Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[TweedyProf]

my tailor keeps giving me grief about bringing in shirts with pleats on the back. she says it is much harder to alter and it increases cost (around $30/shirt).

what is the reason for that? does that make any sense or should i find a new tailor? she comes highly recommended via yelp if that means anything.

What are you asking her to do? I'm no tailor, but if it's just to take in the sides, I'm not sure why the pleats would be an issue (not darts, right?).

 

[ImTheGroom]

What are you asking her to do? I'm no tailor, but if it's just to take in the sides, I'm not sure why the pleats would be an issue (not darts, right?).

I get my shirts with pleats darted, and it usually costs $15 or so, at one of the city's top tailors. He only charges $35 to take in a vest at the sides (haven't had any shirts taken in at the sides) but I just can't imagine paying more than $30 for for any single alteration on a shirt. But every city is different. thefastlife, where do you live? Perhaps some member can also tell you their experiences with tailors in your area.

 

[Winston S.]



You could say the same about shoes. And shirts. Who notices the difference between bespoke savile row and an ordinary shirt that was altered? Few people I work with. But I know which I'd get if money was no object.

It's hard to wear a Timex if you've owned something nicer.

Sorry I wasn't clear in my last post, but what I was trying to address was your comment that divers were not appropriate for work. This is all subjective and would really depend on your work environment, but I don't think many people would care if you wore a diver or a formal watch in a "work" environment. In fact, I think most people think a Submariner is a "dressy" watch and only because it is a Rolex.

 

[Terpo]

You can get MTM shirts with custom darts for $59.

 

[jhcam8]



You could say the same about shoes. And shirts. Who notices the difference between bespoke savile row and an ordinary shirt that was altered? Few people I work with. But I know which I'd get if money was no object.

It's hard to wear a Timex if you've owned something nicer.

Depends where you work. A guy I know in the financial advice business wears a Tissot or a Tag rather than his Rolex at work because he does not want to put off the customers.

A baller in the same business may want to wear an expensive watch to show that he's in the money.

My opinion is that in most places a Sub (as in Rolex Sub) is fine.

What do others wear?

 

[Ich_Dien]



Depends where you work. A guy I know in the financial advice business wears a Tissot or a Tag rather than his Rolex at work because he does not want to put off the customers.

A very Anglo-Saxon thing, or should I say WASP.

Every other Italian here in Veneto sports a Rolex - to the extent that I often wonder whether they can all be real. Even the fruit and vegetable seller at the end of my street has a Rolex...obviously I don't go to him.

 

[jhcam8]



A very Anglo-Saxon thing, or should I say WASP.

Excellent observation.

 

[ridethecliche]

Sorry I wasn't clear in my last post, but what I was trying to address was your comment that divers were not appropriate for work. This is all subjective and would really depend on your work environment, but I don't think many people would care if you wore a diver or a formal watch in a "work" environment. In fact, I think most people think a Submariner is a "dressy" watch and only because it is a Rolex.

Sorry. I was thinking about 'loud' divers like my orange monster. I think that most people don't think they are dressy because they have HUGE faces and are not understated.

Depends where you work. A guy I know in the financial advice business wears a Tissot or a Tag rather than his Rolex at work because he does not want to put off the customers.

A baller in the same business may want to wear an expensive watch to show that he's in the money.

My opinion is that in most places a Sub (as in Rolex Sub) is fine.

What do others wear?

You're probably right, but I think the diver wouldn't quite work in more conservative places because it's too loud in size.

I wear an orange monster to work most days and also have a hamilton khaki automatic for the days when I'm more dressed up. I like the SOM because it's loud and that fits what I wear much better. However, I'm going to (hopefully) have a lot of interviews next year and I'm thinking of picking up something like this to wear with a suit:



This is my SOM:



And hamilton khaki auto chrono.

You can get MTM shirts with custom darts for $59.

Woah! Where?

Also, don't darts defeat the purpose of MTM?

 

[Terpo]

Sorry. I was thinking about 'loud' divers like my orange monster. I think that most people don't think they are dressy because they have HUGE faces and are not understated.

You're probably right, but I think the diver wouldn't quite work in more conservative places because it's too loud in size.

I wear an orange monster to work most days and also have a hamilton khaki automatic for the days when I'm more dressed up. I like the SOM because it's loud and that fits what I wear much better. However, I'm going to (hopefully) have a lot of interviews next year and I'm thinking of picking up something like this to wear with a suit:



This is my SOM:



And hamilton khaki auto chrono.




Woah! Where?

Also, don't darts defeat the purpose of MTM?

http://luxire.com/ There's a long Luxire thread on SF as well. As far as I understand darts can modify the shape of the shirt in 3D whereas specifying front and back width separately will not give the ability to taper increasingly towards the bottom of the shirt.

 

[thefastlife]



I get my shirts with pleats darted, and it usually costs $15 or so, at one of the city's top tailors.  He only charges $35 to take in a vest at the sides (haven't had any shirts taken in at the sides) but I just can't imagine paying more than $30 for for any single alteration on a shirt.  But every city is different.  thefastlife, where do you live?  Perhaps some member can also tell you their experiences with tailors in your area.

im in westchester county, ny.

the tailor says i "can't" just take in the sides without adding darts because then the back will look funny. so she said i'd need it taken in on the sides AND darts which would equate to around $30 - $35. she said pleats make it harder to add darts for some reason. something about having to extend the pleat. she's foreign and has a heavy accent.

she did just charge me $35 to take in my peacoat though so i don't know if she's unreasonable or what...but that doesn't seem too bad.

 

[ridethecliche]

Depends where you work. A guy I know in the financial advice business wears a Tissot or a Tag rather than his Rolex at work because he does not want to put off the customers.

A baller in the same business may want to wear an expensive watch to show that he's in the money.

My opinion is that in most places a Sub (as in Rolex Sub) is fine.

What do others wear?

A very Anglo-Saxon thing, or should I say WASP.

Every other Italian here in Veneto sports a Rolex - to the extent that I often wonder whether they can all be real. Even the fruit and vegetable seller at the end of my street has a Rolex...obviously I don't go to him.

I work for surgeons and the one that dresses well has a gorgeous IWC. The others have nice watches too, but I haven't geeked out at them as much because IWC's are just gorgeous and less ubiquitous.

I'd love a panerai if I had the money.

 

[jhcam8]



I'd love a panerai if I had the money.

When in Rome....

 

[ImTheGroom]

im in westchester county, ny.

the tailor says i "can't" just take in the sides without adding darts because then the back will look funny. so she said i'd need it taken in on the sides AND darts which would equate to around $30 - $35. she said pleats make it harder to add darts for some reason. something about having to extend the pleat. she's foreign and has a heavy accent.

she did just charge me $35 to take in my peacoat though so i don't know if she's unreasonable or what...but that doesn't seem too bad.

It sounds like she finds it diffcult/isn't very good at this particular alteration, and would prefer you give up on it. Or, maybe she knows better than any of us here.

 

[ridethecliche]

When in Rome....

Haha yeah. An uncle has a patek and a few rolexs and other stuff. I just couldn't even process.

I'm in no rush. I like nice things, but I like buying used too. I'm only 24 so have a long time left to acquire things. To be honest, the panerai dial with the encasing isn't my favorite. I do love vintage omega's though. They're not super pricey either (relatively speaking) though I'm sure most require some amount of work.

 

[Veremund]



im in westchester county, ny. the tailor says i "can't" just take in the sides without adding darts because then the back will look funny. so she said i'd need it taken in on the sides AND darts which would equate to around $30 - $35. she said pleats make it harder to add darts for some reason. something about having to extend the pleat.

She's FOS and taking you for a ride. Find a new tailor.