Spud]

Do any of the more regular EG wearers have any comparisons of the 72 vs 303 last that they would be kind enough to share? I get the descriptions but a visual comparison of the two would be very handy.

 

[jischwar]

Do any of the more regular EG wearers have any comparisons of the 72 vs 303 last that they would be kind enough to share? I get the descriptions but a visual comparison of the two would be very handy.

Snuff are 72 and CC are 303

 

[Mr_Spud]

Snuff are 72 and CC are 303
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72 just a bit fuller, say? What’s your take?

 

[DorianGreen]

Difficult to think of a nicer split toe derby than the Dover, here in Dark Oak on the 606 last.

 

[DorianGreen]

Snuff are 72 and CC are 303
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How is this colour of Country Calf named? I love it.

 

[jischwar]

72 just a bit fuller, say? What’s your take?

I'm wearing 72 with a storm welt today, for maybe a better comparison. 303 toe box is maybe taller but narrower than 72. Possibly a touch more instep on 72 but fairly similar fits in the same size. Could maybe even argue waist is more shapely on 303, comparatively

 

[jischwar]

How is this colour of Country Calf named? I love it.

It's their grey country calf

 

[Mr_Spud]

So

I'm wearing 72 with a storm welt today, for maybe a better comparison. 303 toe box is maybe taller but narrower than 72. Possibly a touch more instep on 72 but fairly similar fits in the same size. Could maybe even argue waist is more shapely on 303, comparatively
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Somehow the 72 looks a little chunkier and I like it.....

 

[jischwar]

So

Somehow the 72 looks a little chunkier and I like it.....

Yeah, I'd agree with that. It's a straighter last, which probably leads to that conclusion

 

[Braid]

72 just a bit fuller, say? What’s your take?

From above they look quite similar, when you look from the side you can see more clearly that toe shape is different. 72 toe is more bulbous/raised with a clearly higher toe spring while the 303 is more chiselled and close to the ground.

In summary I think 72 last is perfect for a casual boot while 303 is a bit more refined and therefore suited for slightly dressier options while retaining a rounded and casual appearance.

Pictures of my recent factory sale score for reference (thanks @PairOfDerby's for sharing the news here, I would have missed it otherwise as I never receive the email from EG!), Galway in 72 and Newmarket in 303: