Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[YRR92]

So, peak lapels on a sportcoat is bad, can anyone give me a quick and dirty rundown as to why this doesn't work? I've been told it's because they're very formal, but I've been told the same thing about single button coats and double vents, but those are okay on sportcoats?

As with much, it comes down in some ways to precedent.

Double vents don't affect formality. Single buttons on "country" clothes aren't unheard of. They're certainly a rakish touch, and rakish tailoring is sometimes well suited to clothes you wear on less-conservative occasions (ie, not business). I think Huntsman and Rubinacci both refuse to cut a two-button -- though Rubi's 3s all seem to roll.

I actually don't worry too much about peak lapels on sport coats. On a hefty tweed, or something with patch pockets? Perhaps not. On a soft, light cashmere blend, in a subtle check? I think they're a bit much, but not terrible taste. More of a sin than deploying a white linen square with a blue poplin shirt, better than wearing double monks with one strap undone.

Edit: peak lapels are a lot more noticeable than a one button jacket, too.

 

[ImTheGroom]

So, peak lapels on a sportcoat is bad, can anyone give me a quick and dirty rundown as to why this doesn't work? I've been told it's because they're very formal, but I've been told the same thing about single button coats and double vents, but those are okay on sportcoats?

I was trying to answer this question, with some examples, but realized I needed a better definition of the difference between a sport coat and a blazer. What is the difference? I could look at a jacket and tell you immediately if I felt it was a blazer or a sport coat, but for the life of me, I could not explain why!

 

[TM79]



Hah. We should get a boston gang together!


Edit: I saw one of vox's pictures and I was like woah that's powderhouse. Saw another... That's near inman!

I'd be down for a Boston meet up!

I'm in Central Square so I can get to most places pretty easily, especially because I work in DTX right near South Station.

 

[plainnerd]

Thanks for the response, I'm going to get a wintery sport coat made up and I'm still trying to figure out the little details.

 

[thefastlife]



Moths don't like light, so actually storing your clothes in a light place is a good defence. As is wearing everything regularly, making sure everything gets taken out and used once in a while. Keeping all your clothes clean will also help, so make sure everything gets dry cleaned once a year, and brush off dirt, hairs etc, after each use. Having too many clothes, crammed in a dark closet, with a couple of old sports coats at the back that haven't seen the light of day in years, is ideal for breeding moths. Garment bags are not airtight and moths can find their way in, so I would not rely on them myself. Cedar also looses potency over time - you can refresh it with cedar essential oil to get the smell back. Same goes for lavender.

The closet below, that of Voxsartoria, is a good example. Light, airy, not overcrowded, and no doubt all the clothes get taken out and worn regularly, and are kept clean. Everything ship shape.

thanks for the insight but thats just not happening atm LOL. i can try and take my suits out and bang em around every so often but i ordered garment bags, cedar, etc. to try and prevent as well.

 

[Onur Arslan]

Does anyone know anything about Green George Shoes ?

 

[forbritisheyes]

Please

It's time sensitive

I have a chance to purchase a Mr. Ned sport coat that would fit me well according to measurements after bringing in the waist a tiny bit. It's a tan herringbone. I also am thinking of purchasing a J Crew Ludlow sport coat in cream that fits me very well as well(tried it in store), but it will need to be let out a pinch in the waist - some creasing. Which one should I purchase? Mr. Ned is known to do a moderately suppressed look, which is what I want and no more. The J Crew is roughly $75-100. THe Mr. Ned is multiple times more. I like the styling of the Mr. Ned(wider lapels), but the J Crew one is less costly. Though, on the Ned, I may have to cut the coat 1" in length to make it appear as if it had a lower button stance; its buttoning point is right where I want it - barely above my navel.

 

[YRR92]

Please

It's time sensitive

I have a chance to purchase a Mr. Ned sport coat that would fit me well according to measurements after bringing in the waist a tiny bit. It's a tan herringbone. I also am thinking of purchasing a J Crew Ludlow sport coat in cream that fits me very well as well(tried it in store), but it will need to be let out a pinch in the waist - some creasing. Which one should I purchase? Mr. Ned is known to do a moderately suppressed look, which is what I want and no more. The J Crew is roughly $75-100. THe Mr. Ned is multiple times more. I like the styling of the Mr. Ned(wider lapels), but the J Crew one is less costly. Though, on the Ned, I may have to cut the coat 1" in length to make it appear as if it had a lower button stance; its buttoning point is right where I want it - barely above my navel.

First of all, screwing with the hem of the coat won't do anything to the button stance. That's staying where it is. If the coat is an inch too long for you, then buying it might be a mistake. If it's the right length, all changing the length will do is mess with the length.

If you're having the waist altered, than it doesn't matter what Ned cuts. You're having the waist altered.

I don't like "baby's first lapel" on the J. Crew coats I've seen. If you like the Ned one better, aren't you probably going to wear it long enough that it stops mattering what you paid for it?

 

[forbritisheyes]

First of all, screwing with the hem of the coat won't do anything to the button stance. That's staying where it is. If the coat is an inch too long for you, then buying it might be a mistake. If it's the right length, all changing the length will do is mess with the length.

If you're having the waist altered, than it doesn't matter what Ned cuts. You're having the waist altered.

I don't like "baby's first lapel" on the J. Crew coats I've seen. If you like the Ned one better, aren't you probably going to wear it long enough that it stops mattering what you paid for it?

I'm aware of all you said but didn't take into account the last one

2.5" lapels are thin. I guess the big factor was that I've tried Ludlow coats on instore, and know that the Ned is a complete gamble in fit, especially sleeve pitch.

If I buy the Ned, I want to chop the coat an 1" to make the perception the button stance is lower. I know that it won't physically - which is exactly why I said that the buttoning point is exactly where I like it to be on my navel. I just want to proportions to be different.

It's good that Ned's is moderately suppressed to begin with because if it were like an 1818 Madison, it'd take a lot more work and $ to suppress, presuming I need work on the waist to begin with. It may not need any.

This still hasn't swayed my opinion much though, because Fitz lapels are only 2.75", barely larger than that of J Crew's.

 

[sean anon]

This still hasn't swayed my opinion much though, because Fitz lapels are only 2.75", barely larger than that of J Crew's.

I just measured my Fitz and the lapels are a touch bigger than 3"

The Ludow is too slim for me. I need something between Fitz and about 3.5"

 

[forbritisheyes]

I just measured my Fitz and the lapels are a touch bigger than 3"

The Ludow is too slim for me. I need something between Fitz and about 3.5"

Really? Odd. I got that info from someone I trust on another forum(He who shall not be named). My mistake. Regents must be 3.5" then. Thanks for the info, man.

 

[sean anon]

Really? Odd. I got that info from someone I trust on another forum(He who shall not be named). My mistake. Regents must be 3.5" then. Thanks for the info, man.

I thrifted mine so it is possible they have changed but I doubt it as I have tried on new ones too. I think <3 would be too trendy for BB. The Ludlow was noticeably thin on me (I weight 195 pounds)

 

[forbritisheyes]

I thrifted mine so it is possible they have changed but I doubt it as I have tried on new ones too. I think <3 would be too trendy for BB. The Ludlow was noticeably thin on me (I weight 195 pounds)

I have a couple suits & sport coats from BB so I know where you're coming from. I think they changed it slightly, because mine seem to be diff from one year to the other. only slightly. I'm 6'1" @ 185. Thanks mate.

 

[losrockets]

Does anybody have suggestions for a sub-$250 wool windowpane jacket? I don't have anything in wool with patch pockets or w/ a 3-roll-2 button stance so I'd love to have both features but willing to make some compromise as long as I can find something within my budget. I was initially thinking something w/ a navy ground and white windowpane, like this Beckett & Robb one featured on the From Squalor to Baller blog today:

but I couldn't find anything in exactly this style within my budget. I want a darker base so I can wear light trousers with it, and if it's casual enough, denim. I came across this jacket from Cantarelli on Yoox, it's $250 after the code so it's at the top of my budget. It's also a bit more complex than I initially wanted, with brown windowpaning, and a blueish gray base that has a plaid pattern to it.



But I haven't found anything better since. Do y'all have any alternatives? Opinions on this particular item?
Thanks!

 

[YRR92]

If I buy the Ned, I want to chop the coat an 1" to make the perception the button stance is lower. I know that it won't physically - which is exactly why I said that the buttoning point is exactly where I like it to be on my navel. I just want to proportions to be different.

This will just look bad. You will end up with a jacket that's too short, or the pockets will seem too low. The perception will be that there's something off with your coat.

Again, the amount of taper cut into a coat doesn't matter if you're having the waist altered. Sure, Ned seems to get more of a tapered jacket than, say, J. Press. But if he cut that jacket from somebody with two inches less in the drop than you, then the coat is not going to be particularly tapered.