Bespoke Cloth Choices

[David Reeves]

Zegna trofeo and traveler are good. I think the Zegna traveller is the best "travelling cloth" I have seen. Loro Piana does score well in cashmere and Loro piana "wave" is very good.

 

[KayGee21]



What is he charging for a bespoke suit? Have you seen finished garments that he has done? What is his house style, and does it match your taste?

Sorry, meant to mention that he charges $1,250. I have seen a finished product, and it looks great. Not sure what what you mean when you refer to house style, but I've liked the look of the couple examples I've seen of his work.

 

[TheFoo]



Great response. I really appreciate the feedback. It's probably obvious that I don't really know what I'm doing here, but I've always heard bespoke is the way to go. I'm new to St Louis and have heard repeatedly that he's the best. Any thoughts on whether it would be better to just get a new suit off the rack (ie E. Zegna, Isaia, Canali) and have him tailor it vs. going the bespoke route with his cloth choices. I have had a suit tailored by him, and know he does good work.
Thanks again.

Bespoke is not always the way to go, in my opinion. To navigate the process well, it's best to develop a competent understanding of fit and quality first. That takes a lot of time and effort, which may not be worth your while.

Is your tailor an alterations tailor? As a rule of thumb, I would never engage a tailor to make me anything unless he was chiefly in the business of bespoke work. Many alterations tailors will offer to make you a suit, but as it is not there forte and they lack experience, the results are not likely to be good.

Zegna trofeo and traveler are good. I think the Zegna traveller is the best "travelling cloth" I have seen. Loro Piana does score well in cashmere and Loro piana "wave" is very good.

Never tried Zegna cloth, but I will never, ever try Loro Piana wool suiting again. Cashmere is a different story, but I don't see myself ordering anything in cashmere anytime soon.

 

[TheFoo]



Sorry, meant to mention that he charges $1,250. I have seen a finished product, and it looks great. Not sure what what you mean when you refer to house style, but I've liked the look of the couple examples I've seen of his work.

That sounds like a very low price. Are you sure he isn't selling made-to-measure suits that he simply measures and fits for?

 

[imatlas]

Sorry, meant to mention that he charges $1,250. I have seen a finished product, and it looks great. Not sure what what you mean when you refer to house style, but I've liked the look of the couple examples I've seen of his work.

That sounds like a very low price. Are you sure he isn't selling made-to-measure suits that he simply measures and fits for?

Seems like that would explain the 'Burberry' cloth, wouldn't it? Or does Burberry sell suitings?

 

[David Reeves]



Bespoke is not always the way to go, in my opinion. To navigate the process well, it's best to develop a competent understanding of fit and quality first. That takes a lot of time and effort, which may not be worth your while.
Is your tailor an alterations tailor? As a rule of thumb, I would never engage a tailor to make me anything unless he was chiefly in the business of bespoke work. Many alterations tailors will offer to make you a suit, but as it is not there forte and they lack experience, the results are not likely to be good.
Never tried Zegna cloth, but I will never, ever try Loro Piana wool suiting again. Cashmere is a different story, but I don't see myself ordering anything in cashmere anytime soon.

Wave is wool and silk. The silk gives the rather fine cloth good memory retention and strength which is a good addition because Loro Piana wools can be rather flimsy in lighter weights.

You didn't get something made up in four seasons did you?

 

[unbelragazzo]

I agree with everything :foo: said regarding bespoke in general and this guy in particular. It's likely you'd be better off going to BB or doing BB MTM if you want to go for that. At least go there and try things on, see how they look and feel. If something's not right and you're able to identify what it is, then you can go out looking for that in another rtw brand, or start considering bespoke.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Regarding Italian mills, what's the general opinion of vbc?

 

[edmorel]



Regarding Italian mills, what's the general opinion of vbc?

they make some stuff for Drapers which I like a lot, all their other stuff I've seen is relatively entry level, their cashmere in particular is pretty bad.

 

[Despos]



they make some stuff for Drapers which I like a lot, all their other stuff I've seen is relatively entry level, their cashmere in particular is pretty bad.

I would really like to know the facts about the 2 brands. My conclusion from what I've been told is they are the same company but branded as VBC or Drapers for different distribution channels. Not sure how factual this is.
I have received cloth from Drapers and VBC is the name woven into the selvedge. Have seen sample books from both that had the identical colors and patterns, even presented in the same sequence. May be that the colors and patterns are identical but different quality of yarns are used, but I see no evidence of that. Have not seen a discernible difference between VBC or Drapers.
Have used VBC for years and you could say it is entry level but I would add it is a very reliable cloth that performs quite well. It has been very consistent over the years. I make it up and wear VBC myself. The times I buy Drapers is for unique colors and patterns not shown in the VBC line. Have used the VBC 110's, 130's and Greenhills 160's. The 130's and 160's tailor up very well and have great body. Have never seen cashmere from VBC so cannot comment. Wool prices have risen considerably and VBC is a great value.

Cannot remember the last time I have used a suiting from Loro Piana but their sport coating cloth, 90% wool 10% cashmere is a favorite. Beautiful cloth, colors and patterns. If you want a flannel that is luxe, their 90 wool, 10% cashmere flannel is fantastic. Very soft hand but holds a crease remarkably well. I have issues with their 100% cashmere.
They also have a great 100% wool corduroy. Very expensive but worth it.

Zegna is very good too. Patterns, colors, cloth types are more modern but the quality is there.

 

[edmorel]



I would really like to know the facts about the 2 brands. My conclusion from what I've been told is they are the same company but branded as VBC or Drapers for different distribution channels. Not sure how factual this is.
I have received cloth from Drapers and VBC is the name woven into the selvedge. Have seen sample books from both that had the identical colors and patterns, even presented in the same sequence. May be that the colors and patterns are identical but different quality of yarns are used, but I see no evidence of that. Have not seen a discernible difference between VBC or Drapers.
Have used VBC for years and you could say it is entry level but I would add it is a very reliable cloth that performs quite well. It has been very consistent over the years. I make it up and wear VBC myself. The times I buy Drapers is for unique colors and patterns not shown in the VBC line. Have used the VBC 110's, 130's and Greenhills 160's. The 130's and 160's tailor up very well and have great body. Have never seen cashmere from VBC so cannot comment. Wool prices have risen considerably and VBC is a great value.
Cannot remember the last time I have used a suiting from Loro Piana but their sport coating cloth, 90% wool 10% cashmere is a favorite. Beautiful cloth, colors and patterns. If you want a flannel that is luxe, their 90 wool, 10% cashmere flannel is fantastic. Very soft hand but holds a crease remarkably well. I have issues with their 100% cashmere.
They also have a great 100% wool corduroy. Very expensive but worth it.
Zegna is very good too. Patterns, colors, cloth types are more modern but the quality is there.

thats good to know. I thought drapers was milled by different people as I only occasionally see Drapers with VBC selvage, but I also mostly see VBC on rolls, not in books so maybe I am seeing "drapers" with VBC selvage. I forgot about their Greenhill, I have heard from others that it is very good. I have some of the LP 90/10 made up, it is nice but I prefer Ariston/H&S for patterned sportcoat type stuff. LP also does a nice lightweight solaro if you are into that type of stuff. I have a lot of Zegna cottons, including a 90/10 cotton cashmere cord which is ridiculously nice and my preference over the English stuff

 

[T4phage]



I would really like to know the facts about the 2 brands. My conclusion from what I've been told is they are the same company but branded as VBC or Drapers for different distribution channels. Not sure how factual this is.
I have received cloth from Drapers and VBC is the name woven into the selvedge. Have seen sample books from both that had the identical colors and patterns, even presented in the same sequence. May be that the colors and patterns are identical but different quality of yarns are used, but I see no evidence of that. Have not seen a discernible difference between VBC or Drapers.
Have used VBC for years and you could say it is entry level but I would add it is a very reliable cloth that performs quite well. It has been very consistent over the years. I make it up and wear VBC myself. The times I buy Drapers is for unique colors and patterns not shown in the VBC line. Have used the VBC 110's, 130's and Greenhills 160's. The 130's and 160's tailor up very well and have great body. Have never seen cashmere from VBC so cannot comment. Wool prices have risen considerably and VBC is a great value.
Cannot remember the last time I have used a suiting from Loro Piana but their sport coating cloth, 90% wool 10% cashmere is a favorite. Beautiful cloth, colors and patterns. If you want a flannel that is luxe, their 90 wool, 10% cashmere flannel is fantastic. Very soft hand but holds a crease remarkably well. I have issues with their 100% cashmere.
They also have a great 100% wool corduroy. Very expensive but worth it.
Zegna is very good too. Patterns, colors, cloth types are more modern but the quality is there.

drapers and vbc
are separate companies
run by different families
one a mill
the other commissions

and there are fabrics
with the selvedge
"loro piana for drapers"
which appear in both's
books

 

[buzzron]

What is he charging for a bespoke suit? Have you seen finished garments that he has done? What is his house style, and does it match your taste

Agree, these questions are necessary.

 

[gopherblue]



I got stuck on the part about St. Louis.
I find the city's gigantic gate intimidating.

It's not a gate--it is a giant clothes hanger buried in the ground by Paul Bunyan.

 

[gopherblue]

And now in all seriousness...are you wedded to bespoke? Would you consider MTM? If so, and you find yourself passing through Chicago, then Oxxford Clothiers would be worth a look. You've gotten some good advice so far--I'd want a broader fabric selection and a solid track record for the tailor as a bespoke tailor.