Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[Darkside]

I'm planning to get my second MTM suit started this weekend. It's going to be a classic navy (maybe slightly lighter shade), but I can't decide if I should get a ticket pocket or not. I planning to get two pairs of pants: one cuffed, the other plain (both flat front). The different pants would make it seem like two suits. But the ticket pocket on the jacket kind of prevents that. What do you guys think?

Don't get a ticket pocket.

 

[EUtroll]

I'm planning to get my second MTM suit started this weekend. It's going to be a classic navy (maybe slightly lighter shade), but I can't decide if I should get a ticket pocket or not. I planning to get two pairs of pants: one cuffed, the other plain (both flat front). The different pants would make it seem like two suits. But the ticket pocket on the jacket kind of prevents that. What do you guys think?

Simple answer, most will not even think about it That said, I got a ticket pocket on my last mtm and was sceptical but I love it. Fun with some alternative details on different pieces.

 

[BchBum11511]

Don't get a ticket pocket.

For the reason I stated, or another?

Simple answer, most will not even think about it That said, I got a ticket pocket on my last mtm and was sceptical but I love it. Fun with some alternative details on different pieces.

That's kind of what I was thinking. I got one the last time around and like it. Makes it harder not to get one this time

 

[Isolation]

Can I use this suit jacket in a casual setting together with some chinos, dress shirt and oxfords or is it totally fashion faux pas?
I am travelling to university in a week, and it could be difficult to fit a whole suit and a jacket inside my luggage, so I am thinking of using the suit jacket as a jacket instead.

It'd be absolutely fine. It's basically a blazer suit.

 

[erikrw]

Hi guys, I am new to classic menswear. I bought a suit off the rack but asked them to shorten the sleeves, considering what I have read about proper suit fit. I suggested 2 cm (0.8") and the salesman said that's the most he would recommend shortening it (he'd prefer 1.5 cm).

After I got it back 2 cm (0.8") shorter from the in-house alteration, I still think the sleeves are too long. So I took it to a tailor to ask his opinion and he said he'd like to make money, but if I shorten the sleeves any more, I'll ruin the suit. What do you think?



(The trousers are getting altered at the tailor; hence the jeans)

As per this post http://www.styleforum.net/t/371944/...e-length-for-a-sport-coat-blazer#post_6780667 I have left out the shirt sleeve because the jacket sleeve should match my arms rather than the particular shirt I'm wearing today. But to get "a half-inch of linen" showing, I basically cannot button the shirt cuff, or it will hang shorter than the jacket sleeve and be hidden.

 

[breakaway01]

Hi guys, I am new to classic menswear. I bought a suit off the rack but asked them to shorten the sleeves, considering what I have read about proper suit fit. I suggested 2 cm (0.8") and the salesman said that's the most he would recommend shortening it (he'd prefer 1.5 cm).

After I got it back 2 cm (0.8") shorter from the in-house alteration, I still think the sleeves are too long. So I took it to a tailor to ask his opinion and he said he'd like to make money, but if I shorten the sleeves any more, I'll ruin the suit. What do you think?

You're right--your jacket sleeves are still too long. I don't know what your tailor is talking about when he says that you'll ruin the suit, unless it's cotton. The extra material should be folded under so that you'll be able to reverse the sleeve alteration, should you decide to lengthen the sleeves again. Is it because you have working sleeve buttons, so that the last button is too close to the end of the sleeve if you shorten more?

I like the end of my shirt cuff to rest at the base of my thumb when buttoned i.e. where you jacket is ending up now. I then have the jacket sleeve shortened enough to have a bit of shirt cuff showing.

 

[Koala-T]

Dingus, I've seen plenty of respected posters in the WAYWRN CM thread repurposing their suit jackets on some occasions. Now most of the time, they are textured suits to begin with, but that is a solid navy jacket with brown buttons. The weave may be suit-like, but you'll get away with it, and no one will be the wiser, unless they are one of us (and even then it's questionable).

 

[ter1413]



Hi guys, I am new to classic menswear. I bought a suit off the rack but asked them to shorten the sleeves, considering what I have read about proper suit fit. I suggested 2 cm (0.8") and the salesman said that's the most he would recommend shortening it (he'd prefer 1.5 cm). After I got it back 2 cm (0.8") shorter from the in-house alteration, I still think the sleeves are too long. So I took it to a tailor to ask his opinion and he said he'd like to make money, but if I shorten the sleeves any more, I'll ruin the suit. What do you think? (The trousers are getting altered at the tailor; hence the jeans) As per this post http://www.styleforum.net/t/371944/...e-length-for-a-sport-coat-blazer#post_6780667 I have left out the shirt sleeve because the jacket sleeve should match my arms rather than the particular shirt I'm wearing today. But to get "a half-inch of linen" showing, I basically cannot button the shirt cuff, or it will hang shorter than the jacket sleeve and be hidden.

You should take a picture with a shirt on.

 

[erikrw]

You're right--your jacket sleeves are still too long. I don't know what your tailor is talking about when he says that you'll ruin the suit, unless it's cotton. The extra material should be folded under so that you'll be able to reverse the sleeve alteration, should you decide to lengthen the sleeves again. Is it because you have working sleeve buttons, so that the last button is too close to the end of the sleeve if you shorten more?

By ruin I think he just meant it would look bad. It doesn't have working sleeve buttons. However, to shorten the sleeve more, the lowest button would have to be moved.

You should take a picture with a shirt on.

The shirt wouldn't be visible. However, here are some more pics with shirt:



The left column uses the tight buttoning of the shirt sleeve, and the right column of the picture uses the loose buttoning. I think the tight buttoning looks better, but then there's no space for a watch, not even a thin one.

In the lower left, I have pulled up the jacket sleeve 3 cm (1.2") to reveal a bit of shirt cuff. In the lower right pic the loose cuff hangs a bit lower, and here I have pulled the jacket sleeve up 2 cm (0.8").

 

[breakaway01]

Moving a non working buttonhole is very straightforward. I'd find another tailor if your current tailor is giving you grief over shortening what is obviously an overly long jacket sleeve.
As for your shirt, personally I'd have the cuff button moved so that you're in between the two pictures. The narrower option looks too narrow to me.

 

[ter1413]



By ruin I think he just meant it would look bad. It doesn't have working sleeve buttons. However, to shorten the sleeve more, the lowest button would have to be moved. The shirt wouldn't be visible. However, here are some more pics with shirt: The left column uses the tight buttoning of the shirt sleeve, and the right column of the picture uses the loose buttoning. I think the tight buttoning looks better, but then there's no space for a watch, not even a thin one. In the lower left, I have pulled up the jacket sleeve 3 cm (1.2") to reveal a bit of shirt cuff. In the lower right pic the loose cuff hangs a bit lower, and here I have pulled the jacket sleeve up 2 cm (0.8").

See, with the pics, you can get proper advice! I also agree that a middle point would be best for your shirt button. As for the jacket, it looks ok. I prefer to show cuff closer to the right pic. Even a little more. But that can just be the pic.

 

[erikrw]

Moving a non working buttonhole is very straightforward. I'd find another tailor if your current tailor is giving you grief over shortening what is obviously an overly long jacket sleeve.
As for your shirt, personally I'd have the cuff button moved so that you're in between the two pictures. The narrower option looks too narrow to me.

See, with the pics, you can get proper advice!

I also agree that a middle point would be best for your shirt button.
As for the jacket, it looks ok. I prefer to show cuff closer to the right pic. Even a little more. But that can just be the pic.

Thanks guys! I'll try another tailor, and also look at the cuff fit of my shirts.

 

[theplayerking]

Hi guys, I am new to classic menswear. I bought a suit off the rack but asked them to shorten the sleeves, considering what I have read about proper suit fit. I suggested 2 cm (0.8") and the salesman said that's the most he would recommend shortening it (he'd prefer 1.5 cm).

After I got it back 2 cm (0.8") shorter from the in-house alteration, I still think the sleeves are too long. So I took it to a tailor to ask his opinion and he said he'd like to make money, but if I shorten the sleeves any more, I'll ruin the suit. What do you think?



(The trousers are getting altered at the tailor; hence the jeans)

As per this post http://www.styleforum.net/t/371944/...e-length-for-a-sport-coat-blazer#post_6780667 I have left out the shirt sleeve because the jacket sleeve should match my arms rather than the particular shirt I'm wearing today. But to get "a half-inch of linen" showing, I basically cannot button the shirt cuff, or it will hang shorter than the jacket sleeve and be hidden.

That sleeve is too long, shirt or no shirt. This is a frequent frustration I have with American alterations tailors. I think many of them were trained not to show any cuff at all. I sometimes have to argue with them to get them to make my sleeves high enough. (I personally prefer half and inch of cuff.) In the end it’s your jacket and you’re paying them to get it the way you want it.

 

[erikrw]

That sleeve is too long, shirt or no shirt. This is a frequent frustration I have with American alterations tailors. I think many of them were trained not to show any cuff at all. I sometimes have to argue with them to get them to make my sleeves high enough. (I personally prefer half and inch of cuff.) In the end it’s your jacket and you’re paying them to get it the way you want it.

This is also what surprised me (here in Denmark): Both the salesman and the unrelated (alteration) tailor wanted the sleeve to be pretty long. So I see having them properly shortened as a way to stand out positively. I just hope it will not end up as standing out negatively, if everyone else perhaps shows no shift cuff! (I'm starting a job at a consulting firm next month).

By the way, my tailor's reason for not shortening further was that when I extend my arms forward, I will show plenty of cuff. But I think it's much better to show a little cuff at rest and then plenty plus that little extra bit when extending my arms fully forward.

 

[Veremund]

First off all, your shirt sleeves have to fit right. If all of your shirts have different sleeve lengths and cuff sizes, you're jacket sleeves will never look right. All your shirt sleeves need to end at the smallest part of your wrist, and your jacket sleeves 1 cm above that. Whenever you try on a new jacket, always wear your best fitting shirt.