Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[LouieBailie]

Interesting... I'm considering a pair of black boots for this fall / winter and I'd narrowed it down to another pair of White's (I have a pair of brown CXL semi-dress) or the OSB Trench boots in black with dainite.

You'd go White's over OSB? I liked the shape of the OSB but I'd be interested in your take.

Do not over look the Wolverine Krause. They are very similar and you can now get them heavily discounted.

 

[linafelt]

So, I currently own both OSB Trenches in natural CXL and Whites SJs in black CXL. I briefly owned a pair of Krause boots as well, but returned them. Here's my take:

There certainly was some evidence on the now defunct OSB board of quality control issues, though I am not sure any worse than what we see with White's, and certainly not worse than Alden. There are some who think that OSB gets a lesser quality CXL than Whites or Viberg, but I don't know if that's the case. If you look at the Viberg board right now there is a pair of nearly brand new lightly worn black CXLs with serious undyed leather showing through. As many guys have said, this seems to be what you get with CXL, and if you are happy with it that's fine. Most of the OSB trenches I have seen are natural, and that leather certainly gets scuffed up and darkened quickly, but that's par for the course. Not sure how the black OSBs have held up, but there are probably pics around. I think they look great new though, I have to say. The main quality question with regard to OSB and CXL is whether they get a looser grain, less durable version, but I think perhaps the creasing we have seen is due to the boots being unlined in the shaft. And there is lots of creasing in other brands and other leathers -- eg, the Whites HH posted here a few months back.

Looks wise, I think the OSBs look great. A really nice shape. I recently sent a pair back to be resoled with Dainite, and they should be arriving soon. I can post pics when they do. It is definitely a lighter boot than any White's will be, even the SD, and at first I balked at that, but I have grown to like it.

As far as the Krause boots, like I said I only owned them for a week or so before deciding not to keep them. I like the looks, and the "Dublin" leather was cool (though not sure how it would wear). But it felt like a very light boot indeed, more like a shoe really, and that combined with the flat leather sole didn't do it for me. I like a heavier workboot feel. If you want a lighter boot that has traditional lines but looks a little more stylish, it's a good bet, especially on sale (the full price is a little outrageous).

 

[cathpah]

White's over OSB all day. Significantly fewer QC errors, better leather from what I've seen, much more customizable, and much more heavy duty, as well as having a nicer shape (subjective). They're also made by a serious workboot company whereas OSBs were outsourced to a company (that has since gone out of business and likely being bought up by OSB/owners-of-OSB) that specialized in orthotics shoes. There are a *ton* of posts about bad loose grain creasing on multiple OSB threads, yet those are more or less nonexistent in these parts. My 9" #8CXL BHs have zero loose grain (could be luck or could be longstanding relationship with Horween), which truly blew me away. Aside from what hides they are sent, it also comes down to clicking/selecting the areas from the hide to use and how much of each hide to use. I suspect that White's throws a lot more leather away because of higher standards. Additionally, I believe White's uses a thicker CXL than OSB does, which can add to the longevity of the boot.

They also have the shaped arches built into the midsole which add a whole heck of a lot of comfort on long days...to the extent that I'm selling some of my favorite Red Wings to replace them with similar White's.

Subjectively, I don't like the shape of the plain-toe OSB trench at all, but their cap toe does help it quite a bit. To the contrary, White's' cap toes can be less-than-great looking in their proportions...which is my one real complaint/hesitation with White's. The customization options are huge, as it's nice to choose shaft height, hardware color, sole, lining, midsole color, etc etc.

I own a few pairs of OSB handsewns, so I'm by no means an OSB hater, I just think White's makes a vastly superior boot.

 

[grendel]

Okay, that's a convincing argument for White's.

So for a black boot that crosses from jeans / casual to cords / Friday biz casual should I go black CXL or horse hide? With my brown CXL boots they get dinged up easily, but with a deer bone, Venetian Cream, and lots of brushing it's easy enough to bring them back to looking good. I don't know if the black holds up as well, or how the horsehide holds up.

 

[LouieBailie]

Look at the Red Wing Beckman Round, Ranger, & Blacksmith. AE also has a couple of new boots Odenwald.

 

[cathpah]

Okay, that's a convincing argument for White's.

So for a black boot that crosses from jeans / casual to cords / Friday biz casual should I go black CXL or horse hide? With my brown CXL boots they get dinged up easily, but with a deer bone, Venetian Cream, and lots of brushing it's easy enough to bring them back to looking good. I don't know if the black holds up as well, or how the horsehide holds up.

I would also look at Black Smooth (also known as Black Oiled). Thick and burly, but also looks really good.

 

[linafelt]



I would also look at Black Smooth (also known as Black Oiled).  Thick and burly, but also looks really good.

Or black dress..

Though as Louie says you may want to think about the black Beckman or Iron Ranger. If the iron Ranger fit my foot, it would be my main black boot. I think it looks great.

 

[Bingham]

So I ordered a pair of SJs from Bakers recently and after only a handful of wears, the pull tab on one of the boots has begun to tear. Not the seam but the actual leather (chromexcel).

Before I contact Bakers, I wanted to see if this has happened to anyone else and if I should expect them to fix it? In my opinion the pull tabs should be functional, no just aesthetic.

 

[hollowsleather]

They'll definitely fix it.

 

[climbinglife]

So I ordered a pair of SJs from Bakers recently and after only a handful of wears, the pull tab on one of the boots has begun to tear. Not the seam but the actual leather (chromexcel).

Before I contact Bakers, I wanted to see if this has happened to anyone else and if I should expect them to fix it? In my opinion the pull tabs should be functional, no just aesthetic.

This was the only flaw in the last pair I received...slight ripping, but mine was out of the box this way...just the right boot, left one was fine... used some crazy glue...

solved the problem, and you can't see where I applied it. has held up for 2 months...so far so good.

If its really bad, i'd try a local cobbler before going all the way back to Bakers.

 

[jrosenthal]

If you can live without them for a couple weeks I would send them back. For the cost of the boot, you should not have to incur any additional cost. Plus, it sends a message to white's (provided Baker's doesn't have to fix it-it wasn't their fault), that they need to investigate why this is happening. Perhaps Chromexcel is too soft of a material to endure serious pulling on those straps. In that case they should advise the pull straps be of a tougher leather if pull strap is requested.

James

 

[LouieBailie]

So I ordered a pair of SJs from Bakers recently and after only a handful of wears, the pull tab on one of the boots has begun to tear. Not the seam but the actual leather (chromexcel).

Before I contact Bakers, I wanted to see if this has happened to anyone else and if I should expect them to fix it? In my opinion the pull tabs should be functional, no just aesthetic.

Leather will stretch and tear if you pull on or put pressure on any single layer piece.

You are supposed to use your body weight to push your feet into the boots, if you try to pull the boot up and on prior to being completely broken in, with the single layer strap, it will 99% of the time tear. As you have now found out.

If leather is not double layered or stitch reinforced, one can not pull heavily on it for too long before it tears.

If those boots are lined they will be very hard to repair or they will just sew it back on above the tear and tell you the above.

 

[4characters]

I wanted to see if this has happened to anyone else and if I should expect them to fix it?

No, never happened to my CXL SD's. This should be a material defect assuming they didn’t come into contact with any sharp objects...
Absolutely, I would be certain that White’s would stand by the structural integrity of their product.

 

[Bingham]



Leather will stretch and tear if you pull on or put pressure on any single layer piece.

You are supposed to use your body weight to push your feet into the boots, if you try to pull the boot up and on prior to being completely broken in, with the single layer strap, it will 99% of the time tear. As you have now found out.

If leather is not double layered or stitch reinforced, one can not pull heavily on it for too long before it tears.

If those boots are lined they will be very hard to repair or they will just sew it back on above the tear and tell you the above.

While I did put some pressure on it, it shouldn't have been enough to tear. I was surprised by the ease at which it tore, and upon inspection of the other (non-torn) pull tab, I noticed a notch, if that is the correct term around the the same spot where the other tab tore. If this notch existed on the the damaged tab, it may very well have caused the tear.

The boots are lined- hopefully they replace the whole tab and don't simply stitch it up (which may be problematic given the placement of the tear). I emailed Baker's this AM, but don't know how regularly they check email so I may try calling this afternoon.

 

[linafelt]

While I did put some pressure on it, it shouldn't have been enough to tear. I was surprised by the ease at which it tore, and upon inspection of the other (non-torn) pull tab, I noticed a notch, if that is the correct term around the the same spot where the other tab tore. If this notch existed on the the damaged tab, it may very well have caused the tear.

The boots are lined- hopefully they replace the whole tab and don't simply stitch it up (which may be problematic given the placement of the tear). I emailed Baker's this AM, but don't know how regularly they check email so I may try calling this afternoon.

I always pull on my pull tabs. I figure that's why they are called pull tabs and not fake ornamental tabs. I would also be very surprised and bummed if they broke so easily. I hope it can be fixed quickly and without rebuilding the whole boot..