Bespoke Tuxedo and Eveningwear

[voxsartoria]

..

 

[apropos]

Vox, out of curiosity - why?

They look the worst sort of chintzy, like something you would find on a Chinese brocade cushion cover.

 

[mrbig]

I'm in Australia; and I don't think I'll be visiting Hong Kong very soon but there's a chance.

Most likely it's going to be made up by Iris Tailor in Singapore as I can go there basically for the weekend if I need to. Of course, I will be overseeing the production very closely with lots of handwork etc.

My old set is RLPL that I won off fleabay... which now has a battle scar and doesn't fit shoulders anymore. I would keep using it if I could but its irreparably damaged and I'm a fit perfectionist.

As for buttons; I'll be going for buttons covered in the same material as whichever I decide on for the facings.

 

[voxsartoria]

..

 

[Mac]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Well, if you know about them (and now you do), they are a token of the era of greatest elegance in evening dress.


- B

Please elaborate.

 

[ThinkDerm]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

AFAIK, they have not been made since the 1930s with smooth silk bound edges. So, the checkerboards today go round the edge to the back, and even those aren't seen often:

Note that the ones on the left are shanked like most covered buttons, but the ones on the right are done to accept a stitched shank...good for floating buttons on the sleeve or for thin fabrics on the dinner jacket.


- B
Vox - the best bet is to find a vintage tuxedo and harvest the buttons.

 

[mrbig]

As of this morning; yet another dilemma has come to mind: Peak vs Shawl.

I'd go my own design for the Peak and probably something Tom Ford-esque for a Shawl, although without a boutonniere hole. My design is a bit 70's Ralph Lauren; but updated to look a little more contemporary and something which I don't think will date in the next 10-15 years.

 

[apropos]

That's easy - peak for the simple reason that so much more goes into designing a nice looking shawl collar, so it's much more difficult to execute successfully.

That said, have a look at the shawls your tailor has done, and then proceed from there.

 

[mrbig]

Anyone got any examples I should look at? The thing that gets me is everyone going with slim lapels; even my old RLPL set had fairly slim ones. I'm after ones that are proportional or slightly larger considering my 19" shoudlers and a 40" chest.