Best M2M for drape cut/SR style

[mediocrecomposer]

I want a M2M suit for $1000 or less in the drape cut style. I do not want slim fit or anything of the like. I live in Philadelphia and can travel to NYC or DC, but DC is easier. I am a slightly bigger fella, and like a lot of room in the trousers, and a rather high rise. I have a drape style sport coat, and I like it because I want the space for movement. I need a suit I have really live and work in. Any suggestions?

 

[classicalthunde]

I want a M2M suit for $1000 or less in the drape cut style. I do not want slim fit or anything of the like. I live in Philadelphia and can travel to NYC or DC, but DC is easier. I am a slightly bigger fella, and like a lot of room in the trousers, and a rather high rise. I have a drape style sport coat, and I like it because I want the space for movement. I need a suit I have really live and work in. Any suggestions?

I've done a fair amount of research on MTM in Philly and NYC and I don't think there are any good places that do a drape cut at sub $1K. Depending on how big you are you might want to try Boyds off the rack, the stuff I tried on was def "slim' cut and would be in your price range...You could also try Brooks Brothers Madison cut (sack suit style).

Specific MTM options would be:
- Steed (travels to NYC) @ around 1000-1500 GBP - they specialize in drape cut
- Benson and Clegg (travels to NYC/Philly) @ around 1000-1500 GBP - trad Savile Row cut
- Kent Wang in NYC @ $1K USD - while not SR or drape specific, does do a more British-style cut
- Mr. Ned in NYC at about $1K seems to be quasi-bespoke at a cheap rate

 

[mediocrecomposer]

I've done a fair amount of research on MTM in Philly and NYC and I don't think there are any good places that do a drape cut at sub $1K. Depending on how big you are you might want to try Boyds off the rack, the stuff I tried on was def "slim' cut and would be in your price range...You could also try Brooks Brothers Madison cut (sack suit style).

Specific MTM options would be:
- Steed (travels to NYC) @ around 1000-1500 GBP - they specialize in drape cut
- Benson and Clegg (travels to NYC/Philly) @ around 1000-1500 GBP - trad Savile Row cut
- Kent Wang in NYC @ $1K USD - while not SR or drape specific, does do a more British-style cut
- Mr. Ned in NYC at about $1K seems to be quasi-bespoke at a cheap rate

Hey, since you're from Philly let me ask- have you been to Distante's on Sansom? Or Ernesto's?

 

[Mr. Six]

Steed seems like the obvious answer. The default trouser pattern has a high rise and fuller cut. They travel to both NYC and DC.

 

[classicalthunde]

Hey, since you're from Philly let me ask- have you been to Distante's on Sansom? Or Ernesto's?

Unfortunately, I haven't...with the recent increase in MTM shops and the un-returnable nature of a MTM suit, I've decided to only go with places that have a good recommendation/presence on SF so I can at least semi-vet their work aside from pictures. In my opinion, finding a MTM shop that can nail the fit/translate the proper fit to the maker's system is the most important part...a lot of MTM shops will just have a sales person with relatively little experience take measurements and enter it into the system w/o any adjustments for how the measurements are impacted relative to your shape.

That being said D&B in Newtown Square is where Jay Wright gets his suits, they look like a pretty legit outfit and I believe have been mentioned before as some of the better tailors around the philly-area. I'm sure they will cost north of $1K though...

 

[GBR]

What does "rather high rise" mean in relation to your navel, that will certainly determine whether any RTW would work.

 

[mediocrecomposer]

What does "rather high rise" mean in relation to your navel, that will certainly determine whether any RTW would work.

I like a 14" rise, which is practically unheard of today, but IMO was one of the keys to the elegance of classic menswear. It's hard to find anything higher than 11 or 12" today because so many clothiers are gearing their models to young skinny guys who do not like pleats or high rises - what about the rest of us! For years I have had a job where it has not hurt me to wear trousers and an odd jacket, so I have been able to find all that I need on eBay in one-off pairs of trousers and sport coats, but suits are especially hard to find this way, especially if you have unusual specifications like I'm describing, but I am interviewing for jobs where suits are required, so I think I need to go M2M/custom.

 

[mediocrecomposer]

I'm pretty sure that Steed is going to be outside of my price range. What is the low end there?

I just did a consultation at Enzo's Custom. I was afraid that by "custom" they meant something like, "we have our style and you can't change it much but you can do peaked lapel or notch, and we have these fancy-looking linings..." but the impression I got in the consultation was that they really are making a proper custom suit. They take 30 measurements and make observations on your posture. Their starting price is $565 and they make a fully canvassed jacket and functional buttons for an extra $200. Any advice on what to ask?

 

[Mr. Six]

I don't have a current price list, but Steed's half-canvass MTM is around £1,000, full canvass £1,250.

 

[classicalthunde]

I don't have a current price list, but Steed's half-canvass MTM is around £1,000, full canvass £1,250.

As of last spring I think I was quoted about the same, unfortunately it was still out of my price range...one of the nice things is that there is a low price and a high price for both half and full canvas, so unlike a lot of other places it doesnt seem like they'd nickel and dime you for moving up from the base fabrics, I'd have to imagine you would have a very healthy selection at both price points

 

[Mr. Six]

Yes, Steed has said that they can do MTM with any fabric that they have access to (and CMT). There has never been any price difference based on fabric or other details for me. Until recently, that is, when a fabric I asked about was so expensive for them that they told me that they would have to include a surcharge.

 

[comrade]

"keys to the elegance of classic menswear"
You'll never get decent MTM in the US for $1000.
I paid $600 for MTM in 1987 from Chipp, now called
Winston Tailors, in New York. I know nothing about
Enzo's except that one could easily pay $700-$1000
for a new suit at a significant discount from say Isaia,
or Belvest on e Bay. That's more than Enzo's and it's RTW.

 

[classicalthunde]

I'm pretty sure that Steed is going to be outside of my price range. What is the low end there?

I just did a consultation at Enzo's Custom. I was afraid that by "custom" they meant something like, "we have our style and you can't change it much but you can do peaked lapel or notch, and we have these fancy-looking linings..." but the impression I got in the consultation was that they really are making a proper custom suit. They take 30 measurements and make observations on your posture. Their starting price is $565 and they make a fully canvassed jacket and functional buttons for an extra $200. Any advice on what to ask?

I did a suit at Enzo's and was less than satisfied, but i'm sure like 75% of the places it was down to the person I worked with wasn't good at translating measurements>production>overall fit (I believe she is not there anymore).

But I will say this, Enzo's is heavily tiered pricing, that $565 price point contains only the most basic navy blues and charcoals, I wanted a basic mid-grey and had to jump to the $700 price range plus the extra for full canvas. If you want a name brand mill at all (VBC, H&S, etc) you're likely looking at $1K before the up charges. Also, the fit on my suit was worse than the OTR SuitSupply or Brooks Brothers suits, I'm a big guy with a significant drop and it just looked like a box on me w/ a significant lapel chest pop, had to be tailored 2x after the "final" fitting. Lastly, they wouldn't share my measurements with me, which i thought was odd as it would help me with a number of different tailoring items or ebay purchases.

After that initial suit I've only used them for basic dress pants for work which aren't bad at $175 w/ no alterations needed. I now work with Aaron for my pants and he seems like a good guy and knowledgeable, but based on the initial suit experience and the upcharge for the type of items i'm looking for I wont get a suit again

 

[useless_username]

Can a true drape cut even be executed in MTM/RTW? To me it seems like one of those things that these days can only be found in bespoke, at Savile Row prices.

I wonder if OP is complicating things but looking for the elusive drape cut, while what he really wants is a conservative suit that's made to accommodate a bulky upper body? Something like that should be available from most quality MTM brands.

It wasn't clear from OP's message if his bulkiness is a result of athletic pursuits or of having a healthy appetite. Depending on the answer, the tailoring solution might differ dramatically. Buying RTW suit separates works well for some men.

 

[jdp234]

At least as it fits my body, Kent Wang mtm has drape in the chest (a fact noted and commented on by Edwin DeBoise when I went for Steed measurements wearing that suit). And very well made in general.