Discuss Swaine Adeney Brigg cases

[Patek]



That's beautiful work, if you have the funds, go for it.

Is there any truth in some of what he said about SAB?

"Also I see that SAB have used a thin leather wrapped around board for the F and Back panels, I would use 3.5 - 4mm Sedgewicks Bridle Butt, MUCH more durable, and a better quality of leather."

"The front and back panel is made from Bridle butt ( a much better cut than the more usual bridle shoulder, and at double the price, if SAB don't say butt, which they don't, then you have to assume shoulder)"

 

[Journeyman]

Here are a couple of photos of my SAB bags.

One is, I understand, made by SAB for RL Purple Label:

The other is from SAB themselves, a "Whitehall" top-frame bag:

 

[celery]



Is there any truth in some of what he said about SAB?
"Also I see that SAB have used a thin leather wrapped around board for the F and Back panels, I would use 3.5 - 4mm Sedgewicks Bridle Butt, MUCH more durable, and a better quality of leather."
"The front and back panel is made from Bridle butt ( a much better cut than the more usual bridle shoulder, and at double the price, if SAB don't say butt, which they don't, then you have to assume shoulder)"

Yeah the butt is the better cut and most expensive (we call them premium bends in the states). Now, the shoulder is the next best cut and frankly is still excellent. English Bridle leather is fantastic stuff in general. While I don't know SAB's business practices, I can't imagine they only use shoulders. You can cut more panels, straps and corners by buying a whole back (shoulder, butt, and belly) for a lower cost. At the very least the back minus the belly for the best cuts. I feel it would be a fair assumption to say that SAB utilizes both.

As far as linings, I tend to agree. Linings tend to deteriorate and are often held in place with a strong adhesive and stitched. Bridle leather at that weight should pretty much last a lifetime. SAB also uses Sedgewicks, and your guy uses Liston locks (again same ones SAB uses). Top stuff, and from the pictures, the stitched and construction all look impeccable.

 

[nate10184]



SAB also uses Sedgewicks, and your guy uses Liston locks (again same ones SAB uses). Top stuff, and from the pictures, the stitched and construction all look impeccable.

This makes sense but I've noticed SAB uses different names for their colors. Any idea what SAB's colors (London Tan, Havana and Chestnut) equate to in Sedgwick nomenclature?

 

[Patek]

Thanks gents, great feedback. I guess I will be the guinea pig on this and report back.

 

[celery]



This makes sense but I've noticed SAB uses different names for their colors. Any idea what SAB's colors (London Tan, Havana and Chestnut) equate to in Sedgwick nomenclature?

My best guess is that SAB custom orders their colors, most well known brands generally work with suppliers to get something exclusive.

Though, if I had to match names and colors, I'd say that London Tan = London Color, it would deepen in hue after oil treatments, though I wouldn't be surprised if a bit of light havana is added for depth.. Chestnut = Hazel or Light Havana though it seems like it has a hint of red. And Havana = A couple shades lighter than Dark Havana.

 

[casemaker]

Hi , In my view, Bridle Butt is the very best cut, and I doubt anyone would argue, but, at twice the price! I am using Butt because I was not happy with the quality of some of the shoulders I've had over the past few years, The quality of English Bridle shoulder can vary a lot from poor to excellent, but the best shoulder does not compare with the sedgewicks butt, which for my use, is a close to perfect that I have yet found.

The ONLY reason that shoulder would be used rather than butt would be cost / profit, and if someone says simply " Bridle Leather" I would not assume that they have used the butt at double the price. If in doubt ask.

Obviously I pass the extra expense of using bridle butt on to the client, but my time is the greater part of the cost of a case, so my view is that it is a false economy to try and save money by using poorer quality leathers!

Patek, I have asked a couple of clients to get in touch, so have a chat with them, and see what you think. Thanks to everyone for your kind remaks

regards, simon

 

[Patek]



Hi , In my view, Bridle Butt is the very best cut, and I doubt anyone would argue, but, at twice the price! I am using Butt because I was not happy with the quality of some of the shoulders I've had over the past few years, The quality of English Bridle shoulder can vary a lot from poor to excellent, but the best shoulder does not compare with the sedgewicks butt, which for my use, is a close to perfect that I have yet found.

The ONLY reason that shoulder would be used rather than butt would be cost / profit, and if someone says simply " Bridle Leather" I would not assume that they have used the butt at double the price. If in doubt ask.

Obviously I pass the extra expense of using bridle butt on to the client, but my time is the greater part of the cost of a case, so my view is that it is a false economy to try and save money by using poorer quality leathers!

Patek, I have asked a couple of clients to get in touch, so have a chat with them, and see what you think. Thanks to everyone for your kind remaks

regards, simon

 

Awesome, I have decided to move forward in commissioning a bag. Please email me to discuss interior details and dimensions. With my limited knowledge of bag fabrication, I threw your bags up here critique and they seem to have passed with flying colors!

 

[SHS]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Great thread. I can't help you with the purchase anymore, but sharing as caring: here's my SAB top-frame briefcase for BB's Peal series. Machine-stitched, but the leather used is the sublime thing of SAB's. London Tan with green pigskin lining. Plenty of room without bulky looks.

Looks great. Any pictures of the lining?

 

[nate10184]



Awesome, I have decided to move forward in commissioning a bag. Please email me to discuss interior details and dimensions. With my limited knowledge of bag fabrication, I threw your bags up here critique and they seem to have passed with flying colors!

Congrats, I have a feeling you will be more than satisfied with your purchase. I've been aware of Mr. Baker's work for a few years and hope to commission something from him in the future. Half of me is excited to see the finished product, half of me fears the inevitable SF feeding frenzy that will follow.

 

[jburch]

If you commission a case from Simon Baker Casemakers I’m sure you’ll be well pleased. I have purchased five Simon Baker cases over the past 15 years and each is exquisite. His craftsmanship and attention to detail is simply amazing. I’ve seen the best from Swaine Adeney and the other London best houses and Simon Baker’s work stands up to any of them and his service level is head and shoulders above. While Mr. Baker’s cases are not inexpensive, they are worth every pound.

 

[nohit]

Just learned they have the same case used in From Russia with Love.. interesting.

.. but sad to see it doesn't have the same latches. Horizontal to release gas, vertical to open the case, iirc.

 

[Ich_Dien]



...
.. but sad to see it doesn't have the same latches. Horizontal to release gas, vertical to open the case, iirc.

Might have a problem getting that through customs.

 

[md2010]



Here are a couple of photos of my SAB bags.
One is, I understand, made by SAB for RL Purple Label:

The briefcase looks to be a rl pl Cooper briefcase.Cooper briefcase is not made by SAB. They are made in Italy.

 

[Olivier F]

Very very bad experience!!! Run away!!!!!
I ordered 2 bags by internet and after spoken to the responsible of the store. These bags were supposed to be for everyday use and delivered me 2 bags to travel (very big). After many discussions I accepted to keep one (of course both of them were still never used) and I just asked to change me one, and they did not even accept. They offered me a discount on the next bag, but there will never be another one. I never saw that before. In any store. They don't take care at all of the satisfaction of the customer. What a shame for a so high price label... Incredible.