Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[ThreeLions]

The 38 swing last... Favorite of Ronald McDonald.

 

[hoppy_IPA]

@ThreeLions i hate using that reference bc I never like to speak ill of anyone’s build (we all love our own style) but you took the words right out of my brain haha!!!
speak’n of style - how are those sweet sweet tall boys doing? you know I love that pair! Humor us w/an update pic brother?

@TH3515 - you’re not kidding about a pic being worth a quick education. That is really eye opening. Ball width:Heel width ratio is a really fascinating data point & something I wish was more talked about/better understood. I think this info could really help folks select the best fitting last.

Now that the leaves are turning colors boot season is getting into full swing. It’s good to see more chatter around here & new folks getting their perfect build on. I got my 10th pair of White’s in last week myself and am ecstatic about it. If I could only keep one pair this would be it. I finally put together all the details I love into 1 boot and its my personal dream build. They’re just awesome

 

[miggyramone]

I think Iron Rangers and Beckmans look more like clown shoes than the 38 last. The curved heel helps balance out the 38 last fairly well in my opinion. To each their own.

 

[linafelt]

^^easy fellows..

 

[Legal Eagles]

Ball width:Heel width ratio is a really fascinating data point & something I wish was more talked about/better understood. I think this info could really help folks select the best fitting last.

Preach it brother... first find the best last for your foot shape then dial in the length and width... one last does not fit all... most maybe... but not all... last first, size second...

 

[discomute]

@ThreeLions i hate using that reference bc I never like to speak ill of anyone’s build (we all love our own style) but you took the words right out of my brain haha!!!
speak’n of style - how are those sweet sweet tall boys doing? you know I love that pair! Humor us w/an update pic brother?

@TH3515 - you’re not kidding about a pic being worth a quick education. That is really eye opening. Ball width:Heel width ratio is a really fascinating data point & something I wish was more talked about/better understood. I think this info could really help folks select the best fitting last.

Now that the leaves are turning colors boot season is getting into full swing. It’s good to see more chatter around here & new folks getting their perfect build on. I got my 10th pair of White’s in last week myself and am ecstatic about it. If I could only keep one pair this would be it. I finally put together all the details I love into 1 boot and its my personal dream build. They’re just awesome

Brown horsehide is easily the best leather to my eyes. I know with my circumstances (probably moving tropical in a couple of years) it wouldn't be ideal but daaaamn it looks pretty.

Does anyone have some whites (preference for BH in brown dress but any really) that have brown leather with black edge? I'd love to see a photo but I can't seem to search one

 

[John Frum]

Long time stalker, first time poster...

Thanks to all in this colossal thread. Your recommendations, photos, banter, etc. is more helpful than you may realize.

Brown Dress is a gateway drug. From there to black dress I've wound up with brown HH SD; IMHO anyone on the fence about this leather DO IT.

My sizing was a nightmare (sorry Kyle) and I'll post advice when I have pics to hopefully help another passerby in a similar situation. The sizing adventure involved money being thrown at the problem and resulted in some interesting builds.
-NW last 12EE lower on 12E upper, rebuilt (original build 12E NW last)
-55 last 11.5E upper on #38 12FF lower, rebuilt 3X to get there (original build 11.5E 55 last BH)
-4811 last 12 FFFF upper, #38 12 FF lower, rebuilt (original build 12 FFFF 4811 last BH style)

Saving for a pair in red dog smooth.

 

[Legal Eagles]

Long time stalker, first time poster...

Thanks to all in this colossal thread. Your recommendations, photos, banter, etc. is more helpful than you may realize.

Brown Dress is a gateway drug. From there to black dress I've wound up with brown HH SD; IMHO anyone on the fence about this leather DO IT.

My sizing was a nightmare (sorry Kyle) and I'll post advice when I have pics to hopefully help another passerby in a similar situation. The sizing adventure involved money being thrown at the problem and resulted in some interesting builds.
-NW last 12EE lower on 12E upper, rebuilt
-55 last 11.5E upper on #38 12FF lower, rebuilt 3X to get there
-4811 last 12 FFFF upper, #38 12 FF lower, rebuilt

Saving for a pair in red dog smooth.

Welcome to the forum...
Can you explain more about the "upper/lower" comments? Do you mean toe and heel like a combination last? When I hear "upper" I think about the part of the boot that wraps around the leg... I did not know lasts impacted that part of the boot...

 

[John Frum]

Upper = the quarter/shaft (I believe is.the term), the part stitched to the vamp and heel on work boots
Lower = The vamp and heel counter

 

[John Frum]

Sizing of.the quarter (the part with the eyelets/hooks) matters some IIRC, probably not last specific. Toe type definitely matters. Lace-to-toe quarter could be rebuilt +/- one width and 1/2 size, if memory serves.

The plain toe quarter I had rebuilt +3 widths.

None of these rebuilds were semi dress style, they have the heel counter.

 

[Netvine]

Sizing of.the quarter (the part with the eyelets/hooks) matters some IIRC, probably not last specific. Toe type definitely matters. Lace-to-toe quarter could be rebuilt +/- one width and 1/2 size, if memory serves.


The plain toe quarter I had rebuilt +3 widths.

None of these rebuilds were semi dress style, they have the heel counter.

Do you know if there are multiple width increase they replace the whole midsole? Can they reuse the vamp and stretch it? or if there is not enough material I guess they use a new vamp? I am considering doing something like this way down the line.

 

[Iotapa]

Still working on my MP idea... how do people find the commando sole? I'm not a bit fan of the leather half soul but if I do a 430 sole it would be an upcharge (definitely not doing dainite I hate it). Also how are people sizing in comparison to their brannock? I go. 5 down for almost all my boots and it has worked well so far, seems like the barrie last the MP uses is usually the same except for people with unusual sizing.

 

[miggyramone]

Long time stalker, first time poster...

Thanks to all in this colossal thread. Your recommendations, photos, banter, etc. is more helpful than you may realize.

Brown Dress is a gateway drug. From there to black dress I've wound up with brown HH SD; IMHO anyone on the fence about this leather DO IT.

My sizing was a nightmare (sorry Kyle) and I'll post advice when I have pics to hopefully help another passerby in a similar situation. The sizing adventure involved money being thrown at the problem and resulted in some interesting builds.
-NW last 12EE lower on 12E upper, rebuilt
-55 last 11.5E upper on #38 12FF lower, rebuilt 3X to get there
-4811 last 12 FFFF upper, #38 12 FF lower, rebuilt

Saving for a pair in red dog smooth.

So, in the case of the 55 last - you started off at a 11.5E and had them rebuilt to fit a 12 FF in the 38 swing last? And that took 3 times before the right size was found?

I don't feel so bad about my sizing hiccups now haha.

 

[John Frum]

Do you know if there are multiple width increase they replace the whole midsole? Can they reuse the vamp and stretch it? or if there is not enough material I guess they use a new vamp? I am considering doing something like this way down the line.

Not sure about that one. I would *guess* they could relast up a width.

 

[John Frum]

So, in the case of the 55 last - you started off at a 11.5E and had them rebuilt to fit a 12 FF in the 38 swing last? And that took 3 times before the right size was found?

I don't feel so bad about my sizing hiccups now haha.

White's sized me at a 11.5D, Bakers at 11.5E for the 55 last. Bakers was correct for the ball of the foot back to the heel.....toes, not so much. I have weird foot geometry. High arch/instep, Morton's toe, and unusually large great toe knuckle. I'll say this, my experience only, if you can say "I wear Danner 11E 650 last and it fits like a glove" as a benchmark to go along with the tracings, easy peasy. Try them on first if at all possible. I accurately sized my son's normal shaped feet in White's using info in this thread and what size he wore in a certain Chippewa last.

I started off in a 11.5E 55, then 11.5EE 55, then 12EE (IIRC) #38, then 12 FF #38. This was a pair of brown dress bounty hunters.

I wound up having to size toes first. the pinkie and toe beside it still touch but aren't squeezed.
My Brannock is 12.5E.
I call it "Braddock!" now.