Custom tailor advice

[mediocrecomposer]

I found a tailor in Philadelphia who makes a custom suit for $1300. He steers away from the term "bespoke" because he doesn't do a basted fitting. He says the reason he is able to do this is that he is both the fitter and the cutter, so when he does the first fitting he gets the information he needs at that stage. He said he *can* do a basted fitting, and some of his customers request that, but he doesn't think the garment comes out much differently and he suggested skipping that. What questions should I be asking him? He has a very good reputation in the area, and has been doing his own cutting for more than two decades, maybe three. What would SF people be asking and requesting?

 

[lordsuperb]

He’s most likely selling you a mtm suit. First time clients of a trust custom tailor should always have a basted fitting. Bespoke is somewhat of a guessing game. A tailor will observe your body type and take measurements and implement a cutting technique that works best for your frame. He won’t know how the suit will look until the basted fitting is on you. This is the part where he’s able to adjust the balance or pattern of your suit. Not something you want to skip.

Also there’s no margin at a $1300 price point.

 

[mediocrecomposer]

Ok, I'll ask how much he charges for the extra fitting.

 

[lordsuperb]

Ok, I'll ask how much he charges for the extra fitting.

Its made to measure.

 

[mediocrecomposer]

When I was in the shop I described what I want, which is somewhat unusual. I want to emulate the style of the classic Hollywood greats: Astaire, Grant, Gable, Cooper, etc. This requires rather higher rise and plenty of room in the trousers, high armscyes, and other elements we discussed. He has a M2M option, but when I described what I am looking for he said he would not be able do this M2M, it would have to be custom. Then he described his process, which does not usually involve a basted fitting. Is it possible that it is something in between M2M and bespoke?

 

[breakaway01]

All bespoke really means is that the pattern is made from scratch, not modified from a premade block pattern. It does sound like what you are getting is bespoke since it is unlikely that he can modify a block pattern for what you want. My understanding is that not all bespoke tailors use a basted fitting but rather go directly to the forward fitting. I think that given your somewhat unusual requirements, I personally would request a basted fitting, though ultimately it comes down to the skill of the cutter/tailor.