Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

[CTBrummie]



Is anyone producing rtw offerings using zug and veldt construction? I saw a trickers boot however it was not veldt.

I don't think so at the moment. Tricker's haven't made veldts for well over a decade. Cheaney make the Pennine boot, Fiennes boot and Cairngorn shoe in a very robust country calf which feels like it will take a beating but it's not zug...

 

[RogerP]

Zug leather was developed in the Swiss town of Zug.

Die difference between Zug leather and any old grain leather, was the fact that the thrifty Swiss introduced some waste product of the Swiss chocolate industry (cocoa molasses, or whatever it was) into the tanning or finishing process. So traditionally Zug leather had a nice chocolate smell.

Whether modern Zug leather still comes from Switzerland and uses chocolate in it's formula, I doubt somehow.

Fascinating - thanks much.

 

[CTBrummie]

Fuether to the above, I've never been sure about the authenticity of that story of the origin of zug although I have no proof to the contrary!

The classic boots were made with a leather known as Martin zug from the Bridge of Wear tannery, if I remember correctly.

 

[ThinkDerm]



I don'n think so, but CTBrummie can no doubt be of help here. We're trying to have a Galway made up in zug (or as EG refers to it: heather gorse) and suede, with Veldtschoen, ridgeway and shearling lining. PM if you're interested.

interested. cost?

 

[cyeogh]

Need some advice.

Purchased a pair of Edward Green Picadilly loafers last month in a UK 6E. The fit is fine although after several hours of wear my right feet hurts at the top of the right shoe vamp, no issues with the left feet. Any recommendations on what I should do and if a cobbler can stretch the right shoe?

 

[Farhad19620]



Need some advice.

Purchased a pair of Edward Green Picadilly loafers last month in a UK 6E.  The fit is fine although after several hours of wear my right feet hurts at the top of the right shoe vamp, no issues with the left feet.  Any recommendations on what I should do and if a cobbler can stretch the right shoe?

Congratulations on your new shoes, I would leave it and if after about a dozen wears it does not feel comfortable then you may want to take it to a cobbler for stretching but I have myself do not prefer this method.

 

[Farhad19620]

...

^^Marvelous, I'm extremely impressed. That's yet another reason we need to do the rough out Galway in heather gorse/suede – so we something to enjoy for the rest of our lives and eventually pass on to our sons, ha!




I have owned a pair of Galway boots in Zug/ heather gorse/ – if this is what EG call Zug the leather has a dull matt waxy sort of a Finnish and a hint of red. The leather did soften up very well after a while, It would be interesting to know what colour suede are you going to match the boots which?

 

[S K M]

Great photo, thanks! I think it looks very promising. We're thinking some shade of brown might work, but we'll probably have to see some swatches in the flesh to make sure which one, since the heather gorse is such a distinct colour. Also blue could work, and no doubt red berry suede, but I reckon the red would be a bit too flash and fashion forward for a die hard country boot.

Cheers,
SKM

 

[S K M]

interested. cost?

We have no idea yet since we have to work out the exact design, and if we should deal with it through Skoak or directly through EG. But we're not in a rush – as long as they're ready for next winter season it should be fine. Please PM me if you're still interested and I'll put you on the list.

Cheers,
SKM

 

[cwh812]



We have no idea yet since we have to work out the exact design, and if we should deal with it through Skoak or directly through EG. But we're not in a rush – as long as they're ready for next winter season it should be fine. Please PM me if you're still interested and I'll put you on the list.

Cheers,
SKM

Potentially interested based upon finalized/chosen colors and other details.

 

[S K M]

Potentially interested based upon finalized/chosen colors and other details.

That's great, please PM me so I won't forget you once we have settled on the details of the boot. As of now six members have shown interest, so I think it looks very promising for the project.

 

[smoothie1]

Gentlemen,
Does anyone prefer an all heather gorse (zug) Galway boot for a potential group MTO? I am contemplating something possibly more like the classic (without suede). Otherwise, it could be the same: 64 last, ridgeway sole, possible shearling lined shaft, likely E fitting. What do interested parties think? Please advise and PM, if you think these details attractive and suitable. Cheers.

 

[VegTan]

What is Zug, exactly?? Is it something other than simple?pebble grain leather?

Zug leather was developed in the Swiss town of Zug.

Die difference between Zug leather and any old grain leather, was the fact that the thrifty Swiss introduced some waste product of the Swiss chocolate industry (cocoa molasses, or whatever it was) into the tanning or finishing process. So traditionally Zug leather had a nice chocolate smell.

Whether modern Zug leather still comes from Switzerland and uses chocolate in it's formula, I doubt somehow.

AFAIK, Zug was Scottish tannery W & J Martin's trademark. Just like Nettleton's trademark Loafer, it is now a generic name.
http://www.trademarkia.com/zug-wj-martin-72285033.html

http://archive.org/stream/leatherhidesskin003965mbp#page/n374/mode/1up

http://www.aacrack.co.uk/catalogue.asp?product_id=52
A classic Horween leather here at A & A Crack & Sons Ltd. A heavy weight waxed leather drum stuffed from steer hides with the original 'Martins grain' known traditionally as 'Zug'

England tannery William Paul also made scotch grain leather and named it Beva.

http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/history/bwpages/21.htm

Made of waterproof Beva leather, this boot has been evolved after considerable experiment, and incorporates the best principles of the French and Swiss designs.

http://www.vads.ac.uk/large.php?uid=68931

http://www.pictorialgems.com/1954-Alan-Caswell-Kettering-William-Paul-Leeds-Ad.26357

Here is a recipe for Zug and Beva.

http://archive.org/stream/manufactureoflea00bennuoft#page/362/mode/1up

 

[RogerP]

Quote:
Love the concept, but I'm afraid I have different preferences for a number of details. 1) prefer double dainite soles 2) prefer 82 last in an E width (though I wouldn't rule out another last if I could arrive at a point of reasonable reassurance as to likely fit. I know a 9E 82 will work 100%). 3) any lind of shearling lining is a deal-breaker. I have very warm feet. ;-) Also - is this something you are contemplating running on your own, or through a vendor?

 

[RogerP]

VegTan - I look forward to reading through that info you have helpfully prpvided.