DB jacket proportions - lapel width & button position

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Gotcha. So is it Naples, Milan or Brooks Brothers who is responsible for the skyward-reaching breast pocket?

- B

 

[maomao1980]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

- B

Buttresses?

 

[Slewfoot]

^ Notre Dame?

 

[maomao1980]

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

^ Notre Dame?
Maybe he meant that the Goths were to blame? Or simply helping to visualize the skyward reaching pockets.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Douglas

While I am willing to subscribe a bit to the so-called fallacy of thrift theory, saying Chan is a "financial dalliance" one "can not afford" and using it to justify dropping $5,000 on a suit (not to mention $500-1000 on a shirt) requires a staggering re-arrangement of reality. Financial dalliances indeed.
I don't think I'm asserting any fallacy of thrift. Consider this: a Chan suit is no cheap thing itself. It is only worthwhile and a "value" insofar as one's clothing preferences have already far exceeded what normal society deems useful or necessary. One such as myself is not trying to buy more suit or less suit, but the only sort of suit that would make me happy. Truth be told, I don't really need tailored clothing. It merely reflects a recreational passion. I think if most SF members were honest with themselves, they'd come to the same realization. I pay what I pay for Rubinacci because, in essence, I believe I am getting a deal. Is it expensive? Yes. But the personal benefit accrued is immensely greater in my estimation. Others may not think so, but they are free to pick their own luxuries, which I may or may not understand myself. When you need apples to make your pie, does it matter how much cheaper broccoli is?

 

[Slewfoot]

Originally Posted by maomao1980

Maybe he meant that the Goths were to blame?

Good point. I often have teenage Goth chicks pulling and stretching the breast pockets on my bespoke jackets. It comes with the territory.

 

[A Y]

Originally Posted by aj_del

As one member said in a recent thread about DBs any tailor can make a SB but making a good looking DB requires some skill. Right now I am inclined to agree with him.

Perhaps there was more context than what's given here, but I think you need skill to make a good-looking suit, no matter whether it is SB or DB. Some tailors may do one better than the other, but I don't think one is inherently more difficult. For example, some people think that A&S and A&S-expat DBs generally look better than their SBs.

--Andre

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

The

, though, doesn't hesitate getting less pricey things if he likes them. Examples include his MTM OCBDs and the OneShoe. whnay. would say that these downmarket forays drag down Foo's style, but I think that Matt has made his eccentric combinations serve him.
Thanks, man. Are you saying you've come to terms with unbuttoned button-down collars and feminized longwings?

 

[GuidoWongolini]

IMO - MahFaFun, Chan may be better for you than Rubi as Rubi does no justice to you.

I am willing to wager your job that if you had not mentioned that you use Rubi, there would be no Bukkake for you.

FWIW - the HKG tailors are not perfect, infact no tailors are perfect - we see some great 2D pictures on SF, but it is not till we see them in movement can we truly wager in.

FYI - what we have learnt here in HKG is that you need to develop your style over time & then still have a second set of eyes during the design & fitting. Tailors are not artists, they are trades people. We have all over time learn't to trust ones eye for proportion & balance.

Proportion & balance means what one uses will not always work for others - example, when SFer member X asks member Y "what are the measurements for your cuff or hem etc." 5cm cuff on me will look different on some one else.

BALANCE & PROPORTION​

Like the other night - Gazman asked me to come along to be the second set of eyes..


Rubi has not applied BALANCE & PROPORTION to you, he has just reduced your bank balance & increased his bank balance as well as his proportion..

No cuss bomb.. Just a cuss fart as this is a good threak & MahFaFun & Apropos have wagered some good points.

Just saying..

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

When you need apples to make your pie, does it matter how much cheaper broccoli is?

I love this Foo-ism.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Thanks, man. Are you saying you've come to terms with unbuttoned button-down collars and feminized longwings?

Since you are not proselytizing them and no one is copying you, yes. The placketless, two button close collar, BB OCBD and the LabialLongWing are safely contained within your own eccentricity.



- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Phat Guido

Rubi has not applied BALANCE & PROPORTION to you, he has just reduced your bank balance & increased his bank balance as well as his proportion..

No cuss bomb.. Just a cuss fart as this is a good threak & MahFaFun & Apropos have wagered some good points.

Just saying..

Well, I've always thought mafoofan looks dapper, so I can't agree with you.

I can see, nonetheless, many not liking his adopted look and preferring that he dress differently.


- B

 

[maomao1980]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I don't think I'm asserting any fallacy of thrift.

Consider this: a Chan suit is no cheap thing itself. It is only worthwhile and a "value" insofar as one's clothing preferences have already far exceeded what normal society deems useful or necessary. One such as myself is not trying to buy more suit or less suit, but the only sort of suit that would make me happy. Truth be told, I don't really need tailored clothing. It merely reflects a recreational passion. I think if most SF members were honest with themselves, they'd come to the same realization.

I pay what I pay for Rubinacci because, in essence, I believe I am getting a deal. Is it expensive? Yes. But the personal benefit accrued is immensely greater in my estimation. Others may not think so, but they are free to pick their own luxuries, which I may or may not understand myself.

When you need apples to make your pie, does it matter how much cheaper broccoli is?

I take it you are the type who would choose to become a basketball expert by paying the price for court-side tickets to see the Knicks rather than spending an afternoon playing pick-up basketball at your local playground.

 

[maomao1980]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Well, I've always thought mafoofan looks dapper, so I can't agree with you.

I can see, nonetheless, many not liking his adopted look and preferring that he dress differently.


- B

I once ran into a salesman in Tokyo at a high-end men's store who looked up to me. Mafoo reminds me of him, but with a bigger bank account and much better English.

 

[maomao1980]

Originally Posted by Phat Guido

Tailors are not artists, they are trades people.

I'd like to think my tailor is an artist, a craftsman, and a great friend who advises me in the ways of dressing well. Cuss you.