Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

[Zc94]

Does LP have any thing 4 ply or up? Something similar to Lockie’s Chirnside. Thanks.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

going out on a limb here and saying it is the one below

also, computational photography is evidently messing with fabric close-ups

http://[URL]https://www.mrporter.co...ans/oxton-cashmere-cardigan/43769801094597597

[/URL]

Thank you dear Sir!

Actually, what I want is our fellow @aristoi bcn to either verify or not the posted measurements of Mr Porter. This does not mean that I have reservations about the vendor's measurements as I have no experience with them whatsoever, I am simply putting my trust in our fellow, and I will be waiting for his own post when he will find some time.


Best,

Dimitris

 

[Bespoke DJP]

If I understand correctly, essentially, the yarn or fabric LP or Zegna uses for their own products are of the same, consistent quality of those supplied to other brands?

Dear Sir,

First of all, my anecdote was about fabrics and not yarns. A small deviation of this Thread's scope, but just to indicate that fabric supplied to tailors is by no means inferior - as you suggested - merely not 100% the same. If you are familiar to the EZ fabrics' lines you should know that Trofeo (in all its make-ups throughout the years) can be found in both channels, and the same holds true for all the Milmils and the Premium Cashmere.

Fabric developed for a third party, either one already having a mill (e.g. Kiton) or not (e.g. Tom Ford) is a routine business for them.

As I do not wish to de-rail this thread, I am concluding following the same line of our fellow @fabricateurialist, that should they accept a commission, they would deliver the best possible product according to the client's specs, based on their own vast resources and experience.


Best,

Dimitris

 

[aristoi bcn]

Is this a lighter shade of grey of the flannel? Being new to WL affairs, I have never seen this shade until now. Either a Black Friday insta-kop or not, it is great my friend, and at the same time different in many aspects from your Dalmo; enjoy it in health!

May we have measurements please?


Cheers,

Dimitris

Yes, this colour is lighter than any grey available as standard from Lockie. I don’t see it available in any of the usual websites. Here is a better picture I took this morning next to the Dalmo:

Measurements from Mr. Porter are pretty accurate although I did a comparison with mines as well.

Mr. Porter (size Small):

Mines:

Chest: 101-102 cms
Back length: 69-70 cms (likely Mr. Porter excludes collar from their measurements)
Sleeve: 47-48 cms (from below the armpit)

I don’t know how do they measure the sleeve length and the shoulders so I didn’t provide mines for these.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

My dear @aristoi bcn,

Thank you very much for your comprehensive response!

As I already wrote, I have seen (on-line) a number of WL offerings by various vendors by now, but it was the very first time that I saw the Pearl Grey, most probably a Mr Porter special commission. The two greys look great together, a ton-sur-ton combination that can be very well work likewise as well.

Mr Porter's sleeve length's measurement must have been done from a point below the collar in exactly the middle of the shoulder all way through to the sleeve cuff, exactly how a raglan garment is measured; in practice it is the sum of half-shoulder + sleeve.


Best,

Dimitris

 

[HotDilf]

Yesterday I popped into Burberry and saw a couple of Made in Scotland cashmere knits. My strong suspicion is that they are made by JoE who also make their check scarves.

Side note, Dior Homme currently offers cashmere coats made by LP, which retails for 30% to 40% less expensive than LP branded cashmere outerwear.

 

[StanleyWingtip]

Been following this thread for a while now and found this beautyat a thrift store not too long ago. No size or material content tags…Hoping you guys could help me determine whether or not it’s cashmere and who might have made it for bullock and Jones.




Holding it up to a can light about a foot away.

Let me know if more info is needed

 

[Nicks244]

Anyone know if Malo being sold on Saks Off 5th is genuine extra Malo or something lesser quality specifically made for an outlet?Another example

I’m new to cashmere and menswear in general besides the Reddit MFA basic templates.

 

[DorianGreen]

Wrong button colour.

Are william lockies buttons MOP?.

They are real mother of pearl, as one could expect from a serious producer. I can't understand why John Smedley uses plastic buttons.

 

[DorianGreen]

My dear @aristoi bcn,

Thank you very much for your comprehensive response!

As I already wrote, I have seen (on-line) a number of WL offerings by various vendors by now, but it was the very first time that I saw the Pearl Grey, most probably a Mr Porter special commission. The two greys look great together, a ton-sur-ton combination that can be very well work likewise as well.

Mr Porter's sleeve length's measurement must have been done from a point below the collar in exactly the middle of the shoulder all way through to the sleeve cuff, exactly how a raglan garment is measured; in practice it is the sum of half-shoulder + sleeve.


Best,

Dimitris

Yes, I also love the juxtaposition of the two tones of grey. It's defined as Earl Grey, not Pearl Grey (even though it would suit).

 

[DorianGreen]

Anyone know if Malo being sold on Saks Off 5th is genuine extra Malo or something lesser quality specifically made for an outlet?Another example

I’m new to cashmere and menswear in general besides the Reddit MFA basic templates.

Malo is always top quality. They should be old stocks, you can find a lot of them also on Yoox.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Yes, I also love the juxtaposition of the two tones of grey. It's defined as Earl Grey, not Pearl Grey (even though it would suit).

Thank you, my bad!

Actually, in my image data base I had already named it the correct way; we all need to be precise, nonetheless!

Shall we see & admire the orange waistcoat that you've just bought from Amidé?
(Please, with measurements as you always do for us!)


Best,

Dimitris

 

[DorianGreen]

Thank you, my bad!

Actually, in my image data base I had already named it the correct way; we all need to be precise, nonetheless!

Shall we see & admire the orange waistcoat that you've just bought from Amidé?
(Please, with measurements as you always do for us!)


Best,

Dimitris

Yes, here is my latest acquisition, the waistcoat in geelong from Amidé Hudelin.

It's a 40 size, 50 cm pit to pit. I would also wear a 42, but considered the style, I opted for a snug fit.

Initially I thought it could have been made by William Lockie, but not sure about it, as the knit is definitely different from the WL in Harvest Gold I posted recently, thinner and with a finer gauge.

Amidé declares:
"Our Super Geelong sleeveless cardigan is made for us in the Scottish Borders region, by a small family-run business that combines their vast experience with the best of fibres, to produce some of the finest knitwear on the market."

 

[DorianGreen]

I also bought these socks in wool blend (80/20% nylon).

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Yes, here is my latest acquisition, the waistcoat in geelong from Amidé Hudelin.

View attachment 1864329 View attachment 1864330 View attachment 1864331

Initially I thought it could have been made by William Lockie, but not sure about it, as the knit is definitely different from the WL in Harvest Gold I posted recently, thinner and with a finer gauge.

As it happens I have the answer my dear fellow; they are indeed made by William Lockie and the difference in fineness is present because it is supposed to be as such.

Let me elaborate a bit. After the discussion with our fellow @BMC, I followed the link that he posted which is found here below and I carefully read what it is written.

It’s all wool – The differences and similarities between Lambswool and Super Geelong. - Humes Outfitters

Differences and similarities between Lambswool and Super Geelong. Why we now call Lambswool "Geelong Lambswool". Why Geelong is always "Super Geelong".

www.ahume.co.uk

After that, I emailed A-Hume to seek more information on the matter and clarifications because the key phrase and I quote is: “William Lockie now call their classic lambswool sweaters “Geelong Lambswool”, and they confirmed that this is exactly the case.

In other words, in whichever WL garment the label states Geelong Lambswool (as your Harvest Gold waistcoat and our fellow's crewnecks), the garments are in reality exactly like the old 100% New Lambswool ones, only now re-labeled. They come from the Geelong breed all right, but they are not Super Geelong (first clip, 19.5μ, finer gauge), hence the difference that you've just experienced. Therefore, my past phrase addressed to @BMC that there is no difference between Geelong and Super Geelong, they're exactly the same, does not hold true.


Best,

Dimitris