Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

[Johnny80]

Also if you want to try the fit of Malo without spending that much money, you can try Velasca. And if you are ok with the fit you can return it and buy Malo. We saw a lot of velasca knits are almost identical with most of Malo in measurements

 

[bluespirit]

Just note that if you have broader shoulders compared to the rest of your build, you might have some fit issues with Gran Sasso (at least in my opinion).

Yes, I have the same experience. My size is 46 but my shoulders are broader than the average, and I do weight lifting. I like Gran Sasso for the good price/quality ratio, but I fits rather slim on me.

 

[bluespirit]

Thats Attolini/Fioroni goldden ticket. Their expertiese took and make the "bespoke" feel to RTW. At least they are the closet on my build/fit. Kiton has its yarns, while Attolini has its shape. Both are great for suits and knit (Kiton main artisan line not the fast fashion forward). Regarding Johnstons, they do have some more fitted garment if you go your size in their "unisex" collection. But if you want something close you can try Malo, Fedeli (some can be slim) and of course classic fit from Colombo. Colombo has classic fit and comfort fit.

Thanks. I also have a cashmere v-neck from Malo. Never tried Fedeli or Colombo.

Regarding Johnstons: I also like their comfortable fit, especially on thick knitwear and for layering. From my experience tough, they are more prone to loose shape than other brands if not closely taken care of and washed regularly. I have 2 cashmere crewnecks, 1 cashmere roll neck, and 2 merino long sleeve polos from them.

The only thing I should avoid at all cost is slim fit due to my morphology.

 

[Johnny80]

If you know that about your body then avoid fedeli and colombo
Of course you can size up with these two, but since you also care about your back length that will be a compromise. Colombo size 46 has a back lenght of 64cm, size 48 66cm in most of their crew/v neck/turtleneck garments

 

[fabricateurialist]

the way it looks up close...it is an 6ply or 8ply 5-7GG..so its quite cheap if that is the retail price and not discounted

Pretty standard markup, depending on how heavy it actually is

 

[bluespirit]

If you know that about your body then avoid fedeli and colombo

Italian brands tend to have a more fashion fit that looks great on the slim models they feature on their website, but not on muscular builds, unless you size up. I sometimes have to wear size 48 instead of 46 (Luigi Borelli, Tagliatore).

I like the classic, tailored fit that is generally associated with British manufacturers. I think Anderson & Sheppard knitwear also has this fit. I don't know who the manufacturer is (William Lockie?).

 

[DorianGreen]

not in mass production because in knitwear (garment less expose to friction) its cheaper for the maker to make 70% cashmere+30% silk and come close to an 100% worsted knit, almost same durability with the same bit of shines that silk and worsted wool/cashmere offer. Worsted yarns are smooth and look more lustrous thats why they keep the suits in worsted wool because the pants are more expose to friction.

Interesting. I would deduce then that the knitwear in merino wool showing that typical lustre is made of worsted yarns.

 

[HotDilf]

Italian brands tend to have a more fashion fit that looks great on the slim models they feature on their website, but not on muscular builds, unless you size up. I sometimes have to wear size 48 instead of 46 (Luigi Borelli, Tagliatore).

I like the classic, tailored fit that is generally associated with British manufacturers. I think Anderson & Sheppard knitwear also has this fit. I don't know who the manufacturer is (William Lockie?).

It's why I like vintage knits which often have roomy sleeve holes - very comfortable for those with muscular arms. They also tend to have a tight waistband which allow one to adjust the length, creating a flattering V silhouette that accentuates the upper body and lengthening proportions

 

[Johnny80]

Interesting. I would deduce then that the knitwear in merino wool showing that typical lustre is made of worsted yarns.

in general yes..thats the way merino wool yarn looks in general
And you know merino wool has the most diverse from all natural fibres...super s100 to super s280 (kiton shop had even expose an super s300) that looks even lustre than silk but are far far more fragile and from my point of view useless for the customer. Because on one way they are so comfortable that you want to wear it every day, but if you do you damage it

 

[DorianGreen]

in general yes..thats the way merino wool yarn looks in general
And you know merino wool has the most diverse from all natural fibres...super s100 to super s280 (kiton shop had even expose an super s300) that looks even lustre than most of worsted yarn or silk but are far far more fragile and from my point of view useless for the customer. Because on one way they are so comfortable that you want to wear it every day, but if you do you damage it

Merino wool can also look pretty matte though (think of Geelong and Super Geelong), therefore my deduction.

 

[Johnny80]

Italian brands tend to have a more fashion fit that looks great on the slim models they feature on their website, but not on muscular builds, unless you size up. I sometimes have to wear size 48 instead of 46 (Luigi Borelli, Tagliatore).

I like the classic, tailored fit that is generally associated with British manufacturers. I think Anderson & Sheppard knitwear also has this fit. I don't know who the manufacturer is (William Lockie?).

At this point if you want Made in Italy, you should stay with Fioroni/Attolini house or Luciano Barbera ( in general they like to do turtle necks) and avoid Barba Napoli and Isaia knits that ,like their shirt ,are build slimmer than slim

 

[Johnny80]

Merino wool can also look pretty matte though (think of Geelong and Super Geelong), therefore my deduction.

because they are treated to look as such and im not referring to blend materials. While an super s80 or super s120 can look so...everything from super s160 its almost impossible to be treated without damaging the yarn

 

[Johnny80]

Merino wool can also look pretty matte though (think of Geelong and Super Geelong), therefore my deduction.

And thats a good thing for you since i know you like also Geelong garments that feels like that raw pure cashmere and not baby cashmere

 

[bluespirit]

It's why I like vintage knits which often have roomy sleeve holes - very comfortable for those with muscular arms. They also tend to have a tight waistband which allow one to adjust the length, creating a flattering V silhouette that accentuates the upper body and lengthening proportions

Yes that is the perfect fit for me. Roomy at the chest, with a moderate slim effect that flatters the V silhouette, and a tight hem to able to place the bottom of the knit at the waist, where the high-waisted trouser rests. Apart from muscular builds, I think it would flatter most silhouettes.

Fioroni typically has that fit.

 

[bluespirit]

At this point if you want Made in Italy, you should stay with Fioroni/Attolini house or Luciano Barbera ( in general they like to do turtle necks) and avoid Barba Napoli and Isaia knits that ,like their shirt ,are build slimmer than slim

Yes I have an Isaia jacket. It's a moderate slim fit. Not bad, but I prefer more classic cuts from Canali and Zegna.