Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

[double00]

the fabric is obviously goofed at that spot at the collar i'd be curious to see the wrong side of that .

so far as the pocket bags its totally fine to tack them down i'd ply or braid a bit of yarn and hook the bag to corresponding spots where the body meets the rib trim , if you just use the one ply of yarn to tether it might break over time . ( it's a bit lazy but common imho to turn the pocket in-fabric , a better approach would be to use a turned ridge or even cast off the bottom it would keep it pretty flat without having to resort to tacking ) . i'm surprised the bags could go past the ribbing .

i'd def return , also might as well see if they will tack the bags on your replacement for you

 

[msimon]

Since this thread has evolved past the whole brand hierarchy thing, I'd like to ask for some help with the William Lockie cardigan I just received. The collar is twisted for some reason and won't sit right despite steaming and (lightly) pressing it flat with an iron. There's also what looks like a nick in the fabric (red arrow). Is there an easy fix to these defects or should I return it?
View attachment 1870551 View attachment 1870552

One last question: the pocket bags are only attached at the top and hang freely, which can be annoying as they sometimes hang lower than the front of the cardigan if you put something heavy in them like keys or coins. Is it a bad idea to stitch one corner of the pocket bags to the body of the cardigan as it's done on some models from other brands?
View attachment 1870561

That's a shame, I agree with everything that's been said already. The pockets are great hand warmers but wouldn't but anything heavy in them.

I like the colour. Ecru I believe.

 

[reidd]

Since this thread has evolved past the whole brand hierarchy thing, I'd like to ask for some help with the William Lockie cardigan I just received. The collar is twisted for some reason and won't sit right despite steaming and (lightly) pressing it flat with an iron. There's also what looks like a nick in the fabric (red arrow). Is there an easy fix to these defects or should I return it?
View attachment 1870551 View attachment 1870552

One last question: the pocket bags are only attached at the top and hang freely, which can be annoying as they sometimes hang lower than the front of the cardigan if you put something heavy in them like keys or coins. Is it a bad idea to stitch one corner of the pocket bags to the body of the cardigan as it's done on some models from other brands?
View attachment 1870561

Hard to tell about the twisting from the picture.. same about the "nick" as you describe it. With respect to the pocket bags, that would be really easy to tack down yourself or if you aren't confident with a needle and thread, your local alterations place would probably do it for you. Great looking sweater btw.

 

[Nebbiolo]

the fabric is obviously goofed at that spot at the collar i'd be curious to see the wrong side of that .

so far as the pocket bags its totally fine to tack them down i'd ply or braid a bit of yarn and hook the bag to corresponding spots where the body meets the rib trim , if you just use the one ply of yarn to tether it might break over time . ( it's a bit lazy but common imho to turn the pocket in-fabric , a better approach would be to use a turned ridge or even cast off the bottom it would keep it pretty flat without having to resort to tacking )

What exactly do you mean by turning the pocket in-fabric?
About the pockets, my concern is that using regular thread (I don't have wool yarn), even plied, could wear down the fabric over time. Do you think there's a risk?

That's a shame, I agree with everything that's been said already. The pockets are great hand warmers but wouldn't but anything heavy in them.

I like the colour. Ecru I believe.

It's the "Linen" or "Natural", a shade darker than the Ecru.

I wouldn't put anything heavier like a smartphone in them, but I think it should be able to hold a key or some pocket change. I wonder if the Scott & Charters model with its patch pockets fares better in that respect.

 

[double00]

View attachment 1870755

What exactly do you mean by turning the pocket in-fabric?
About the pockets, my concern is that using regular thread (I don't have wool yarn), even plied, could wear down the fabric over time. Do you think there's a risk?


It's the "Linen" or "Natural", a shade darker than the Ecru.

I wouldn't put anything heavier like a smartphone in them, but I think it should be able to hold a key or some pocket change. I wonder if the Scott & Charters model with its patch pockets fares better in that respect.

by in-fabric i just mean that the fabric creates the bottom of the bag on its own ...

when i've done set in pockets i incorporate a cast-off at the bottom and seam the sides . so everything wants to flatten and so i don't tack down . it's bombproof so far as holding anything reliably .

so far as using regular thread on a wool knit i've done this for buttons but i also feel it is the very weakest part of the project at that spot as a result . i haven't had any issue tho i would prefer to use a softer yarn .

another idea might be to attach a simple woven lining which you see on a lot of vintage cardigans , often the knit gives way to a sewn in woven bag that finishes the pocket . the nice thing about woven is it won't stretch with stuff in it .

honestly the twist in the shawl really bothers me , this is brioche i think ? it shouldn't rack like that , i've used that pattern to neutralize a pretty biased single it should be fluffy and inert .

 

[happydayz1]

Not a sweatshirt, but picked up Private White VC cashmere gloves and a Johnstons of Elgin cashmere scarf.

To be honest, I think the Private White VC gloves are just the standard JOE gloves available on their website but with a premium slapped on by Private White 😅

Regardless, pretty happy with both.

 

[DorianGreen]

Not a sweatshirt, but picked up Private White VC cashmere gloves and a Johnstons of Elgin cashmere scarf.

To be honest, I think the Private White VC gloves are just the standard JOE gloves available on their website but with a premium slapped on by Private White 😅

Regardless, pretty happy with both.

View attachment 1870885

I have two submariner jumpers from Private White that were made by Johnstons, so very likely you're right in your supposition.

 

[msimon]

Not a sweatshirt, but picked up Private White VC cashmere gloves and a Johnstons of Elgin cashmere scarf.

To be honest, I think the Private White VC gloves are just the standard JOE gloves available on their website but with a premium slapped on by Private White 😅

Regardless, pretty happy with both.

View attachment 1870885

That's why I am going with Ahume, there scarves and gloves are clearly JoE but cheaper.

 

[Camerashy]

That's why I am going with Ahume, there scarves and gloves are clearly JoE but cheaper.

The PWVC scarves appear to be more chunky than the AHume ones which I suppose is reflected in the RRP price difference

 

[Johnny80]

my last purchases are in..after months of waiting, more photos to come when im home

 

[Johnny80]

Not a sweatshirt, but picked up Private White VC cashmere gloves and a Johnstons of Elgin cashmere scarf.

To be honest, I think the Private White VC gloves are just the standard JOE gloves available on their website but with a premium slapped on by Private White 😅

Regardless, pretty happy with both.

View attachment 1870885

Nice, i guess the scarf colour is the darker colour and not that light blue from the first photo

 

[Johnny80]

Since this thread has evolved past the whole brand hierarchy thing, I'd like to ask for some help with the William Lockie cardigan I just received. The collar is twisted for some reason and won't sit right despite steaming and (lightly) pressing it flat with an iron. There's also what looks like a nick in the fabric (red arrow). Is there an easy fix to these defects or should I return it?
View attachment 1870551 View attachment 1870552

One last question: the pocket bags are only attached at the top and hang freely, which can be annoying as they sometimes hang lower than the front of the cardigan if you put something heavy in them like keys or coins. Is it a bad idea to stitch one corner of the pocket bags to the body of the cardigan as it's done on some models from other brands?
View attachment 1870561

if you have a very professional tailor you can try with him...or, chat with WL themselves if they accept to send them and fix that for free. The garment is not damaged but it needs some work from the top of the knit to the bottom of it , the whole thread in question and the 2 side by side threads also

 

[DorianGreen]

my last purchases are in..after months of waiting, more photos to come when im home View attachment 1870904 View attachment 1870906

Nice pieces, but what are those spots down on the left (of the jumpers)? A brand?

 

[Johnny80]

Nice pieces, but what are those spots down on the left (of the jumpers)? A brand?

Yes, its Colombo imprinted on a horn piece, you can remove them anytime if you like
On zippers also you can opt for metallic zipper or horn, you can receive both and chose what you like
WL also, if you buy from them directly you can also ask them this without going "bespoke", horn or metal zipp, leather or horn buttons

 

[anaxagoras]

I’m down to my last five pieces of authentic (Scottish) Ballantyne. One is still in storage as it is an exact duplicate of the pictured ecru polo.

I assume there is no consensus but please correct me if there is: Who is currently producing cashmere that is closest to the Ballantyne quality?

After many years of comparing offerings in the West End my conclusion was: John Laing, which is now owned by Chanel, (via Barrie). They have a limited amount of stuff available on their own website (JL not Chanel), and they do pretty much all of Turnbull and Asser’s cashmere.
My wife is fond of J of Elgin and N. Peal, particularly their Kensington shop around the corner from Harrod’s. But that is because it is more fashion forward, not because of the knit quality. Peal in fact does most of it in Asia now.
(We also buy quite a bit of vintage Ballentyne on eBay, but mainly the intarsia. T&A is my go to for new men’s traditional at this point.)