Bangkok tailors

[jweiht]

Hi again,

Thanks for the detailed report, it's quite interesting. There's a few point, however, where I disagree with you. To me it seems like the back of the jacket doesn't sit nearly close enough to your neck. On a quality bespoke garment it definitely should. It might also have something to do with the collar of the shirt, which I reckon is both to low and to short, but obviously this is a matter of preference. I also find it funny that you mention the lapel roll of the jacket when there is absolutely none, and there never will be on a fused garment (yet another reason I always opt for floating canvas). Moreover, the buttonholes are definitely not sewn by hand (or if they indeed are, they're the ugliest I have ever seen, but I think it's very safe to say they're not done by hand). I know this probably sounds very negative, but it's actually not; I think you have a very nice jacket that definitely fits better than much RTW and probably around the same price, and together with the experience of designing the jacket yourself, that's a win. But I think there's only real value in thai tailoring if you find one good tailor and develop a relation ship over time and keep adjusting your pattern. For you this could be Tanika, since your first commission has proved to be much above the Thai standard. But again, I think it's an illusion to think that Thai tailors will sew anything close to Western standards (which I absolutely don't claim that you have claimed, btw).

But keep up the reporting, it's interesting to see!

Cheers,
SKM

I think it's unfair to say that there aren't great tailors in Thailand, as if all western tailors are exceptional. Sure, there are the "famous" tailors that appeal to the internet savy tourist, and their work may not be as good. But hey, the price is pretty much cheaper than the west, and there are MANY crappy tailors in the west as well that cost 2-3 times more.

Of course it would be crazy to compare any tailor to Saville row.

But I have to agree with you that it takes a while to get a suit right with any tailor.. The relationship needs time to build

 

[S K M]

I think it's unfair to say that there aren't great tailors in Thailand, as if all western tailors are exceptional. Sure, there are the "famous" tailors that appeal to the internet savy tourist, and their work may not be as good. But hey, the price is pretty much cheaper than the west, and there are MANY crappy tailors in the west as well that cost 2-3 times more.

Of course it would be crazy to compare any tailor to Saville row.

But I have to agree with you that it takes a while to get a suit right with any tailor.. The relationship needs time to build

Just to be clear, I definitely didn't say that all western tailors are great - there are people claiming to be tailors all around the world. What iI did say, though, is that the best Thai tailors don't compare to the best Western. Wether you think that great tailors exist in Thailand is definitely a matter of by which standards you judge. In other words, what I'm saying is that you will never ever find a tailor in Thailand who's work can be remotely compared to that of a skilled western tailor (but at the same time you will find many western tailors doing just as crappy a job as their Thai counterparts). All that said; I think Asian tailoring is a great place to start out the venture into bespoke, since you'll learn from your mistakes, learn what suits you and what to ask for, which will make your first commission a lot more successful, should you one day choose to go all the way and commission something from a western tailor.

 

[Halifax]

To me it seems like the back of the jacket doesn't sit nearly close enough to your neck. On a quality bespoke garment it definitely should. It might also have something to do with the collar of the shirt, which I reckon is both to low and to short, but obviously this is a matter of preference.

I agree that there is a slight collar gap in the photos that I have taken. However, I don't think this issue is an explicit result of the tailoring. My posture may have been slightly off from my neutral position. As you say, the shirt (which is not Tanika's) collar is a little short to give that 'bespoken' look. Most likely, I had not quite pulled the jacket completely forward, over my shoulders (even a 1/4" would be sufficient to cause the observed collar gap), as I may have been focusing too much on the camera (oh vanity). Here are some photos that may help, but you might not be convinced unless you actually see me in it.

I also find it funny that you mention the lapel roll of the jacket when there is absolutely none, and there never will be on a fused garment (yet another reason I always opt for floating canvas).

Again, you are correct. It would be foolish to expect that an unstructured jacket has the same beautiful lapel roll, that I liken to 'breaking surf', on a well made canvas structured suit. However, to my eye I see a slight hollow at the base of the lapel. At the very least, it hasn't been pressed flat like on some of the Thai tailor made jackets that I've seen. Here are some photos:






There is no fusing in the jacket.

Moreover, the buttonholes are definitely not sewn by hand (or if they indeed are, they're the ugliest I have ever seen, but I think it's very safe to say they're not done by hand).

I do not have the wisdom to solely deny this claim. However, I didn't just wildly speculate that the buttonholes were hand made. I spoke with several people more knowledgeable than myself about tailor made clothing and who's opinions I value. These people were confident that the button holes were hand made. Perhaps I need to take some more photos of the wrong side to help clarify this.

What specifically make you think the buttonholes are not hand made? Is it the roughness of the silk twist? I'd love for you to elaborate on this.

I think there's only real value in thai tailoring if you find one good tailor and develop a relation ship over time and keep adjusting your pattern. For you this could be Tanika, since your first commission has proved to be much above the Thai standard.

I absolutely agree. I guess this is one of the reasons why my review is rather glowing of Tanika. The results exceeded my expectation given that this was my first visit, I had never designed clothing directly with a tailor before and I only gave them 10 days. The fact that Tani (not Tanika the company) is relatively new to the tailor scene (I assumed, based upon the date she was awarded the qualification), I feel like there is a lot of potential as she matures her skills and I mature my sense of style. I look forward to cultivating this relationship.


I would encourage you to take some close up photos and write an exposition of your clothes from Narin, for the benefit of us mere mortals.

 

[Halifax]

PS when I say Tani is 'new', I mean as the tailor calling the shots and making decisions regarding styling (ie the finishing skills/polish that differentiates a good tailor from a decent tailor). I would expect that she grew up helping her mum in the studio and knows her way around a needle by now.

Stay tuned, my dress trouser review is pending...

 

[meister]



Hi Stylers,

As I am traveling to Bangkok and in the market for some clothing, I thought I might resurrect this thread. I have read of several stores along Sampeng lane who sell quality shirting material which can be taken for tailoring but not so much on suiting fabric. There is little to no mention of places where decent suiting fabric can be purchased. Is there a reason for this?

 

Old post but I got many good suiting fabrics in Sampeng Lane years ago when I travelled to BKK in the airlines and got stuff made.

 

[Halifax]

Old post but I got many good suiting fabrics in Sampeng Lane years ago when I travelled to BKK in the airlines and got stuff made.

Do you know which shops you used (name/number)? Or even which area?

 

[Halifax]

Dress Trousers

Material: 130s grey sharkskin, Vitale Barberis Canonico
Style: Dress pants to replace worn pair as well as match waistcoat and jacket (which I did not show Tanika), plain front, two hook and bar front closure, belt loops, tapered leg with lining, standard rise, slanted side pockets, zipper fly, two buttoned back pockets, uncuffed hem.

The style gives me the slim, neat look I was after and it fits comfortably around the waist and rear. I love the lining Tani used, which I did not specify, but I think it could have done with being a little longer as it doesn't quite make it to my knees.

I decided to go for the neat look of the hook and bar front fasteners but I retrospect, I think buttons would have been better suited. I'm also not sure of the use of elastic in the waistband. I can appreciate that it gives the trousers a nice fit, but to me it gives a cheapened look. As previously mentioned, the break isn't quite even on both legs.



External side view


External front view


External rear view


Internal rear view of the waistband


Internal view of the trouser rear


Internal rear view of trouser leg


Internal front view of trouser leg


Internal front view showing fly


Internal view of the fly stitiching


Right side of French fly tab


Wrong side of the French fly tab


Front side of the trouser seat


External view of the outseam


Internal view of trouser hem


External back pocket **** and closure button


External corner of back pocket ****


Right side of back pocket buttonhole


Back pocket turned inside out

Cheers,
HPH

 

[jweiht]

Just to be clear, I definitely didn't say that all western tailors are great - there are people claiming to be tailors all around the world. What iI did say, though, is that the best Thai tailors don't compare to the best Western. Wether you think that great tailors exist in Thailand is definitely a matter of by which standards you judge. In other words, what I'm saying is that you will never ever find a tailor in Thailand who's work can be remotely compared to that of a skilled western tailor (but at the same time you will find many western tailors doing just as crappy a job as their Thai counterparts). All that said; I think Asian tailoring is a great place to start out the venture into bespoke, since you'll learn from your mistakes, learn what suits you and what to ask for, which will make your first commission a lot more successful, should you one day choose to go all the way and commission something from a western tailor.

SKM, maybe my rushed reply sounded a little hostile but it wasn't intended or directed to you.

I'm just trying to say that everything should be put into perspective. The best/skill tailor in thailand or asia will never match the top of saville row, but the price and time difference is quite alot as well.

I would love to make a bespoke at a top tailor in London, but we simply do not have the time to do so. Therefore, we have to compromise and work within our limitations to find for one at this part of the world. We wish and hope all we want that the quality can rival that of the best tailors of the west, but that is not my aim. What I do want, is the finish jacket should at least gain some "attention" when I travel with it to the west.

In some ways, I do think we had some pretty good tailors here in Asia. I said we had, because there were some wicked tailors during the time of British colonisation, but I guess they have passed on by now. How much of that skill is handed down remains unclear.

 

[Halifax]

SKM, maybe my rushed reply sounded a little hostile but it wasn't intended or directed to you.

I'm just trying to say that everything should be put into perspective. The best/skill tailor in thailand or asia will never match the top of saville row, but the price and time difference is quite alot as well.

I would love to make a bespoke at a top tailor in London, but we simply do not have the time to do so. Therefore, we have to compromise and work within our limitations to find for one at this part of the world. We wish and hope all we want that the quality can rival that of the best tailors of the west, but that is not my aim. What I do want, is the finish jacket should at least gain some "attention" when I travel with it to the west.

In some ways, I do think we had some pretty good tailors here in Asia. I said we had, because there were some wicked tailors during the time of British colonisation, but I guess they have passed on by now. How much of that skill is handed down remains unclear.

JW,

Have you considered any tailors in Bangkok other than ToT, Tanika, Rajawongse, or Narin.

Cheers,
HPH

 

[jweiht]

JW,

Have you considered any tailors in Bangkok other than ToT, Tanika, Rajawongse, or Narin.

Cheers,
HPH

Hi,

I didn't want to waste time on so called tailors which are just measurers who take your size and pass it to a factory. Most of them may even share the same factory.

I may be interested to try ToT next and also Milan, but for shirts first. If the results on the suit is good, then I will also consider making a sport jacket or peacoat and another suit. Hopefully, it gets better along the way.

Tanika makes some nice ladies' coats as well.

 

[Sam Hober]



SKM, maybe my rushed reply sounded a little hostile but it wasn't intended or directed to you.

I'm just trying to say that everything should be put into perspective. The best/skill tailor in thailand or asia will never match the top of saville row, but the price and time difference is quite alot as well.

I would love to make a bespoke at a top tailor in London, but we simply do not have the time to do so. Therefore, we have to compromise and work within our limitations to find for one at this part of the world. We wish and hope all we want that the quality can rival that of the best tailors of the west, but that is not my aim. What I do want, is the finish jacket should at least gain some "attention" when I travel with it to the west.

In some ways, I do think we had some pretty good tailors here in Asia. I said we had, because there were some wicked tailors during the time of British colonisation, but I guess they have passed on by now. How much of that skill is handed down remains unclear.

It is true that overall the level of tailoring is currently not that high in Thailand but it is not correct that the skill will never match that of Saville row.

I live and work and Thailand and I see changes that you may not...

 

[Halifax]

Waistcoat

Material: 130s grey sharkskin, Vitale Barberis Canonico
Style: to match a jacket already owned, five button closure, pointed tip, lined-back with adjuster

I think the waistcoat fit is comfortable and looks good on me. There is pick stitching around the edges and the textured lining looks and feels great.

Apparent from the buttons not matching the intended jacket (which was a fault of my own), I quite happy. Once I get round to matching the jacket and waistcoat buttons, I'll post more pics of the complete outfit as intended.













Internal view of the waistcoat


External front view of the neck line (with visible pick stitching)


External rear view of the neckline


Back Adjuster


External view of the front


Internal view of the front


Internal pointed tip


Internal stitching of lining


Wrong Side of the buttonhole


Right side of the button hole


External of button, cross-stitched


Threaded button shank


Back of button stitch


External of pocket opening


View into pocket

 

[Halifax]

It is true that overall the level of tailoring is currently not that high in Thailand but it is not correct that the skill will never match that of Saville row.

I live and work and Thailand and I see changes that you may not...

SH,

I'd be very keen to hear your opinion on the matter of Thai tailoring; care to elaborate? Also, I realise the thread's title specifies Bangkok tailors, but does Chang Mai have something to offer that, in your opinion, is worth considering? It would further tempt me to head North next time I visit.

Cheers,
HPH

 

[meister]



Do you know which shops you used (name/number)? Or even which area?

I just used to get out of the tuk tuk and then walk down this duckboard lane into this like market place of cloth.

 

[Halifax]

I just used to get out of the tuk tuk and then walk down this duckboard lane into this like market place of cloth.

Fair enough. I guess I'll just have to walk around the top of Sampeng and Pahurat next time. Although, if you did this a few years ago, then perhaps this import tax on foreign textiles might not have been applicable.

I wonder what will happen regarding the tax if Yingluck (ie the Shinawatra regime) does get ousted. Perhaps someone will realise how much more competitive the tailors could be without it. It could even cause the local Thai textile industry to improve their quality. Or is this unrealistic dreaming...

PS I like how your story starts, like all stories from Bangkok. "I just used to get out of the tuk tuk... and then magically find myself in the Nana entertainment district" haha!